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Published: September 11th 2008
Ho ho ho. Another gorgeous day in Japan. Seriously, we have had the most perfect weather imaginable! Granted it's a bit hot, but the sunshine is awesome. I'm getting a tan, for goodness sake. Everything I read said this was the beginning of the rainy season, but uh-huh. Dripping w/sweat season, maybe but no rain since the first day. 😊
This was another group tour day for me. Rachel's presentation was this afternoon, so it was just as good for me to be occupied elsewhere. Had all my stuff ready to go & they checked out when they got up. The hotel very graciously held our luggage for us all day...actually, each hotel we've been at has held it for us. Thank goodness for that! Hauling around our big ol' luggage everywhere would be a disaster...bad enough when we had to jet through the subway...but more on that in a minute....or ten.
I went without breakfast yesterday and didn't want to repeat the process today. So, I headed down into the mall (which our hotel was attached to...also direct connection to the subway station...loving the convenience factor!) to find some food. Of course, it was too early for most
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, Kamakura
Donated casks of sake for Shinto wedding ceremonies. Don't steal, they're empty!places, but the mini-mart was open so I got onigiri, oranges & Blue Hawaii Pepsi (pineapple)...ok, the last one isn't an "authentic" Japanese item, but I figured it was close enough. With my typical working person's meal-on-the-go in my hand, I ventured down into the subway station.
See, we've all been waking up at ungodly hours. Doesn't matter when we go to sleep, one or more of us will wake up and that's all she wrote for all us. (For the record, it is NEVER me who wakes up first. I also seem to be the only one who can manage to go back to sleep afterwards. What can I say? I love my sleep and my sleep loves me.) This morning, Takako called us at 7:00 a.m. to confirm a meeting place w/Rachel. I answered the phone, which was funny because I was sound asleep and when she said "Rachel?" I was like, "yep." Then she says, this is Takako. I was like, "howdy" thinking she was introducing herself. Then she launches into these plans I know nothing about and I was finally like...oh, the other Rachel. So, I got to wake everyone up and we were off
and running on the day. Since it was soooo early, that's why I had time to go get food. While I was in the mall, I started thinking how we all needed to exchange our Japan Rail pass vouchers for the actual JR pass. I wanted to see how late the office was open. So, my brilliant plan was get food, take subway to Yokohama station (where there is a JR office), get information, take subway back to my station, be at tour meeting place by 8:45. No prob, right?
Au contraire, mon frere. Turns out, this is exactly their business rush hour time...who knew commuter trains would be packed before 9:00 a.m.? As far as I know, hat's not the case anywhere else in the world... Anyway, it was AWESOME! I totally traveled on the trains that are so jam-packed that the subway police literally shove people on so the doors will shut! There were tons of teens in school uniforms, business men, young working women w/wet hair...it seriously played like a scene out of manga. For being oblivious and half-awake, I did pretty good. Didn't get trampled or block anybody's path. I will say, even with the
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, Kamakura
Wishes for a good future...lots were to do good on college entry exams! shoe-horning techniques it is remains quiet and orderly and people still manage not to look at each other...very politely. Made it to the other station, found the office (which wasn't even open, dammit!) and made it to my bus w/three minutes to spare. Had a great interaction with a toddler on the train back...he was an inch and a half away...we made real good friends. 😊
Today's destination was Kamakura, another ancient capital of Japan. If you are wondering why there are so many capitals (every place we've been so far is one), I'll tell you: it's because the capital used to move when there was a new emperor. This practice ended with Edo. Oh, as a disclaimer before I forget: there are factual inaccuracies w/yesterday's post. I am taking in copious amounts of information very quickly. I'm pretty sure I have mixed up some of my facts. However, I am only in create mode, no editing! So, just be aware that I was given the correct info & am simply unable to accurately render it. 😊 If anyone can point out the errors, I'll give you a treat. ><
So, back to Kamakura. It is a sleepy
little place deep in the "mountains" (as Yoshi says: they're not the Rockies, but they're our mountains) south of Yokohama. The roadway was narrow and winding & I was quite happy not to be driving. I met up again with some of the folks from yesterday. My two favorite were Glenda and Robert, both from the UK (but not together). The three of us wandered around together most of the day. It was great fun and there are tons of photos here from our stops. The following three paragraphs are simple info about where we went. Feel free to skip. Commentary after. 😊
Stop 1: Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine.
Founded at its present location by Yoritomo Minamoto in 1180, it remains one of the most popular shrines in the Kanto region. The present buildings date from 1828. The main hall at the top of the stairs affords a magnificent view of Kamakura along Wakamiya Oji street.
Stop 2: Hase Kannon.
Hase Temple is a temple of the Jodo sect that is most famous for its statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. The statue shows Kannon with eleven heads, each representing a characteristic of the goddess. The 9.18 meter
tall, gilded wooden statue is regarded as the largest wooden sculpture in Japan, and can be viewed in the temple's main building.
Stop 3: LUNCH!
In an Italian restaurante, no less. It was okay food, but it slays me that they took us to very un-Japanese places for lunch both days. Where's my sushi, dammit?!? Anyway, this place was cute and our tour completely filled the building.
Stop 4: Daibutsu (Great Image of Buddha).
Designated a National Treasure, it is Japan's largest Buddhist image after Todai-ji's in Nara. The present statue is the second at the site. The original image, carved from wood in 1243, was destroyed by a storm five years later. The present sculpture was cast in bronze around 1252.
Basically, we visited shrines and temples today. I feel very enlightened. I learned quite a bit about Buddhism and Shintoism. Actually, I learned more about the rituals surrounding both, but it was quite interesting. We all purified ourselves with water before going in...left hand, right hand, lips & clean the ladle...next! Gave a donation and lit incense and breathed it in (w/the foreigners behind me going on about cargenogenic properties, etc, give me a break!)
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, Kamakura
Robert & Glenda...I think she was trying to get the fish's attention...not quite sure! and met some traveling monks. Gave a donation and clapped my hands and bowed. Listened to the shinto priest singing. Gave a donation and wrote a wish for happiness in this life. I don't know the meaing behind a lot of what I did (and started to get the feeling that there's so many rituals, 'cause each one's got a "donation" attached to it!) but the actions were fun to do, interesting, and a window into a world and beliefs that are completely foreign to me. I could live like this, traveling and learning and experiencing, forever. Which, in fact, would probably be my best bet for nirvana.
The Daibutsu was phenomenal. Seriously. Just as impressive as in the pictures. Out in the middle of a park, with the clear blue sky behind and tons of people quietly milling about, it was a very zen moment. Quite mind-boggling, in fact. Took some photos and wandered around. Got to the back of the statue and saw two windows!! Continued around and saw a line...to get inside the Buddha! Who could pass that up? I had no idea that was even possible. So, dragging Glenda behind me (apparently she could pass
Kamakura
Yummy rice balls. it up, but I was having none of that!) I ventured into the Buddha. So, it was small and hot and smelled a bit funny (and the stairway was closed so my planned photo-op was scratched) but wowzee...I have been in the belly of the Buddha...and come out again completely refreshed.
We got time enough to wander at each location and even got to wander around some of Kamakura. We hit the streets running. I didn't buy anything except rice balls in soy sauce on a stick (yum, yum, yum, yummy...I want some more!) but it was great fun to look around. Already, I'm seeing the pattern in the tourist crap and getting an idea of price range. I'll probably wait until Tokyo to buy stuff but it never hurts to look around.
Got back to Yokohama around 4:30 and rushed to meet the girls. We needed to trade our JR tickets and get on a train to Kyoto. Takako told us to take a cab to a specific station, which happened to be across the street (only the first of many missteps!). Cabbies never cease to amaze me! He drove us the two minutes and took our
Kamakura
In love with signs and names. money. Anyways, we go to the JR office and they say, "oh, we don't exchange these here...you need to go to Yokohama station" (where I was this morning for fact finding, mind you...but how could I argue w/the native? Only one of the many reasons I enjoy traveling alone! 😉 kidding, but I digress...) We drag our luggage through the station, hop a train for Yokohama station. So, we get there, find a JR office and try again. "Oh, we don't do that here. You need to go to the main office." So, we walk (in the midst of evening rush hour, mind you!) through the station looking for the "main" office. I'm dragging two pieces of rolling luggage, Samia has a big ol' backpack, purse & rolling luggage, Rachel has purse, three bags, and rolling luggage. We were doing okay with escalators but ended up a place where there was just stairs...five steps to be precise. This stops us in our tracks. What to do? (are you getting that this is another "travel alone good" thing?) So, I offer to find the office and make sure we don't all waste time and effort. It was crazy. I followed the
Kamakura
I own this street, baby! labyrinthine passages to yet another JR ticket office. Nope, still not right. At this point, I'm freaking out. It was my idea to buy these damn things & I left my stuff and the only people I know here somewhere in the bowels of the station. This young woman sees the panic in my eyes and offers to take me to the right place..."it's not too far away" she says. Ah, the kindnesses of strangers. Arigato gozaimasu!
I get to the travel center & it's like the DMV! Different windows for different questions & everyone has to take a number! I get a number and a form and start waiting...sweating like mad from the running (and the nerves) and start to think about the two I left behind. Anyways, I ask how long the wait will be and am told 15 minutes. I think...maybe it's possible to haul ass back, get the girls and the stuff, and make it back in time. I take off running. Made a couple wrong turns (the funniest of which was taking the escalator instead of the stairs and passing right over the floor I needed...kinda like the Central Library in Seattle!) but eventually
Kamakura
Amish Cooking? Really?!? I wish our lunch had been here. got to them. Saw the panic in their eyes and started comforting sounds while hauling the luggage up the stairs. Told them we needed to jet and to yell if they lost sight of me. With that, we started another mad dash through the station. It was so much easier mentally & harder physically the second time around. Still, we got back to the DMV, I mean, the JR Center and they were on the number directly before mine. Cool, right? So, sweat streaming off me all over, out of breath and flushed, with our luggage stashed in a corner we exchanged our tickets. The guy was a hoot. He was incredibly methodical. Did nothing rushed, painstakingly checked our passports, the form and our vouchers. Granted, he was doing three at a time, but oiy! It took forever.
Finally finished and asked for a ticket to Kyoto. No problem, we're told. Here you go. Which track, we ask? Oh, you need to get to Shin-Yokohama station...that's where the Kyoto train leaves from. I kinda wanted to cry, I tell ya. So, we dragged everything back through the station to catch the train to the other station to catch the
Kamakura
Our groovy times tour bus. (Actually took this picture to remember what ours looks like...ah, short term memory!) other train. Running again. By this time we're on the same page & I fully understand that stairs are not an option. We get to the massive staircase leading to the track we need. I look around & see a likely door with buttons outside. An elevator! I look behind me & meet Samia's eyes...I nod that direction & she gets it. We rush over w/out delay, hit the button, the door swings open and...it's a handicap accessible bathroom. I am SO NOT KIDDING! It really looked like an elevator. We were a bit stumped after that but laughing so that was good. While we were standing to the side trying to suss out a sign for elevator or escalator, an attractively dressed older Japanese couple did the EXACT same thing! They were as stumped as we were. Boy oh boy were we ROTFLOL which felt nice. In the end, I decided we'd just go up the stairs and started hauling the luggage up. Rachel struggled with hers but was making an admirable effort. Not even halfway up the stairs, a nice young couple stopped and helped her (well, the male half of the couple helped...the female was directing...like we
Hase Kannon, Kamakura
Signs. I want to know what the Japanese really says! do).
Got to the platform. Tried to wait for the direct train, but six trains came and all were the transfer needed one. Eventually, we got on that one & girded ourselves for the next ordeal. Got off the train at the next station and realized the train we needed was directly in front of us. After that, everything worked in our favor. Got to Shin-Yokohama, found our track & the train was there. We had made it! I never felt so relieved and thankful...and sweaty and keyed up. 😊
The ride to Kyoto was about two hours. We got food from the mobile cart (felt a bit like Harry Potter on the Hogwarts Express except I ordered a bento & Samia got salami-flavored Pringles) and settled in. We made it to Kyoto without incident and our hotel was accessible from the station...again! We were a person short so we stayed the three of us again. To accommodate that, they put us in a four bed business suite which was amazing! Two flat screen tvs, huge bathroom with the most amazing shower I've ever been in (water came from above, straight on and below...unbelievable!) and a great view.
It was so good to be in the next place. So, my next report will be from Kyoto. Or, Nara. Or, Osaka. We don't quite know what we're doing tomorrow. And that's ok! 😊
In the end this was a very eventful day of sightseeing and traveling. I feel satisfaction with both. And, now more than ever, I am determined to come back here. I am almost completely conversant with the train system and the subway. Ergo, I can go anywhere in the country that I want to! Go me!!
Luv,
Rae
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Erica
non-member comment
Travel writing?
Awesome post! Encapsulates what I love and dread about travelling. Rachel, you are a great writer. Have you considered travel writing.....?