Cusco to La Paz

---

Week 5

Our first day in Cusco was spent buying necessary supplies and getting organised for our four day trek with Pachamama travel. Our weight allowance was 7kg plus our own daypack which was sufficient for all essentials including rainwear and warm clothes. We set off for the Inca trail at 6.00am which was late compared to some of the early morning wake up calls we´ve had. Our first stop by bus was Ollantaytamba and then onto Km 82 where we were officially registered and stamped. The Inca trail itself is 33km long with views of snow capped mountains and high cloud forest following the Rio Urubamba River (2200m) and we set off along the classic Inca trail along with other groups - up to 500 persons are allowed along the trek each day. Our first camping stop was Wayllabamba (3000m) having passed the ruins of Willkarakay. The second day we climbed through Polylepis woodlands to reach the highest pass (Dead Womans Pass 4200m) where we were greeted by a snowman at the summit. Then onto our next campsite Paqaymayu - the largest on the trail at 3500m. One of our group had their trainers stolen as they had left them inside the flysheet rather than inside the tent - a lesson for us all. The next day we climbed to the Inca ruins of Runkurakay (3800m) and over another pass, through an Inca tunnel carved into the hillside. The trail descended past several lakes to the ruins of Sayamarca, a dominant town and tightly constructed complex on a small mountain spur offering incredible views when the clouds dispersed. Then down some well-engineered Inca steps (up to 2000 of them) which played havoc with dodgy knees. The guide decided to organise a religious ritual known as the Kintu or invocation of the Andean mass in order to ask for good weather the following day at Maccu Picchu. This involved lifting three coca leaves and fanning them out in four directions as part of the prayer ritual to mother earth. We finally reached WinayWayna (means ´forever young´), the final control point before Maccu Picchu. The ruins of WinayWayna are also spectacular. They were apparently abandoned sometime in the 16th century for fear of being conquered by the Spaniards who actually never came to the small settlement. That night we tipped the porters and celebrated with them- thanking them for their hard work, constant cheerfulness and amazing meals prepared on the trail which ranged from cakes, soups to chicken satay and many other Peruvian dishes. The final day started with a rude awakening at 3.30am with breakfast at 4.00am and on the trail by 4.30am to be the first at the checkpoint which didn´t actually open until 5.30am. What followed can only be described as a race to the Sun Gate as various eager trekkers tried to overtake along the narrow trail. We reached the Sun Gate after 1.5 hours for our first glimpse of Maccu Picchu (2400m)- as impressive as all the photos you will have seen of this sight with its backdrop of sugar loaf type tree clad hills. Then down to the ruins themselves to be given an informative tour including facts about:
* its discovery by Hiram Bingham in 1911 and how the subsequent clearing of the site suggested that it had been an important ceremonial centre.
* the water fountains which would be used for ritual purposes
* the cultivated terraces surrounding the town filled with top soil apparently brought down from 4000m to enable the Incas to grow a variety of crops
* the huge stones used to build Maccu Picchu that would have needed over 100 people to move them
* the Temple of the Sun with two windows which would catch the sun rays on the summer and winter solstice
* the many mummies that had been found when Maccu Picchu was discovered
* the triangular windows to withstand earthquakes
* the fact that it costs US$1000 per night to stay in the local hotel
* the many carved niches discovered in the sacristy that would have been used to store ceremonial objects and the two rocks flanking the entrance that are purported to have 32 different angles
* one of the most famous astronomical stones in the complex which was damaged during a shooting of a beer ad which has led to some restrictions on the site

The afternoon was free to explore and some of us ambitiously climbed a nearby mountain (Wayna Picchu) to get a better view of Maccu Picchu. We managed to summit just before the rain started and got some great views of the ruins. I fell into conversation with a professional photographer who informed me that this was the first day for a week that the weather had let up to afford such good views of the ruins. Then back to Cusco - all exhausted but exhilarated by the experience.

Next day was a recovery and shopping day and I enjoyed a great breakfast as La Granje Heidis (a swiss restaurant) - you cannot imagine how good croissants, muesli, chocolate pancakes and yogurt/fruit can taste after a long trek! Bought various presents for family, friends and myself including a silver ring with various precious stones including spondyllus - a unique red conch that only is found in the cold Humboldt current off S. America. Lunch was relaxing, ensconced in a balconied restaurant overlooking the plaza and enjoying tomato/avocado salad and fresh bread. To complete my gastronomical extravaganza, we all ate out at an Argentinian steakhouse in Cusco called ´Fallen Angel, to celebrate another traveller´s birthday. This was a funky venue - even the toilets were wacky - one was decorated with barbed wire and roses and the other bathed in UV light and covered in broken glass which would never have passed health and safely rules in Europe.

The next day was an 8 hour journey to Puno- the folklore capital of Peru with over 300 traditional dances and numerous fiestas´. According to Lonely Planet, accompanying musicians play a range of instruments including tinyas (hand drums), wankaras (larger drums), flautas ranging from simple bamboo penny whistles to the piruru (carved from the wing of an Andean condor. Puno is a useful departure point for the islands of Lake Titicaca and was founded in 1668 though few colonial buildings remain. The markets are filled with local women garbed in many layered dresses and bowler hats and the sights include a cathedral and various museums - including the naval museum which has exhibits on navigating the lake from rudimentary reed boats up to 19th century steamers. I was particularly interested in the story of the Yavari - the oldest steamship on Titicaca. It was built in England of iron parts which were then shipped via Cape Horn to Arica and subsequently moved by train and hauled by mule over the Andes to Puno - a journey which took 6 years to complete! The ship was assembed in Puno and then launched on Christmas Day in 1870. Due to a later shortage of coal, the engines were powered by dried llama dung and the ship had to be cut in half and lengthened by 12m to accommodate the fuel. The ship was later decommissioned by the navy and is now a museum with guided tours being given by the captain - Carlos Saavedra - who later invited me to dinner. Even Prince Philip has shown an interest in the vessel remarking in a letter back in 1986 that it would be great to see the ship restored - something which has now happened thanks to the funding efforts of a Ms Meriel Larken Royds.

Another early start and a 3hr boat trip to visit the island on Titicaca. The name itself means grey puma as the shape of the lake can (with some stretch of the imagination) look like a puma. We were told of its tectonic origin, that it used to be part of the ocean and has 1gm/litre of salt concentration. The lake measures 165 x 60km (8565sqkm) with a deepest point of 285m. Since 1986, there has been a problem with pollution when El Nino caused the lake to rise by 5m and overwhelmed the sewerage system. There has been some attempt to solve the problem with chemicals but that has affected the local fish and the focus is now on reeds that act as a natural filter to purify the sewage in the lake. There used to be 6 native species of fish until the 1980´s when the introduction of trout wiped out several types.

Our first stop was the island of Tequile where we learned about the customs of the Aymara (pre Inca) people. Apparently 70% of them still believe in the old Andean religion and consult shamans as to their future - despite being nominally Catholic. The people on the island knit three different types of hats - for officials, married men and unmarried men and whilst the men knit, the women weave. The women make belts for their husbands and previously used their own hair when they lacked money for nylon. Calendar belts tell the story of each family and are intricately woven with 12 scenarios - one for each month which is a skill generally passed onto the oldest daughter. The islanders have elections on the island once p.a. but only married people are allowed to vote. The average age for marriage is 25-28yrs old and previously, potential couples had to live with each others families for three years (abstaining from sexual relations) to determine the degree of compatibility. This information was shared as we enjoyed a lunch of quinoa vegetable soup, grilled trout and muna tea - brewed from a local plant which is effective against altitude sickness.

Then onto Amarantine Island where we were each allocated a homestay. The family Catherine and I stayed with included Fabiana with her daughter Cynthia and son Joni. Having arrived at 3.00pm, we were invited to play football with the locals or to walk to the top of the island and enjoy splended views at sunset. I chose the latter. Our meal that evening was a simple but nutritous affair of rice and vegs and an opportunity to share some luxury foodstuffs that we had been encouraged to buy for our hosts. We were then dressed up in layered dresses and taken to the local community hall where the village lads were playing home made instruments. The locals kept us dancing that evening, swaying back and forth in our colourful costumes before returning to our homestay to sleep.

The next day we said goodbye to our hosts in our best Quechen and set off to see the floating islands where the islanders have made their homes and boats from the local reeds. They now use recycled plastic bottles as well as reeds to make their boats so they last longer! We were shown how they cook and make artefacts for sale to tourists and in Puno. A short trip on a reed boat and then back to the mainland where I decided to make my visit to the Yavari.

Another truck day en route to La Paz. We stopped on the outskirts for a spectacular panoramic view of the city - the guidebook suggests a population of 1.2 million which I find hard to believe as the city stretches in all directions.

---

Photos

Inca trail
...sign at the registration point

Top of Wayna Picchu
looking down on Maccu Picchu

Captain of the Yavari
...explaining its tremendous journey from the Thames to Titicaca

Comments

[sarah]

La Paz ain't small!
It reminds of my trip to Bolivia over 10 years ago now. What a vast and busy looking place

[traveltheworld]

Lovely to get your comments - I had no idea you had been to Bolivia. Let's definitely catch up when I am back in the UK from May 2008 and catch up on stuff. Cx

[Colin Rogerson]

Re Week 5
Great to receive your new blog. We hope you were able to celebrate your borthday in style. Had a glass of wine in your honour. You'll be far south by Christmas but we will be thinking of you warmly, Take care. love XX

[traveltheworld]

Yes - it is difficult to keep up the blog but I will try and make an effort as we will be camping a lot in Chile and therefore not always having access to Internet. Today, we were meant to climb up a volcano but the weather was against us. My birthday was fine thank you. I will give you both a ring within the next week or so and catch up on news. Cx