The Long Way Round


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Africa » Morocco » Meknès-Tafilalet
February 17th 2008
Published: February 22nd 2008
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The room was freezing and there wasn't too much light to help us get up. We paid the bill and were a bit annoyed to find that our terrible breakfast wasn't included in the price of the room as it says in Lonely Planet. We phoned the guy about our trip into the desert and he said he'd do it for 300dh each. (£20) that part we had no problems about but an extra night in the hotel cost a lot. We agreed to it and were told to pay 200dh to the guy at La Vallee as a deposit.

We had to wait for ages for a taxi to arrive and it was cold and wet. Eventually we managed to get a lift with a guy that was going to Tinerhir anyway. He dropped us off in the main square and recommended a place to get lunch so that we could avoid the hustlers. We both had a yummy sandwich which we would have enjoyed much better if we weren't hassled by a guy that came to sit by us. We were trying to figure out how best to get to Erfoud but he kept on telling us it wasn't possible today. I stayed in the café making mundane conversation with the pushy guy whilst Rob ran to the bus station to see what the actual situation was.

At two we caught a bus to Tinejad where we got off only to find that our options were to get back on the same bus and go to Er Rachida which was heading further away from the desert or we could try our luck with a grand taxi. We opted for the taxi as spending seven hours on a bus seemed massively unappealing when the end destination was only an hour and a half away.

The grand taxi rank was weirdly empty and immediately we realised our chances were severely limited. We asked around and none of the taxis were going to Erfoud. The only real option was a taxi to Er Rachida which was where the bus would have dropped us. We asked the price for the whole car to Erfoud and he said 200dh which was too much. We nipped and phoned hotel La source in the desert and told them that we wouldn't need a lift from Erfoud. We thought this was better as we didn't want him charging us if he turned out to be doggy. Eventually a taxi driver said he'd take us to Erfoud for 100Dh which we immediately said yes to.

The drive was comical because we occupied the back seats but he kept on stopping to let people into the front seat. He didn't seem take any money from them so we figured we must have paid for them.

We found a hotel in Erfoud that was recommended in Lonely Planet and only cost 80dh for a double. We were both starving so we went over the road and bought two crepe things. We then had a look around the town but there wasn't much there. A guy from a shop tried to get us to look at his souvenirs and when he said maybe tomorrow? I used my first Ensha'llaah. This means if God wills and they use it ever so often here that you often find yourself without a straight answer to question.

We went to a restaurant over the road for tea and Rob had the local dish called Kalia. We spent a long time eating there and chatted to the waiter who asked us to join him for tea. We had both a Mint and spice tea which is normally for tourists, and a normal tea which the locals drink. We chatted until we got the impression that he wanted to close shop.

At the hotel now, we are ready to sleep in yet another terrible bed with a sausage in place of a pillow. Night night. Stob.


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23rd February 2008

Best of Luck
On the rest of our journeys through Morocco.. I'm looking forward to mine.

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