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Published: September 2nd 2008
I arrived in Quito approximately one month ago on August 6th, and had prearranged an apartment on line for one month convenienty situated in the area adjacent to the Mariscal. The airport taxi took me right to the door of the apartment management company for 6 dollars. 6 dollars is the standard from the airport for anywhere in Quito. Gasoline only costs 1.48 for regular and 1.03 for diesel so transportation, especially by bus remains relatively reasonable. The apartment was reserved on line for 100 on paypal and my balance upon arrival for the full month was 300 for a total cost of 400, or 13.33 per day.
Ever wonder where all those Sacajawea dollar coins went when they all but dissapeared from the US currency scene due to low demand? The US government dumped 'em on Ecuador. Although Sacajaweas are still spewed for change in US vending machines, the Sacagawea dollar is commonly found in circulation in Ecuador, which dollarized in 2000. While Ecuador issues their own coins for the lower denomiations there is no Ecuadorian counterpart for the dollar coin. Both the dollar note and coin are commonly used, but the dollar notes that one normally receives as
change are old and dirty. Also, bringing a large wad of 5 dollar bills proved to be a useful strategy especially outside of Quito, in the indigenous villages near the volcano attractions and in the small fishing villages where no one ever has change. A pocket full of 25 cent pieces served exceptionally well for taking the buses and trolleys from north to south to Central city to and from.
The taxis are all yellow and all have meters and one must verify that the meter is reset upon entering the vehicle (except at the airport where the prepaid 6 dollar fee is prepaid) because some of the less scrupulous will take advantage of tourists by not reseting the accrued prior fare. Also some have taken round about routes in order to run the tab up. Many of the drivers, however, especially the one's who own their own yellow cars are gentlemanly. Sadly, I have never encountered a female taxi or bus driver in a hundred or so rides. Having been here a while, I have learned the city outlay, which runs about 30 long skinny kilometers from north to south. With a basis understanding, a tourist can boycott
the cabs in view that the trolleys and bus system is quite good and will take one anywhere. Common knowledge supports the claim in the guide books and websites that one takes a cab home from the bar at night in Quito. Cab at night rule also applies to Manta. However, in Tulcan and Puerto Lopez, I walked and biked anywhere after long after dark without fear of being mugged. The main point is that I overcame the generalized fears that are so commonly publicized and passed on by the guide books, blogs, and websites. I'm not saying that I'm not careful. I usually have my larger bills either stashed inside my pants in secret sewed in pockets, or more often, I carry only the few dollars needed for the particular day's activities.
Activities enjoyed so far have been the Teleferico. I got there early by 10 am because that's when the sun shines and one can see back down the hill to pleasant vistas of Quito. In the early afternoon fog and rain close in on the summit and Quito becomes invisible. The facilities at the top are fairly modest and I didn't see any robbers as stated
in some of the guides.
The San Francisco cathedral has a nice museum for $2 but some of the docents are funny about cameras. The best attraction in the big city was the Voto Nacional known locally as the Basilica. A climb to the very top of the belfry is offered for the physically able. Once a the top of the any of the 3 towers of the Basilica, one can manually ring the church bells as well as take breath taking pix of the Quiteno city scape. The Voto aka Basilica has no photo rules except for that taking pictures of the Virgen Mary alter is off limits. The other 24 or so alters inside the Basilica are fair game. One could spend days in the old town known as Centro to Quitenos. Getting there is quick and economical on the Metrobus trolley or the Ecovia trolley for 25 cents and I disembark at Santo Domingo or La Marin stations respectively and then briskly walk up the hills towards the west and encounter the many guiding signs to the well known attractions. Having reached the Plaza Grande and the Plaza San Francisco, I was able to sit, center
myself, and to relax in order to decide which one of the many spectacles to visit first. A museum known as the City Museum was also nice, as was the huge public library. I toted a small point and shoot camera which conveniently fit inside my zipped up jacket out of pickpocket range during the sardine like trolly rides to and from.
A short distance from Centro and all the old colonial attractions lies the Ejido Park near the US Embassy. Adjacent to the park at the Ejido station on the Ecovia Trolley (on Avenida 6 Diciembre) are the Cultural Center and another nice $2.00 museum with a bunch of gold indigenous ornamentation featured. Ejido Park is nice for a walk or bike ride and is strattled by both the Ecovia and Metrobus trolley to the West. But there are two nicer parks. One is the Carolina Park on Amazonas where visitors will find typical Quiteno diversion, especially on the weekends. Even better, but much different is the Parque Metropolitano above the city to the East just off Eloy Alfaro Blvd. Metropolitan Park consists largely of Eucalyptus tree stands, bike and hike paths with some playground equipment, food kiosks,
and campground. I rode there on my mountain bike in the morning and plan to revist the park soon. Also worth mention is the obligatory trip to the Mitad del Mundo. Mitad is kind of far out and could cost as much as 15 dollars one way via taxi cab. However, the blue city buses, clearly marked Mitad del Mundo will shuttle one almost there for 25 cents. Then a cab can be had close to the Equator for just a few dollars. Once there, the "establishment" version of the Equator with the big monument has been upstaged by the newer, more rustic, adjacent "GPS" version of the Equator which costs $3 but includes a tour of the surrounding village that includes many interesting scientific experiments having to do with properties of gravity exclusive to standing smack dab on the center or the world.
One week end, I took a mountain bike tour to Cotapaxi and Quilatoa for about 45 dollars each and it was well worth it because the weather cooperated. The mountain bike descent from both summits lasted about three hours each, and I was glad to have supplied my own bike, because the others where complaining
about their tour company bikes. Along the descent, the town of Pujili is wonderous in terms of culture.
The best buses in and out of Quito are Flota Imbabura, Reina del Camino, Trans Esmeraldas, and PanAmerica. These lines generally depart from the dreaded chicken bus marathon rides which feature scores of spontaneous stops in a quest to transport as many fares as possible. Generally, a bus with reserved seats is mandatory unless one has the patience of Job. However, the best bus to Otavalo is probably los Lagos because it takes passengers into the center of town whereas the others, including the Flota Imbabura, drop pax off along the highway at the entrance to town. I took the above mentioned buses to Otavalo, Manta, Puerto Lopez, Tulcan. From Tulcan, I took very inexpensive collective cabs across the Colombian border to Ipiales with absolutely no interference, border check, reentry hassles, nada, zippo, zero, it was almost too easy. I am thrilled to have gone to Ipiales Colombia on an overnite trek to the Las Lajas Basilica--one of the most amazing structures I have ever seen because it is built deep down in a river gorge with a water fall, a
crypt and bridges, etc .
Manta, in Manabi Province, is over rated. I would not recommend going there, but the bus ride from Quito (up to 10 hours) is scenic if done during the day. The banana plantations en route, especially near Chone are spectacular. One can avoid Manta by taking the trip on Reina del Camino directly to Puerto Lopez. If Manta is overrated, Puerto Lopez is a town of 3000, known for whale watching and blue boobies, is underrated. The shrimp and people were delightful. I stayed at Islotes Hostal on the fourth floor for the best view in the center of the small beach "malecon." The water is warm and swimable and on the Isla de Plata tour snorkeling reveals scores of colorful fish and swimming turltle. All tours to the Isla de Plata are $55. The Manta Raya tour company appears to have the best boat.
I bussed it to the Papallacta Hot Springs, 67 kilometers out of Quito. Later in I took the Reina del Caminos over night ride on the express bus to Bahia de Caraquez, also in Manabi Province--a trip that crowned my 47 day Ecuadotoriana experience. I bought a new
aluminum GT mountain bike with shocks upon arrival in Quito and it accompanied me just about every where I have visited in Ecuador. The bike offered a certain level independence as well as unique photo perspectives that I could never have attained without it. Quito is not a bike friendly city, escept on Sunday when the Amazonas closes down the southbound lanes and turns them into bikes only lanes. Bikes can be rented in Puerto Lopez and in Quito near Ejido and Carolina Parks. I hope everyone enjoys Ecuador as much as I did.
I also went to Tena near the Napa River--an area known as the Truncal Amazons. Lots of Jungle Animals just like an E ticket ride in Disneyland. From Tena, one can charter a motorized canoe and head into the jungle. There are many indigenous tribes that will receive you and cook you up a batch of herbal tea. Yummy. Some of the monkey breeds are rowdy and others are tame and playful. Many of the cuddly little critters havw serious jungle fleas so take repellent to the east of Ecuador, even during the dry season or you may get eaten by fleas or dengue moskitos.
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barrygahan
Barry
Brings back nice memories of Quito.
We were in Quito in May, but so much has happened since that it feels like it was much longer ago. It's great to read about one of my fave SA cities again, Voto Nacional gets my vote too! Good to hear you are enjoying Ecuador, Barry