Hampi's currents

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March 27th 2008

Published: April 16th 2008

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TyLex

Lex blessed by the temple elephant

Laxshmi!

We headed over to the ruins of Hampi - 14th century capital of one of the greatest empires of the world - are some of the most magnificent in all India; a world-heritage site strewn across a 26 mi. radius hidden amongst gigantic free-standing boulders. The main Hampi Bazaar or market has been re-inhabited by locals in the last few decades in pace with the growing tourism. We decided to stay away from the bustling market-side and across the Tungabhadra river, reachable only by a motorboat crossing which closes at 6pm everyday. Our first hotel was airy and lush, with manicured grounds overlooking large green rice plantations beneath the rock cliffs. We rented a motorbike for the stellar price of $2.50 a day and made our way back across the river to explore the ruins. We saw the Virupaksha and Vittala temples, Achyuta Raya's temple, and the King's Balance. All a beautifully haunting mirage of the grandeur that once was.
The next day we explored a little more in the main bazaar and decided to attend a special full moon procession in the main temple that evening. That meant we would have to miss the last boat crossing at 6pm. I

Monkey exit

didn't worry too much because a couple days prior a nice young Aussie boy had shown us a place where we could safely wade across up to our knees. But despite the glowing full moon, finding this elusive crossing point turned out to be a challenge. We searched up and down the riverbank, searching for visual cues that had seemed so accessible in the daytime... Yet in the quiet bath of moonlight the massive sentient boulders held their tongues and blocked our way; over and over we pawed through the thick wet grass, starting to cross, realizing it too deep, starting again- getting muddy, frustrated.
After some time we headed back up through the banana plantation into town to see if we could get help. Everyone we asked demurred, saying it was far too difficult at night. Yet we were undaunted, at last finding a youngish Indian boy who agreed to help. He led us down the ghats to a point where, he said, we could head straight across and the water should come no higher than our waists. I've mentioned Indian Understatement. So, we began to head slowly across the dark, deepening water, pants off and bags on our

living icons

heads with every-important-thing-in-the-world in them. . . As it got deeper, Lex's fear of underwater rocks intensified. When the rapidly rushing water had risen to my mid-chest, we both began to worry... But just when Lex vowed she wouldn't go another step, we began to move up a sandy slope. And then quickly, miraculously, we were across! Our hotel bed, a shiver and a sweeter appreciation for one's life our megre reward.

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