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Published: August 28th 2008
Monte della Tolfa is about an hour and a half north of Rome. Despite being relatively close, it feels like an entirely different world. The day that we arrived we were invited to attend a local festival. We were driven into the heart of the small village and left to wander down to the piazza (town square). At once we noticed that this was not a low-key event. It appeared as if the entire town had come out for this event. And the event was… donkey racing!?
As we approached the roads leading to the center of the town we noticed that there was a parade. It took some careful observations to fully comprehend the spectacle. What we discovered was that there were six donkey teams, which were each named for an area of the town. The rivalry between the teams was intense and team partisanism was expected. The parade was the culmination of team pride.
The teams paraded down the small Italian streets to the square. The local youth carried banners, played the drums, and did flag routines. Adults and elders followed in traditional costumes. Each costume was symbolic of traditions within the locality. For example, one team carried
a table with a fish head. I am assuming the fish head represented their historical occupation of fishing (or maybe just gutting fish?). What was surprising was how seriously each adult played their role. It was rare to see someone make a face or even look embarrassed about the spectacle they were participating in. David and I were a little less polite, we found ourselves laughing hysterically with each new costume that rounded the corner. It was so bizarre!
Each team’s processional ended with the presentation of their best racing donkeys. Despite the pride of the costumed persons leading them, the donkeys looked a little apprehensive about the whole situation. They were dragged down the street followed by the team’s hoodlums all dressed in the team’s colors and looking like they wanted a fight.
The town’s square was packed with people of all ages. The mayor of the town and the priest presided over the event from a balcony on the town hall, complete with makeshift sound system and score board. Every possible inch of space was filled with people wearing their team’s colors. What stood out most to David and I was how entirely authentic the celebration
was. There were no other tourists to be found. Unlike so many things we have seen during this trip, this was not created for tourism. It was solely for the entertainment and enjoyment of the towns ‘people.
Young and old cheered with excitement as the races began. The races themselves were short, but very exciting and filled with the unexpected. However, for each two minute race we watched, we watched a half hour spectacle of getting the donkeys into the starting gate, which was almost as entertaining. It took a lot of determined Italian men to do the job. Obviously, the donkeys were not so thrilled about their part in the festival.
The jockeys rode bareback on psyched out donkeys using only one rope. The sport looked rather dangerous with jockeys falling off at every turn. As if falling off the donkey in front of the whole town was not embarrassing enough, the jockey had to chase after his run-away donkey for the remainder of the race. I guess the potential to win was what kept these teenagers in the race. The winning team’s jockey and donkey were celebrated like kings. After the races concluded and the winner
Saint Antonio fans.
We cheered for this team because they had the loudest blow horns. was announced, the jockey became an instant celebrity and was rushed by the team’s crowd and hoisted up in victory.
David and I are now huge fans of donkey racing and hope to inspire a similar tradition in Wedgwood upon our return!
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Edmonds dad
non-member comment
Wait a minute
You are both so good at writing, I feel like we are there. You guys have tried so many new things and appear willing and able to try anything and enjoy it. So, why don't I see pictures of you and David riding the donkeys in one of the races. I don't see how you can bring this tradition back to the US if you haven't tried it first. Come on you guys, get your acts together here!