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Published: November 11th 2005
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Preacher Woman
An unusual and intense first 3 hours of the drive. There is a reason why Bob Marley is God here in Ghana. I'm not "worrying about a thing!" Things are finally looking up! I'm back safely in Accra after two nights in Kumasi and I no longer feel so lost! My trip on the way to Kumasi was not very smooth or comfortable and took 9 hours from start to finish. I was an "Oburuni sucker" and agreed to follow a guy that claimed he could get me to Kumasi for 27,000 cedis (about $3). By the time my friend Kelly and I paid our cedis and got on what we didn't realize at the time was a Mercedes bus slightly larger than a Tro-Tro it was too late to get our money back. We sat in the hot, sweaty bus for 3 hours parked in the Circle Junction waiting for it to fill up so we could start off to Kumasi. There were food vendors surrounding the bus the whole three house so from our seats Kelly and I passed the time by having a pineapple, corn muffin, fried dough, and papaya feast. Finally all the rows were filled with 5 people each (even though there were only 4 seats) and we were off to Kumasi. Right when we thought things couldn't get any worse, a preacher woman stood at the head of our bus and yelled at the top of her lungs for the first 3 hours of the ride preaching the "Word of the Lord" all in Twi. She held the bible in front of her mouth to catch the spit spray and pointed her fingers at each individual person on the tro-tro screaming who knows what in Twi and with her eyes open unnaturally wide. At one point Kelly whispered something to me, the woman put the bible down, stared right at the two of us, bugged her eyes out pointed her long finger and yelled "Shut your mouth!" We were stunned and immediately put or heads down trying to hold in the combination of laughter and tears. We didn't make eye contact with her for the rest of the 3 hours. Thank God again for my iPod. I will always be confused by this type of religious propaganda. I don't understand how people can be compelled to follow a religion where followers are made to feel guilty and accused of sinning by a crazy woman screaming at the top of her lungs. Not a single person on the bus objected to her preaching and most of them had their heads bowed in prayer the majority of the time. Kelly and I snuck a few photos of the woman, I hope to up load 'em soon.
I arrived at my old homestay family's house at around 7 pm and felt so relieved, comfortable, and immediately at home. It is so nice to know I have a place I can stay anytime for free where there are people who care about me and want to hear of my adventures. I slept so well but got a ton of mosquito bites due to forgetting to travel with my net. The next morning I attended the Art Therapy class taught by my proposed advisor for my research, Dr. Peligah, at Kwame Nkruma's University of Science and Technology (KNUST), where I took classes at the beginning of September. It was funny to be back on campus. It really made it sink in that I've been in Ghana for 2 1/2 months! This was my first class I attended where all the students were Ghanaian and I'm really glad I had the chance to do this before I leave. All my other classes have been Ghanaian professors teaching my SIT group of American students. The students were really welcoming and eager to get me a seat, share their notes, and catch me up on the readings. I hope to travel to Kumasi next Wed. to catch the next Art Therapy class to help me develop my research project further. I met with Dr. Peligah in his office after class and asked him to be my advisor and mentor for my proposed research and he immediately said yes. We talked about my project in depth and he gave me more suggestions on where to conduct my program in Accra. He even had three texts on Art Therapy photocopied and spiral bound for me to take and study before the next time we meet. I have a lot of material now that I can use for my final paper and it's a realif to have some focus.
That night I hung out with my homestay brother Gabby on campus with all his friends and played pool like good 'ole times. They all decided that I haven't improved. I stayed at the internet cafe that night until late working on a paper that was due today and trying to figure out my research some more. I went to SIT's favorite fast food restaurant "Big Daddy's" next to the petrol station and ate a double chicken cheese burger by my self while watching BBC World and scribbled postcards to you crazy cats at home. Something I would have never done at home, but my habits have drastically changed here out of necessity. I crave alone time, global news, and "good" food, so I was a happy girl. The next morning my other homestay brother Broda drove me to the Intercity Transit Station at 3:30 am to avoid traffic and catch the big fancy air conditioned Express Bus back to Accra. 70,000 cedis later (worth every penny) I made it to Accra in 5 hours! I took a taxi right from the circle junction to The Labadi Beach Hotel, the only 5 start hotel in Ghana where Tony Blair and the Queen of England stay when they visit West Africa. Some of my SIT friends had sent me an E-mail in Kumasi to join them there knowing I needed a pick me up. We spent the whole day lounging by the pool, swimming in the pool with waterfalls and diving in the ocean, eating amazing continental food and using the spa facilities with HOT water!! I felt like 2 1/2 months of dirt, grime and worries were washed away! It actually felt really weird to walk into this paradise resort surrounded by barbed wire with Europeans all around and Ghanaian servers and pool boys. It was not the Ghana I was used to and I felt bad for the tourists there who would never venture outside of the resort walls to discover what the real beautiful and culturally rich Ghana is really like. I was eager to ask them what the heck they were all doing there, but we kept to our selves. It's so wonderful though that a 5 star hotel lets anyone use their pool facilities for 50,000 ($5) cedis a day!! Only in Ghana! Despite being slightly uncomfortable with the expensive glitz and materialism of the hotel, it was a much needed relaxing day.
The most exciting news! Today I met with the Head Director at the Osu Children's Home in Accra and I have officially found an organization where I can develop and facilitate my Art Therapy program for my last month of independent research. The director, Helena, was a little hesitant when I introduced my self and my ideas saying that they have had problems with non-Ghanaian volunteers before, but the more I told her about my proposed project, the more interested she became. She promised me a select group of 5 girls and 5 boys between the ages of 9-13 to work with for my Art Therapy program! I have to type up a more detailed proposal for her by tomorrow, but starting Nov. 21st I can meet with the children any time after school during the week and any time on the weekend. I am so excited! This orphanage is funded by USAid and has a huge facility with many buildings. I hope to explore it soon and get to know the children I'll be working with. A bus of children on their way home to the orphanage from school pulled in as I was walking out and made me really excited. Now I'm off to search Osu with my friend Joel to for an apartment and join the Oburuni gym that has Yoga classes! I'm on another high and can't wait to start my next month! I must go type about 4 overdue assignments that I need to hand in tomorrow before I can receive my money SIT provides for food and lodging and transport for my independent month. I receive a b-day package today from my mom and the Jack Graber fam, brightened an already awesome day! Thanks to everyone thinkin' about me at home! Will write again soon. Check out the photos I added to my previous blogs. I'll for sure add more soon!
Asomdwe ne Pe,
Kate
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Aunt Barbie
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Exciting!
Kate -- I've finally read through all your journals. What an experience for you. One that I'm sure will be in your heart for the rest of your life. Remember to take lots of pictures, learn from the people about their lives and their culture. We all need to learn more about others as this worlds becomes smaller and smaller. Keep on writing so I can keep enjoying your experience and learn from it myself. Happy Belated Birthday and Happy Thanksgiving. Love you.