Elevation

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Blinding salt plains, stunning mountain ranges, beautiful frozen lakes, dust clouds, freezing nights, sweltering days, amazing wildlife, prehistoric cactuses, fossilised reefs, vehicle breakdowns, altitude sickness, no roads and basic amenities. These are the words I can only use to describe the most stunning adventure that I have just taken across the dreamy Bolivian desert.

Back in San Pedro De Atacama (Chile) ten of us decided to hire two 4x4 Jeeps to cross the boarder into Bolivia and undertake a very bumpy 3 day trip through the desert into the small town of Uyuni. It only cost fifty pounds to cross the desert including rustic accommodation and three basic meals a day.

Day 1
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We left early in the morning and all jumped on board a local mini bus which took us to the posh Chile boarder checkpoint. After pushing our way to the front of the queue and pissing off the locals we collected our exit stamps before travelling for an hour across no-mans-land towards the Bolivian boarder.

As soon as we arrived at the Bolivian check point, I could instantly feel that we had arrived in the poorest South American country. The atmosphere and landscapes felt 3rd world, similar to those in Asia.

The immigration office was a small mud hut standing in the dry and dusty desert. Desert foxes scavenged for scraps of food while running back and forth between the boarder gate protected by armed guards with AK47s.

There was no amenities at the boarder, everyone had to use an old burnt out bus as the toilet. The bus actually looked like it had been hit by an RPG! As I collected my visa stamp the menacing guard looked me up and down. It was obvious he was not going to take any shit. It was a worrying start to my already apprehensive journey across South America. Welcome to Bolivia!

We were given our exit stamps and pointed towards two 4x4 jeeps waiting for us at the boarder. We split into small groups of five and began our ascent across the Bolivian desert quickly reaching an altitude in excess of 5000 metres above sea level.

As the roads turned to dirt roads which eventually turned to no roads, I soon realised we were in for a tough journey. The driver would often grip the steering wheel very tightly while trying to dodge large boulders and desert pot holes.

The vast open and barron desert constantly changed creating the most stunningly beautiful landscapes I have ever seen. The first salt lake that I set eyes upon was simply amazing. I have never seen a landscape so beautiful in my life!

Walking close to the salt lake was jaw dropping. The salt was brilliant white and water deep blue. The contrast in colours was breathtaking. Everywhere you looked there was a photo to be taken. I couldn't believe I was actually walking on brilliant white salt granules that looked just like snow.

I soon realised that the lakes were not water but the bluest ice I have ever seen. The ice was thick and the water had eaten away the salt beneath my feet. The salt was actually hovering above the water similar to a ridge over a canyon. I soon realised Bolivia is going to be more beautiful and adventurous than I had ever imagined.

As we drove across the non existent dirt roads covered in scattered boulders I couldn't help but laugh at the 4x4 jeep in front throwing up dust into the atmosphere. We couldn't actually see where we were going. Together with the occasional sand devil, I have no idea how the driver managed to avoid the large boulders and cactuses scattered across the desert.

Eventually we stopped at a couple more salt lakes. Each lake contained different colours. Red, green and blue iced water surrounded by brilliant white salt granules. Together with a backdrop of multiple dormant volcano's, red desert, and thousands of brightly coloured birds and wildlife, I had to pinch myself to check I was not dreaming. This place is absolutely beautiful, a nature watchers paradise.

As we ventured further into the desert we stopped at volcanic geysers throwing steamy sulphur high into the atmosphere. Mud bubbled away beneath my feet while I wondered around the rim of each volcanic creator. There was no safety perimeter like in New Zealand, this was no tourist hell hole, you could get as close to the 200oc water as you dare.

As we ascended further into the desert, a couple of members in the group including myself started suffering the effects of altitude sickness. Its an incredibly strange sensation leaving you with a tingling sensation in your hands and feet. Eventually you can not think clearly and start talking rubbish. You soon become out of breath when walking the shortest distance and end up with a blinding headache. I tried to get into the wrong vehicle and even ended up staring at a wall for a few hours. I had the most vivid dreams that caused me to fall out of bed. I soon hit the Diamox (altitude sickness tablets). I was completely messed up!

Tonight we stayed at Laguna Colorada. It was a basic mud brick building with no heating, electricity or showers. As soon as the sun went down the temperature plummeted to -15oc. We soon had to change into several layers of clothes. I was almost wearing everything in my backpack. It became so cold that the toilet froze and everyone climbed into their sleeping bags by 8:00 pm.

Day 2
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We hit the dirt tracks again and passed through some of the most dramatic landscapes I have ever seen. Some of the roads were completely insane and in many cases non-existent. We visited several salt and volcanic lakes with striking colours. We even managed to get close to hundreds of flamingo. The whole salt lakes are brimming with wildlife together with amazing backdrops of dormant volcano's, this place is a paradise.

As we drove through the desert the landscape changed dramatically on every twist and turn. One minute we were driving along a rocky pathway along a mountain edge road followed by a sand dune, a large desert plane and then a dry salt lake.

On the way through the desert we stopped at what first appeared to be hundreds of strange rock formations. On closer inspection I soon realised it was hundreds of coral reefs fossilised for millions of years in the middle of the desert. I even stumbled across hundreds of fossils. This place is just astounding! The archaeological rock formations are just amazing... Its like being in a prehistoric world!

On the way through the desert the 4x4 jeep broke down a couple of times. I was not surprised. The Jeep took one hell of a hammering across the desert. I was actually amazed that it had made it to our second night. Still it still gave me some extra time to admire an active volcano throwing blooms of steam into the atmosphere.

Tonight we stayed at Hotel De Sal in the middle of the desert. The place is made out of salt bricks. I couldn't help but test the theory by licking the wall.

It was really cold again, roughly -17oc. Everyone went to bed early, we are all now suffering from altitude sickness. At least we have showers at this hotel!

Day 3
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We had to get up at 5:00am to catch the dramatic sunrise over the Salar De Uyuni. The colours over the brilliant white salt plane were stunning. We raced the other 4x4 across the 12000km2 dried salt lake. Everywhere you looked was brilliant white salt. Occasionally there was a fossilised coral reef poking out of the vast salt plains.

Driving across the world famous Salar De Uyuni salt plains was an amazing experience. The glaring white sand was blinding. The salt plains are naturally broken down into curious hexagonal shaped cracks.

We stopped for breakfast at a large fossilised coral reef. Giant cactuses towered above us. Some were estimated to be over a thousand years old. I had no idea a cactus could grow so high. Some were about 800 metres tall. It was surreal.

We stopped for a while and climbed around the fossilised reef. We messed around and took some perspective photos. We posed for a few group photos and then made our way towards the edge of the salt plains and into Uyuni.

On the way into Uyuni it was obvious how much destruction is being caused by the mining of salt from the Salt Plains. Vast areas of the salt plains have been removed, leaving a brown sludge blending into the red desert.

Bolivia is absolutely stunningly beautiful!

Accidents By Other Travellers
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While travelling the salt plains, one of the 4x4 vehicles had its door blown off by winds in excess of 100mph.

Another 4x4 Jeep got stuck in the salt plains, while levering the 4x4 out of the hole, the Jeep reversed over a girl, breaking her leg!

Some Extra Photos
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Comments

[Dan]

altitude sickness
"Eventually you can not think clearly and start talking rubbish." I think you were susceptible to altitude sickness in the office too.