The Inca Trail, Machu Picchu and the story of how we nearly didn´t make it!!


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South America » Peru » Cusco » Inca Trail
July 12th 2008
Published: July 19th 2008
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We had our Inca Trail booked for Wednesday 9th July and after looking forward to it for 6 months we were glad to check in on Sunday and have all the details confirmed. Sophie had lost track of the days so thought we were going on Tuesday for a few days so it´s a good job that the trek company called our hostel on Monday morning and asked us to call in as soon as possible... all sort of thoughts raced through our heads of why we would need to go in again but we made our way down there. There was a problem.. on Wednesday 9th July there was to be a national strike across Peru because the government was trying to take land from the farmers. The company were concerned that we wouldn´t make it to the Inca Trail due to road blocks so they had arrange for us to leave at 3.30pm on Tuesday 8th so that we would make it there ok.

We arrived at the offices in the afternoon and everyone was ready to have a 4 day 4 night trek instead of the original 4 day 3 night.. one more day being stinky wouldn´t matter too much! All was ok as we left Cuzco town on our bus... ok until we got about 1/2 hour outside the town and we saw small rocks on the road but nothing too bad so we continued on our way. As we approached a small village the rocks turned into boulders and there were groups of farmers putting yet more rocks on the road and making our journey very difficult. The porters on the bus jumped off and moved the rocks as best they could so we could continue on our way.

Rocks appeared more and more regularly but we managed to get through them.. some farmers also thought that putting cacti on the road would stop us but no.. we were determined to get there and it all added to the fun for us trekkers! The fun stopped when we got to Urubumba though.. it was dark by this time and as we drove though this town there was an army of strikers stopping us from going though the town.. we tried another route but at every turn there were hundereds of (drunk) strikers that would not let us and the other buses through. We were
Patallacta TerracesPatallacta TerracesPatallacta Terraces

This used to be a small village to feed up to 200 people.
advised not to get off the bus but Dale needed feeding so had to visit a shop and on his way back very nearly got caught up in the riot and had to chase our fleeing bus back down the street, dodging flying rocks and pushing angry protesters out the way!

Our guide thought he had found another route though but this meant going 1/2 hour back on the same road we had originally drove down and through the rocks & boulders again until we got to a fork in the road. Whilst going back along the road the poor bus driver and porters were hurled abuse from the farmers for breaking down their barriers but nothing was going to stop us! After 20 minutes we saw a convoy of traffic in the distance being led by what looked like another group of angry farmers ready to attack.. but no... it was the Police and Army ready to come to everyone´s aid. There were 100´s of police in riot gear armed with AK47´s marching along the road breaking down the blockades as they went.. it was all so exciting like something from the movies!

We all drove back to Urubumba with our bus at the front of the convoy laughing at how funny it will be when the army of strikers see the backup we had brought with us.. no messing with us this time! The police & army went on ahead shooting off tear gas and dispersing the crowd and we were able to very slowly make our way.. each time we came across another group the backup would come along and clear our path.

As we neared km82 (where you start the Inca Trail) the backup had left us on our own and we thought all would be ok until on our very final leg one group had made a huge bonfire in the middle of the track and refused to let us though. By this time it was 2.00am, we were all very tired and had been on the bus for 10 hours and were not seeing the funny side anymore so we just got out the bus and walked the final 1/2 hour to the campsite.. in pitch black! We set up camp and got to sleep at 3.00am ready to be up by 8.00am to start our trek. We were just so glad to have made it becuase the consequences if we hadn´t were unthinkable. We´d booked this 6 months ago and with a limited number of trekkers on each day if we hadn´t got there ready to start on the 9th we wouldn´t have been able to do it.

Our group was a fantastic bunch.. as is so often the case it´s the people you do these things with that really make it special and we couldn´t have asked for a better group of people. There were 6 from the UK (incl us) - Joe & Anna, Andy & Lisa, 5 from Canada - Vanessa, Meridith, Mary-Beth, Joey & Kim, 2 from the Netherlands - John & Mika and 1 from New Zealand - Luisa.

We won´t bore you (or ruin it for those who may go in the future) with a full run down of each day so have decided to give you the edited highlights

DAY 1 - 12km
We all woke at 8.00am the following day, ate the yummiest breakfast.. porridge, fruit pancakes, cocoa tea and then set off on our way. This is supposed to be the easy day but the weather was so
´The family´at km82´The family´at km82´The family´at km82

From left to right... Andy, Mary-Beth, Mika, Luisa, Lisa, John, Anna, Joe, Dale, Vanessa, Meredith, Joey, Kim & Sophie!
hot and made for hard going up the steep inclines of which there seemed to be many! After you cross the bridge at km82 the start of the trail is very pretty running along the Vilcanota river and you get your first view of some Inca ruins.. Huillca Raccay which is quite exciting even if they are on the opposite side to you. In the far distance you get a fantastic view of the Veronica glacier standing at 5,860m, we were certainly glad we weren´t going to have to get up there!
We walked though a couple of little villages which we decided must have the address 1, 2, 3... The Inca Trail, such a cool address, and eventually come to a viewpoint for Patallacta which used to be a small town with over 100 buildings and some terraces which would have been used to support the town. After another few km we stopped for lunch in a little village and enjoyed a short siesta before starting again for the final ascent to our first camp at Wayllabamba.
Wayllabamba in in a small farming community and has fantastic views of the valley with the glaciers beyond, it was so great to look out our tent home and enjoy the views in front of us. After enjoying a few beers ( yes they even sold beer!) and 3 course dinner with the group it was time for bed at 8pm!
Highlights of our 1st day were...
* getting our passport stamped with the Inca Trail and starting off along it at km82
* seeing our first major inca ruins and learning about how they used to use the terraces for their farming. They used to grow avacados, passion fruit, tomatoes, potatoes and all sorts of other fruit & vegetable we didn´t even know grew in Peru
* seeing paracites on a cactus and Fredy squasing them to make a red dye which was used to paint all our faces!
* seeing our first ever avacado tree.. no avacados though :o(
* learning about Pachamama (mother earth) and how the Incas used to worship her
* reaching our second campsite and having the most fantastic views of the valley and glacier beyond and enjoying a beer in the most remote village possible!
* collecting a rock each ready for a ceremony for Pachamama the day after

DAY 2 - 12km
Because
Lady Dancer OrchidsLady Dancer OrchidsLady Dancer Orchids

These are very very expensive so no picking them!
we were staying in a farming village we were kindly awoken by the cockrels at 6am but managed to get another hours shut eye before we were woken up with a cup of cocoa tea at 7am. We were all aware that the 2nd day is the hardest day to get though so Sophie elected to hire the use of a porter to help carry her sleeping bag & mat to the camp.
We set off and immediately had a steep climb up the mountain side which worried us that if this wasn´t the difficult bit then how hard would it be!
We had a short rest stop after about an hour and yet again were able to enjoy the views in front of us. Not long to rest before we had to press on and ascend further up towards Dead Womans Pass. We walked for a couple of hours up some very steep steps though the forest and these are the times that the group splits up because each person has to go at their own pace to get though it. Dale was first to the snack stop in the foot of the valley and was able to enjoy nearly an hours rest while the rest of the group arrived and we all ate our cheese & tomato rolls accompanied by popcorn and cocoa tea!
We could see the point we had to get to way off in the distance and it looked so far but we were all up for the challenge.. it was that or turn back..
Setting off along the valley floor passing llamas and alpacas as we went, the ascent to 4,200m is made more difficult by it being up Inca steps that are not level or even and you make slow progress chosing your best footing. Yet again Dale was first up and Sophie couldn´t even see him up there in the clouds but on reaching the top the sense of achievement is immense. Both of us had never been so high up, it was just a shame that you are so high in the clouds you can´t see anything! The temperature drop at this point is also evident so Sophie immediately regretted wearing her shorts and we both wrapped up in gloves, hats and fleeces.
When the whole group reached the top we all celebrated with our cememoney to Pachamama all laying our rocks on top of each other. Wine was then produced by one of the porters and after giving some to Pachamama we all enjoyed a small glass each.. it was all so hard to take in that you are in the middle of the Andes doing things like this!
Because of the cold we didn´t linger long at the top and soon made our way down to our 2nd camp at Pacamayo but we first had to go down some equally as uneven Inca steps for 1 hour to reach it! On our arrival the porters had our camp all set up in the mist and we enjoyed our 3 course lunch followed by a long siesta to relax after our hard days trekking.
Our evening was filled with introductions to each porter and a game of s**thead followed by a ghost story of the area from Fredy which made us all go to the toilet in pairs! It is exhausting doing so much walking so another early night at 9pm!
Highlights of our 2nd day were...
* reaching the top of Dead Woman´s Pass at 4,200m above sea level... the highest we have ever been
* learning how to chew cocoa leaves properly but being careful not to take too many and float up to the top!
* learning that 2 - 3 people die on Dead Woman´s Pass each year and being glad we weren´t one of them!
* leaving our rocks we had collected the day before and taking part in the ceremony for Pachamama
* seeing our first ever passion fruit tree.. again no fruit though :o(

DAY 3 - 15km
So today is the longest days trekking so we were woken up at 6am with a hot cup of cocoa tea for the day ahead. After yet another filling breakfast of pancakes and hot chocolate we set off for the ruins of Runkuracay. Unfortuantely today we had woken up in the mist so could not fully appreciate the beautiful scenery that would undoubtedly have surrounded us.
After a short stop at Runkuracay and having reached our 2nd pass we made the steep descent down again and continued on for about an hours walk until we reached the ruins of Sayacmarca which are very well preserved although the reason for the ruins is still not known.. maybe a snack stop?! After this we descended further and reached the start of the cloudforest which is the home to many beautiful flowers, trees and mosses. You pass though an Inca tunnel carved into a huge rock and eventually we stopped for lunch in the mist before climbing upwards yet again to the 3rd pass at 3,700m.
We had heard about the 2000 ´Gringo Killer´steps on the 3rd day but some of us thought that the ones we had endured earlier in the morning were the ones.. but no they still lay ahead of us! We were all glad of our sticks as we went down the steps and our legs began to feel like jelly about 1/2 way down with yet another hours descend ahead of us! Much to our relief we finally made it down and Fredy gave us 2 options.. the easy way back to camp or the harder but much more scenic way. We chose the hard way at his recommendation because the views were apparently unbelievable and he wasn´t wrong one bit...
At the terraces of Winaywayna, which we´d seen from the distance much higher up, the view ahead of us was breathtaking with the river and valleys beyond in front of us. The terraces themselves were also spectacular and you just can´t get over how they must have set about making them when you see the side of each terrace. We took in the view for quite a while before we had to set off back to our final camp.
Our last group dinner was the best yet and we were treated with freshly baked cake complete with writing on the icing.. we still don´t know how they managed this with no oven! After dinner we had the traditional ceremony of distributing the tips to the porters and cook and were all quite sad that we would not see them again after the trip.. if we could all have taken one home then we would have!
This camp also had a bar on it so we all made the most of a few beers over a game of s**thead before bed at 9pm ready for our earliest morning rise the next day.
Highlights of our 3rd day were...
* walking down 2,000 steps (Gringo Killer) and not falling down them!
* being disappointed that the porters managed to run down the inca steps in their sandals while we had to virtually crawl down!
* seeing the Lady Dancer orchid and being amazed at how much they sell for on the markets
* seeing yet more Inca Ruins and being amazed at what they achieved in such difficult terrain
* deciding to take the long route to see Winaywayna and being so glad we did when we enjoyed the most fantastic views we have ever seen
* enjoying a well deserved beer in the last campsite
* distributing the tips to the porters but sadly saying our goodbyes to them

DAY 4 - 5km
We were determined to be the first group at the checkpoint for the final part of the trail so got up at 4am and quickly ate some breakfast before rushing down the the control hut. We´d made it to be the first group and patiently waited 3/4 hour for the checkpoint staff to arrived at 5.30. You have to start the final part of the trail in pitch black and Sophie was constantely worried that this would be the time she tripped over the Inca path into the sheer drop at the side of the path! All was ok though and the whole group made it to the sun gate in 50 minutes so we were all very pleased with ourselves that yet again we had yet again been the fastest (and best!) group on the trail at that time. Unfortunately for us though the sun had decided not to shine that day and we couldn´t see the panoramic view of Machu Picchu because of the mist.
After a short rest stop we made our way down to the city in the hope that the mist would lift soon and we would be able to appreciate what we had all come so far to see. We began our city tour with the wonderful Fredy and after about 1/2 hour the mist slowly began to clear and the sight of the city started to come into view. Once you are able to see the city it didn´t really look how we had imagined.. much bigger and better! The ruins have held up so well over the test of time and we were all thankful that the Spanish didn´t find it and completey demolish something so wonderful.
We spent a few hours taking in the sights of the city and all it´s glory. Unfortunatley it´s so busy that it´s difficult to find a piece that is quiet enough to fully appreciate it. We also decided to take the short walk to the Inca Bridge which has been created out of stack of rocks on a sheer cliff face and were both glad that we weren´t the Inca messengers who would have had to walk across this!
At around 12.30pm the major crowds arrive on the first train and at this time we deicded to make a swift exit because it spoils the tranquility and charm of the city. We made our way down to Aguas Calientes for some lunch and to meet up with the rest of the group. After an emotional goodbye to Fredy we had a few hours wait until our train & bus journey home again so killed time mooching around the (overpriced) town. Thankfully the journey back was quite uneventful becuase we weren´t sure we´d be able to cope with a repeat of the few days before!
So we arrived back in Cuzco and all had mixed emotions about the return.. happiness that we had had such a fantastic experience together and sadness that it was all over and the group was split up.
Highlights of our 4th day were...
* being up at 4.00am and being the first group to the checkpoint.. and the first group to the sun gate.. in a record 50 minutes (it should have taken 2 hours)
* being scared we would fall off the side of the track into the valley below because it was pitch black and we couldn´t really see where we were going.. our head torch came in very handy for avoiding this!
* being so upset that it was so misty we couldn´t see Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate but being so happy when the mist cleared while we were having our tour and being amazed at how beautiful this city really is.
* enjoying the city tour and learning about the sun temple, the sun dial and what they were all used for

Other highlights from our trip include...
* having the best guide (Fredy) who was so passionate and spiritual about the Inca´s and all their traditions and having their history shared with us
* having fantastic porters.. how on earth do these 4´guys run down steps we have to have walking sticks and free hands to get down!?
* having the
Machu PicchuMachu PicchuMachu Picchu

This is the main plaza of the city
best group of people and playing s*ithead each night!

Make no mistake, this trek is hard going.. well it was for Sophie, Dale thought it was a breeze and was always first up the mountains.. there are times that you aren´t sure you will be able to make it but it is so worth the effort. When we reached Machu Picchu you feel that all those people who have come on the train and taken the easy option shouldn´t really be there but unfortunatley this is what comes with being one of the wonders of the world.. tourists and 1,000´s of them! Fredy told us how the government were thinking about putting a cable car and more and more hotels in and around Machu Picchu which would completely ruin the mistique and tranquility of it, the Spanish didn´t manage to get their hands on it and ruin it and we firmly believe that they shouldn´t either just for the sake of money.

Once back in Cuzco the Brits decided the night shouldn´t stop there so we went for drinks in the highest Irish bar in the world (Cameron Diaz has been there too!) and celebrated our adventure... drinks followed by dancing until 5am in a ropy nightclub meant that the next day did not include a relaxing massage but sleeping in until 5pm to wear off the hangovers!


Additional photos below
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20th July 2008

Oh My
Oh my god I can't believe it, I've never been this far away from home!!!!! Both you guys look very well and are enjoying yo'selves loads. Not jealous at all;-) yeah right. You dont look like you've been trekking at all, you look like you've just steped outta tha salon. I wanna be there as well!!! Anyhow Love ya loads gotta pack for Miami now and will let ya know all aboot our oliday. Miss you loads Dee xx
20th July 2008

You were lucky!
Hiya. You guys were lucky to have made it on the trek. How scary was that protest!! Dale you are so funny.........facing an angry mob to get a snack!! All those hours at the gym paid off and you made it to the end, well done! This answers a question I've had for a while........how did the very overweight lady I work with make it to Machu Piccu city? That will be the lazy train then!! Keep having a brilliant time. How ARE you going to top this???? Take care, miss you, Love Hollyxxxx
21st July 2008

Absolutely amazing!!!!
This has to be the best so far. So glad you did make it and really enjoyed reading about your exploits. It sounded amazing and the photos are really fantastic. Can't believe how much you have done so far. Look forward to the next instalment!!! Lots of love Auntie Di xxx
29th July 2008

Orchids
How much is one of those lady orchids? Can't you knick one and sell it on Ebay? ...Then Sophie could get more shopping! ;) I'm still envious of you both but not so much now - I can imagine myself to be similar to Sophie on that scary inca trail in the cold as well!!
5th August 2008

HI the inca trail looked great nan and pap will love all the photos I will get them round to show them what you have been up to, Looks like you are enjoying the food but some of it looks a bit hard to swallow especialy the Guinea Pigs, I know you like your food but how could you eat that,We went to wicky park with Grant his kids and Nan and Pap seeing the old folk on the rides is a right laugh,We have just got back from centre parks and am having a couple of week of work, Hope you are both well we all look forward to reading your updates so keep them going they are fantastic. Steve and family xx
30th November 2010

Awesome blog & amazing pictures. Do you remember who you booked with? I'm hoping to go next year :-)
23rd December 2011

What an achievement!
Am enjoying reading your blog as my husband and I are about to head off on our own adventure - its great to read about others experiences! How did you decide which tour company to use for this trek? There are so many options and so many people with different views it would be great to hear from someone who has done the trek as to the best way to go about it.

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