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Published: August 25th 2008
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Who let Blitzen out?! After a successful tour of Iceland, I checked in at the airport for my flight to Svalbard. Some of you may need to look this one up. My first clue that I was heading somewhere off the beaten path was when the lady at the check in counter had no idea where it was. My second clue was that on a plane that seats 200 , there was maybe 50 passengers. After a 3 hour flight to Oslo, a 4 hour layover, and then another 3 hour flight I was landing in Longyearbyen, Svalbard. The plane landed at 11:30 p.m, but being this far north the sun was still up. The first views I had of Svalbard was of soaring snow capped mountains as far as I could see. I made it to my guesthouse and quickly fell asleep after a long day.
I woke up Saturday and went to explore the town of Longyearbyen. It's population is about 2000 and it reminded me a fair bit of Inuvik. It's not set up as well, and doesn't have the same amount of structure, but it was easy to tell I was in a truly Arctic town. As I learned more
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Glacier Stroll about this place, it became pretty apparent that tours are the main way to see things here. Leaving the town limits without a rifle is pretty much not allowed, and risky, due to the large population of polar bears. Considering the location and prices in Norway in general, I knew that going on tours would be pretty costly. As I made it back to the dorm room I knew there must be another way. Now I have heard people talk of times when travelling that there are just "moments", when the pieces come together and something awesome comes from it. And I think I have now had my first moment...
After I made it back to the dorm room, I was sitting in the kitchen eating an 8 dollar piece of cheese bread, when another guy walked in. I started talking to him and it turned out that he was a Genetic Biologist who worked for the British Antarctic Survey. He was in Svalbard doing research on a type of insect, and had stayed a couple extra days just to enjoy the place. He had spent the day hiking on one side of Longyearbyen, and was planning on going
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The pay off to the other side on Sunday. Having worked in the area, we was equipped with a map, GPS and rifle. After talking to him for a while I managed to earn his trust that I'd be a good hiking partner, and Sunday morning we set out.
Our hike started in Longyearbyen and headed up and valley to a glacier. We reached the glacier and began the long walk across it and up the other side. We continued climbing upwards to a ridge that we could see, all the while hoping that the clouds wouldn't roll in and block our view once we reached the top. Luckily, when we reached the top, it was clear and sunny, and the views were, for lack of a better term, "mind-shattering". Knowing that I was in such a remote part of the world, enjoying such scenery of nonstop glaciers, and mountain peaks was truly a reward. I was also aware of the fact that this was somewhere I would not have seen had I not managed to find someone who was willing to let me tag along. From the ridge, we hiked down, across a snow covered plateau, amidst reindeer who cautiously watched
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Highest point of the hike us before running away. Across the plateau, we turned back to the tongue of another glacier, and then up the piles of rock debris that has been deposited by meltwater. A lot of uphills, and uneven rock climbing later, we were into another valley which had melt water streams criss crossing it. I had managed to keep my feet dry for most of the way, but the multiple crossing became too much, and I was forced to wade across and get wet feet. The valley turned left and right a few times, and finally emerged at an abandoned coal mine which marked the end of our scenic trek. It was then a gravel road to the one main road that runs from Longyearbyen to the one active coal mine in the area. Knowing we had 15 km left to walk, it was to much luck as we reached the main road a single car started approaching us from behind heading towards Longyearbyen. My hiking partner threw his thumb out in hopes of getting us a ride to town. Being the awesome day that it was, and obviously with some luck on our side, the car stopped and picked us up.
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The glacier we hiked down to Back into town 8 hours later and ready for a shower and bed, I couldn't help but reflect on the places I'd seen. Iceland had set the bar pretty high, but Svalbard has just eclipsed it. Two more full days in Svalbard, and then I fly back to mainland Norway, the northern city of Tromso.
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Wow
Svalbard is next (but one, travelling Morocco first) on my list. I am travelling to Norway May year, and adding in some time on/in Svalbard. I can't wait to go. Enjoy Tromso as well, I will be visiting when I am in Norway, so I am looking forward to seeing some pictures!