Ooraminna to Ayers

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My watch alarm was set for 5am, yes five in the morning. After a heavy night, that’s all we wanted. Anyway, they were aiming to the bush camp by about 6am, which left an hour to get dressed, have breakfast and dismantle our lovely tent. There were some tired eyes I can tell you that morning. Some of the others were already up, dressed and having breakfast. Anyway, I stumbled out of the tent and got dressed. I was up earlier than most people, solely because I wanted to make sure I had the chance to get dressed properly. I didn’t fancy having a shower there as it didn’t look to clean.

Once dressed and packed I left my bag by the coach on the tarpaulin, and got some breakfast: some bran-type cereal and a mug of tea, to really wake me up.

The sun was beginning to rise and it was starting to warm up, though it was still ‘fleece jacket’ weather. After about twenty minutes or so, the full party was up and about, and having breakfast. We did have a choice, but I wasn’t really that hungry after my second helpings of last night’s dinner, so I was more than content with my cereal.

It was help yourself at meal times, clear your mess up, and wash your plates and cutlery up after you’ve finished. We had a long drive ahead of us. Once we had gone back up the awkward track from yesterday we joined up with the Stuart Highway. This road stretches from Darwin to Adelaide. This time I was right at the back of the coach with Ivan. He seemed like really good pals with Edwin, the guy with the video camera, and he was with his girlfriend on the other two seats at the back.

The landscape was pretty much the same for the entire journey along Stuart Highway. Desert like conditions with this same red dirt, with many scattered clumps of bush, with the odd burnt out tree. We passed many animal skeletons on the journey, many of which were dingoes and cows, though some were barely recognisable what creatures they used to be. It was strange to be travelling for so long and yet see so little. We passed the odd car every half-hour or so, and the odd road trains (big juggernaut lorries which pulled four or five trailers at a time). There was absolutely no housing or settlements to be seen. It brought home to me, just how under-civilised this part of the world was. I was reading in some books before I came out on holiday, that if you plan to drive out in the Outback then you would have to be fully prepared for it. It was advisable to let the police authorities know your travel arrangements; you’re destination and time of expected arrival. It was also probably best to take at least a day’s provisions with you, plenty of drinking water, and also distilled water for your vehicle. Also, all the usual equipment you’d need to take on a long holiday journey. When you read things like that you realise how risky it can be if you are fully prepared for it. You hear many stories about people whose vehicle break down in the middle of nowhere, and they end up getting mugged or even worse. I wouldn’t have thought it would have been a nice place to spend the night either. All sorts of unsavoury characters use these roads, as they are the only ones around.

We had travelled for about an hour or so, and then stopped off at a roadhouse called ‘Jim’s Place’. ‘Jim’s Place’ lies 90 km (56 miles) south of Alice. This was more a toilet stop than anything, but it was another opportunity to stock up with water and food. It was good to stretch legs as well.

After about half an hour we were back on the road again. It was a chance to catch up on our sleep for some of the journey, but it didn’t last. We got to the bit that I’d been dreading. We all had to introduce ourselves to each other. This wasn’t just a low-key affair. One by one, we all had to take our turn up at the front of the coach, where everyone could see us. We had to briefly tell a little about whom we are, where we come from and what we do. I suppose it was daunting at first, but everyone then knew who you were. It was easier to ‘break the ice’ I suppose. Some of the guys kept it real short like name, age and where they were from, but some of them went into their jobs and or their hobbies. Most of them included ‘drinking’ as one of their hobbies. A large percentage of the tour party were from Holland, but there were also people from other countries: Spain, Germany, Switzerland, South Africa, Japan, and Canada. Some of the Dutch kept reverting back to their language, which got annoying, and the Johnny said that he only wants English to be spoke by them, so that he knew what was being said. I couldn’t that they could revert in between languages as well as they could.

After a short while it was decided that we should watch a video, and quite appropriately, it was ‘Road Trip’, which I hadn’t seen before. It was quite funny, but even funnier, when it was obvious that some of the party didn’t understand the ‘in’ jokes. This kept us interested for an hour-and-a-half, and then we were on the Lasseter Highway.

We had two stops on this highway: roadhouses at Mount Ebeneezer and at Curtin Springs. On the map, these looked like settlements or small villages, but these were only roadhouses - a garage, a café, and toilets. Mount Ebenezer is also a camel farm, so we went to see the camels, when we arrived. The roadhouse is 55 km (34 miles) on from the Erlunda junction, where we joined the Lasseter Highway from Stuart Highway. Owned by the neighbouring Imanpa Aboriginal people, it featured a gift shop, and displayed and sold local artefacts and paintings. Curtin Springs is a further 100 km (62 miles) on, and is a working cattle station

After a short while of travelling on the highway, Johnny told us to keep a lookout for Ayers Rock and that a drink was in it for the first person to see it on our journey. At that, we were now all keeping very vigilant. The terrain was very similar for many miles, which made it very uninteresting to the eye.

Then I noticed way in the distance, something coming out from the horizon. It looked like a flat-topped mountain. It couldn’t be Ayers Rock - could it! Anyway, I pointed it out to Ivan and Edwin, who both shouted out ‘Rock!’ It got everyone’s attention, but it was not right. The shape of it was different, and we then knew it was not Ayers Rock. On seeing this, the two were taken aback. On first impressions yes it did seem similar. However, as we neared it definitely wasn’t. It was Mount Conner.

We stopped at the Mount Conner viewing area, where we were able to take photos from. We were here for a short while, and then it was non-stop through to Yulara. From now on, we knew the next imposing sight on the landscape would definitely be Ayers Rock, or as it should be known as - Uluru. We still had a half-hour’s wait until we could definitely see the world’s largest monolith. This we could be sure, was what many of the group, deemed to be the absolute highlight, and the main reason they were on this tour. As we drove closer and closer, the rock just kept getting larger and more intimidating. The roads weaved in and out, and sometimes we lost sight of it to the other side of the coach. Obviously we were now in its territory, and wherever we were we could always see it.

We were on our way to the Ayers Rock Resort, also know as Yulara. This would be our base for two nights. After last night out camping we were really looking forward to our time in civilised accommodation. The resort came out from nowhere, probably due to it’s camouflage amongst the surroundings. The resort was built in the 1980’s and accommodation consisted of three hotels, some small travel lodges (where we to be staying, which was called ‘Spinifex Lodge’) and a campsite. The resort stretched across a very wide area, as only one-storey buildings were to be built in the area. This highlighted the importance of blending in with the landscape.

During the journey we had drawn lots as to who we would be sharing rooms with, and I had to share with Ivan once more, and Ian. Ian was on this tour with his wife, Shannon. They were both from Durban, South Africa. He had made the mistake of not saying he wanted a double room, so he ended up getting stuck with us two. Once we arrived at the resort we quickly went in search of our apartment. As we’d had a long, tiring journey we were allowed two hours, till about 1pm, to get settled in the rooms, and to also have a shower. That sounded good to all of us, as we were all very hot and sweaty. We hastily made for the apartments. These were all in a group together on the edge of the resort. There were about thirty in total, though they weren’t all for us. They were very clean and modern, and would suit us down to the ground for two nights.

In our apartment there were two bunk beds, one either side of the front door as you enter. Directly in front was a unit where you could keep bits, and a kettle with some tea, coffee and sugar. Then, to either side of this unit, was a door. The left door led to the toilet and wash basin. Again this was all clean and modern. The right door led to a shower. This was quite a roomy shower as well, so at least I wouldn’t be knocking my arms on the sides this time. I had a cup of tea, and then jumped in the shower first. It was very relaxing to say the least, and the water was even the right temperature! As there were three of us sharing this room, and only two keys, it was decided that we would take only one key with us, and the other we would hide in the long grass. Then, if whoever came back first, didn’t have a key, they could use the one we’d hidden. We all had to meet up at our base area, where we would have all our meals, for the duration of our time in Yulara. Had a quick bite to eat before we left for a look at Uluru. The trip there took about twenty minutes, on a very winding road, which I think was especially built that way so everyone was able to see the surroundings, and not just one side. We had to go through a checkpoint each time we went to Uluru, as it was a protected National Park, and they didn’t want people there, that didn’t have permission to be.

We were now so close that it filled our sight.

We walked around the Cultural Centre before we did anything. This gave us an insight into the history of the Rock and also the Aboriginal history and customs. The local Aborigines were known as the Anangu tribe. It was very interesting, with lots of displays and exhibits, though we were unable to take any photos, as this was classed as invading their privacy. It was really strange as many of the photographs, which were displayed, had black stickers placed over some of the people. Any Aborigines, which are deceased, are removed or covered over out of respect. We were in the Cultural Centre for about an hour and then we made our way to ‘The Mutitjulu Walk’. This was only a 30 to 45 minute-walk, which took us right to the rock. On this walk we saw the Mutitjulu waterhole, which is apparently home to Wanampi, an ancient watersnake, and also some Aboriginal drawings and carvings on the rock. This was a sign of ‘educating’ their offspring. As we were walking we could see where the rain flows off the rock. The rock was ‘stained’ with a black tinge, where this happens. It was very hot, and even on the shortest walk it was wise to take water.

Once we had a feel for the walking we then walked ‘The Base Walk’. This was a 9-km (6-mile) trek around the base of Uluru. It was going to be a very long and tiring experience, so Tim and I decided we would go with Miriam and Kim. Miriam and Kim were two Dutch girls. They were real nice and friendly, and it made the long walk a joy. We chatted about most things (well we certainly had the time to!), and to be honest it brought the four of us together for the remainder of the trip. Miriam was 25, and she came from Rotterdam, she was in the second year of her law degree. Kim was of a similar age and was from Amsterdam. To be honest, I don’t remember what she did, but she was in a job, and had her own place back in Holland.

The walk took up about three hours of our time, and really was one of the best experiences of my holiday, made even better by the excellent company we kept on this journey.

Anyway, we all found out a lot about each other, chatting about our work, hobbies and our intentions in life.

There was no rush to finish the walk, which was good. We were able to soak up the whole experience. I wished I’d taken more photos than I did, especially with my new friends. The one thing I can’t put well into words is just how big it is. I have seen photos in books, before I came out there, but to see it in reality and right up close is just something else. Also, I couldn’t believe the glowing red colour. In the full sun it was a bright orange-red colour, but as we were walking round we hit the shady spots. The rock here had changed colour and was now an off light brown colour. The walk itself was long, and it was mostly on a dusty track, but some spots were more rocky and uneven. There were clumps of small trees all round the rock, and even some rainwater pools were still in some places. We encountered a small number of sacred sites, where we were forbidden from taking photos. Anyone caught doing such a thing, would be ejected from the National Park, and would face a stiff fine. On a couple of occasions we got stuck behind some other tour parties, but we quickly hurried past them. While we were walking I kept thinking to myself, I’d love to stop time here and then. I’m in an amazing location, with some really good company, and relaxing at the same time. It just couldn’t get any better.

We finally got to the end of the Base Walk: hot, tired, but with a sense of accomplishment that I had completed the walk round the circumference of this amazing landmark.

On making it back to the coach, we were greeted with some fruitcake and orange juice. A welcome change from the water we had been drinking for the past few hours. We waited around for the others for a short while, but they didn’t arrive, so we decided to go on another short walk with the two girls. This was nowhere near the length of our last walk and didn’t take as long. By the time we had completed it and got back to the coach park, most of the group had turned up. They were waiting at the shelter out of the sun, and next to a water point.

Next stop it was back to the resort, so we could get refreshed and chill out for the rest of the afternoon. Upon returning back to the resort, I had another shower. It felt good, as we had all built up a sweat on that challenging trek. That evening, we were due to go back to Uluru, for a champagne sunset. We had all met in the usual area, and then made our way for one of the sunset viewing areas that were situated just off the main road. We couldn’t believe it, there were about thirty or forty coaches there all lined up, each with their own party. Some had set up tables and were laying out food and drink. Some were just keeping it to the basics, and some were way over the top with tablecloths, cutlery and the like.

Johnny found a half-decent spot midway along, and we got off. Some of us helped Johnny and Ian set up a table with some small bites to eat, and we all had champagne to go with it. It didn’t look like we were going to see much of a sunset tonight, as the cloud had now began to roll in. I spent most of my time there chatting to Lisa about this and that, including what she does back home. Unfortunately, she had just lost her job, the week before she came out to Australia. I was telling her what I do, and we were getting to know each other quite well. We were now getting to the time when the sunset was supposed to be in its element, and all we saw were dark rain clouds which began to fill the sky.

I used my film up on the ‘failed sunset’, and then could not believe what happened afterwards.

Heavy rain was now falling in the distance around the rock, and it began to change colour as it was getting wet. There must have been some sunlight getting through, as a rainbow now appeared by the Uluru’s side. This was an amazing sight, and not one I had planned to see. ‘Could it get any better?’ I thought. Well, it did, a second rainbow now appeared within the original, so now we saw two rainbows, deep and dark rain clouds with rain visibly pouring down, and the rock itself. All of this happened right after I had finished my film up. I didn’t even bring a second film with me, as I hadn’t expected anything like that to happen. This was typical of my luck. I then made sure every where I went I had my camera with me, with a spare film, just in case.

As the light began to go, it was decided we should head back and have a spot of dinner, was had been prepared while we were here. It was a spicy, oriental meal, and was very tasty. As it had been a long day we were now getting quite tired. I was eating with Tim, Riki, Miriam and Kim.

Gradually, as time went on, the party began to dwindle as everyone hit the sack. We had another early start tomorrow morning.

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