Macaroons


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September 9th 2008
Published: September 9th 2008
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The best part about the Tour Eiffel was a little hairless girl in a pink dress named Gracie. Gracie was just learing to walk, and was toddling about the big grassy expanse (Parc du Champ de Mars) in front of the Tower. Every tourist and local sunbather would stop and stare in adoring admiration, crying out in concern when she plopped onto her diapered rump. Some Chinese tourists even stopped and took pictures. I don't think Gracie's mom liked that too much.
Not that the Eiffel Tower is at all boring. Up close it looks like spider-webby hammocks stretched up to a point, with a lazy red spider sliding up and down. I actually postponed my ascention in the red elevator until later tonight. True, my planning for today was subpar. First on the agenda for today was the Hotel Des Invalides, and the gilded Dome Church (which is a gorgeous sight from my apartment window). I walked down, for my daily exercise, and it was a little farther than it looked on the map, but at least it was a perfect, cloudless day outside. When I arrived at Les Invalides (I have a picture of me sitting on where the drawbridge used to cross the moat!!), I found out that on tuesdays, youths (did you say "utes"?) get in for free after 5:30 pm. And if you know me, you know I can't pass up free. So I figured I'd just come back after 5:30. I made my way over to the Tour Eiffel, hoping on the way to find the famous macaroons Ashley was raving about. I took Rue St. Dominique towards the Tower, stopping to look into every patisserie I passed. Unfortunately, every-other building had a window full of pastries, and I didn't know the name of the store I was looking for.
Happening upon one of the cutest window displays yet (they had tiny candy Snow Whites, and seven dwarves!), I saw a vast assortment of macaroons, and knew this had to be the place. Now, pre-France, I thought macaroons were a coconut-sweetened little cookie that Jewish people ate during Passover. I was wrong. They're really a decadent little sandwich cookie, with fluffy wafer outsides, and fudgy creme insides, available in many exquisite flavors like cassis, pistachio, and chocolate orange. I bought four mini-sized cookies, which the shop woman (who ressembled Gepetto's wife) wrapped up in a paper packet, tied with a string handle. I ripped open the package as soon as I left the shop, instantly dismayed that I'd ruined her art. The macaroons were truly a masterpiece. After walking a couple steps, munching on a chocolate macaroon, I glanced across the street and saw a shop called, "Chocolate & Macaroons". D'oh. The black chalkboard list on the outside listed even more flavors of macaroons available at this shop, including chocolat sel, which was not available at the place I had just left, and which was highly recommended to me. I knew this was the real place, and heavy-heartedly I went right in to buy more macaroons.
Too bad the first ones were better, but at least I know now. It is amazing what a little salt will do for a sweet, though. Delicieuse.
A few macaroons later, I was at the foot of the Tour Eiffel, contemplating my plan of action. Knowing full well that I would have to stick around until 5:30 for free admission into Les Invalides, I remembered last night's gaudy display of lights on the Eiffel Tower. From my room, I could see the Tower shimmer and sparkle, like Christmas lights stuck on one setting of the pattern, or a billion tiny ships in desperate need of aid. I was surprised there weren't peopl seizing on the streets! Then in an hour, the flashing white lights stopped, and the Tower glowed a steady, haunting blue. It was incredible! So, I decided that if I was going to come back anyway, I may as well climb the Tower at night, and be encompassed by the light show. I spent a few hours sunbathing, doing the NYT crossword (area in a grand tour, 6 letters, starting with E?), and headed back home (I still haven't gotten used to the swirling vortex of stairs!). I had a lovely salade du chevre chaud for lunch. Ooh, and a steak frites last night. Hopefully I don't fall asleep, and make it back to top the Tower.

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9th September 2008

Gepetto
Jackie: It's too long since you've seen Pinoccio: Gepetto didn't HAVE a wife: just a cat and a goldfish (at least in the cartoon). And, of course, a little wooden boy, later on. Love, your "stickler-for-historical-accuracy" Dad
10th September 2008

Thanks! I suppose I should have said, "what gepetto's wife WOULD have looked like, had he had one. Can you imagine what she would look like?

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