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Published: November 28th 2007
HOW TO DO DUBAI
or DUBAI, DO BUY......
Nov 19 to Nov 22
“Saba ‘a Alkair” (Good Morning in Arabic)
After another great flight, this time over the Makran mountain range in Pakistan (which we viewed from the cockpit with our friendly pilots) we land in Dubai to sun, sand and lots of white robed, bearded and turbaned men.
Strange to be here in Dubai where the only currency not legally traded is the Israeli shekel.
Driving to the hotel, one cannot help but be impressed by the soaring skyscrapers and modernistic buildings.
“Arabesque’ and “Disneyesque” are apt descriptions of Dubai. Construction proceeds at a furious pace here. Dubai is booming and open for business.
The United Arab Republic (U.A.E.) is a union of 7 sovereign sheikdoms, formed when the British withdrew from the Gulf in 1971. (Until then all the sheikdoms were quiet villages). Dubai boasts mountains, beaches, deserts, oases, camel racing, world-class tennis and golf events, indoor snow skiing, and ice skating, Bedouin markets and the legendary duty free shopping.
What differentiates Dubai from other Arab nations is the vision of its Sheik (pronounced, we learned, as “Shike”.) Deciding that since oil would not last
forever, he began to concentrate on tourism. In addition, he respected the citizens by providing education, housing and medical care , using his oil revenue. The current Sheik, his son, has continued this vision.
We are staying at a lovely, chic Hyatt hotel. (The linens are luxurious, the beds ultra comfortable and the bathrooms modern).
On the windowsill there is a plaque with an arrow pointing to “Holy Maccah”.
Speaking of “maccah” -----Lindsay (Gold) Weiner and MaryEllen Herman, granddaughter of Sophie (nee Gold) Caplan, explored their “gold” roots together in Dubai’s famous “gold souk”----- We found our own mecca!
Incidentally the gold carat weight starts at 18 (to appeal to foreigners’ tastes), but the Arabic women only buy the brighter coloured gold that is 22 or 24 carats. The souk is opulent and overwhelming even for seasoned shoppers like us. We did manage to find a few treasures (as souvenirs, of course).
We also managed to find a “personal shopper” at the souk. (Holts eat your heart out). Here’s how it went……After hearing a “Psst..do you want watch, nice handbag lady? Price no problem”, we actually followed a strange Arab man through souk and alleyway, up and
down stairs to end up in a” store” bolted by 3 very heavy locks.---- Another adventure that we survived. (Harvey can thank M.E. once again for saving Lindsay’s life…..the first time was when she almost stepped on a scorpion in Cambodia, but that’s another story).
On both of the planned evenings here we were entertained royally. The first on a dhow (yacht) cruise on the Dubai Creek; the second evening we hopped into 4 wheel drive vehicles and raced wildly into the desert to a Bedouin camp (Hollywood style) for dinner under the stars. Tents were set up with sumptuous rugs, mood lighting, authentic fabrics, exotic foods, camel rides, henna painting, belly dancing and more. Quite fabulous. The wine flowed more freely than we had seen so far----- ( all this in a state where public drinking is not allowed ). We were served by white turbaned, robed bearded guys. Very weird!
Our last night was a real splurge dining at the Burj Al Arab, the iconic new hotel with the curved sail-like shape, seemingly poised to launch into the Persian Gulf. Our meal was at the Al Muntaha ( the 'ultimate'), and it certainly was. Perched on
the 27th floor of this spectacular structure, the self-described “hottest international destination” is accessed by glass elevator. It is part of Dubai’s conspicuous consumption and extravagance, the Arabic version of Las Vegas.
For dinner we chose the 5-course degustation menu, and could eat only about half of this delicious meal. One glass of wine cost $ 45! Needless to say we only had one, and we won’t tell you the cost of the meal! (We have some sense left.)
One of us wants to describe the menu for Harvey, Cynthia and Lucy.
To begin: an amuse bouche choice of petit gravlax or a rabbit consommé shooter.
Next came tuna tartare served on tuna carpaccio in the shape of a lotus blossom with hot potato waffle chips. Canadian lobster ravioli in a vanilla foam was followed by a terrine of duck (the one item neither of us liked) Everything was exquisitely presented.
The main course finally arrived—an Australian waygu beef filet topped with langoustine on a dollop of the most delicious mashed potatoes we’ve ever eaten. A variety of desserts followed, but we resisted (we were quite full at this point).
After dinner we asked if it was
possible to see one of the suites. They must have thought we were potential clients, since the manager of the hotel personally showed us one of the largest, most luxurious suites in the world---a 3-bedroom, 2-storey Arabian decorated
affair that is bigger than most homes. It rents for 22,000 dirham a night (that’s
U.S. $8000).
After dinner in the desert at the Burj, overlooking the Dubai Creek, (and with daytime temps of 35 degrees) we decided to cool off and to experience the famous indoor ski slope at the Emirates mall. There is even a ski lift. Quite an astounding sight to see. BY the way, there is also an indoor skating rink at our hotel.
Along with camel racing what more could you want?
Dubai was lots of fun. Michael and Harvey are curious about Dubai and will want to see what it’s all about, so we’ll probably be back. Oh yes, the taxi drivers are fond of saying there are more building cranes here than anywhere in the world, so you can imagine the current construction,
Off now to Kenya and safari to talk to the animals…(we’re still pinching ourselves!)
So for
Our very own rink
We forgot to pack our skatesnow we say “laiba tiaba” (goodnight in Arabic)…We probably won’t have internet access for a few days…so we’ll report again as soon as we can.)
Love, hugs and kisses to everyone, especially Harvey and Michael and our families.
Xxxoooo
Lindsay and Maryellen
P.S. thanks Donna & Stanley and Phil B for the Dubai info
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Ruthie Ladovsky
How about....to begin...split pea soup with noodles Next....tuna with hellman's mayonnaise and a hot potato latke with sour cream For dessert....a muhn hamentashen Hey....on what planet is Dubai, that they don't know from a potato latke???????? Great tales....and great nails too!!!!!! xoxoxo, Ruthie