Rome-Second Day-Vatican City


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Europe » Italy » Lazio » Rome
November 21st 2007
Published: November 22nd 2007
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Am loading up a bunch of pictures. Too bad it was such an overcast day or the pictures would have been perfect. Today was a day mainly spent at the Vatican. I had just read the book, Basilica, which had gone over the controversial history of the building of St. Peter’s and was curious to see what all the fuss was about. I hooked up with a small tour of only 10 people which allowed me to get right into the Vatican Museums instead of having to wait in line. We started out the tour in what is known as the Pine Comb Square where our guide gave us a very lengthy and interesting review of the Sistine Chapel for when we would enter later (too noisy and busy to try to do in the Chapel). The Vatican Museum is the former papal apartments and led to Martin Luther breaking away from the Church and starting his movement. Short version…Martin Luther had visited and seen the incredibly decadent life the Pope was living. Combine that with the huge amount of money being spent on the building of St. Peter’s and the Pope’s selling of indulgences and separation was imminent...Martin was justifiably ticked off. As part of Italy’s settlement to become an independent nation again in the 1900s, part of the agreement was that this papal apartments would be opened up to the public.

We then traveled through a dizzying assortment of rooms in the former papal apartments each of which are bigger than most people’s entire homes. And when I say “apartments”, it’s not like what you or I would think apartments would be. They are extremely large rooms which displayed the Pope’s collection of art. For instances, there was a Greek room full of ancient statues mainly of which were from the days prior to Christ, an Egyptian room, a tapestry room which included a couple designed by Raphael, a Map room where the walls were covered with maps and ceilings were jammed pack telling the story of the bible (probably my favorite), a book room, the Raphael rooms which were painted or sketched by Raphael before his early death, etc. etc. The Map Room has maps to 90% accuracy even though they were done several centuries ago without any sort of modern technology. There was also a dignatory/signing room which required those coming to sign treaties with the Pope to walk through several rooms to get to in order to be intimidated by the wealth and power of the Pope.

Throughout the Vatican you are allowed to take pictures as long as you do not use a flash. (Our tour guide pointed out this is the case despite the fact that studies have shown that a camera flash has no impact upon art but we all know that the Vatican does not move very fast with the times.) There is also a gallery of modern art which is one of the final rooms before you enter the Sistine Chapel which contains works of several well known artists including two originals of Salvador Dali. I snapped a photo of one to show my brother who is a fan. We then entered the Sistine Chapel which was incredible. You are not allowed to take any pictures in the Sistine Chapel even without a flash. This is because a company restored the Chapel and was given exclusive rights to it for a long period of time and can be the only one to reprint photos. I sneaked a few however which might not be centered very well because I had to sneak them. The figures painted by Michelangelo on the ceiling and the large wall noting the Last Judgment seem to step right off. He had an amazing ability to paint in a way which made his figures appear to be 3D and appear to be sculptures when in fact they are not. Raphael paid tribute to Michelangelo in one of his paintings in his rooms by painting Michelangelo in. The Raphael rooms were very beautiful and you saw his ability to paint. His wall paintings in the book room are wonderful and include some self portraits since artists were not allowed to autograph their work. As a result, artists had to find other ways to “sign” their work. I’m not an artist so am amazed when anyone gets past stick figures. There are several other rooms we passed through that I’m forgetting right now. The incredible art contained in these rooms is almost overwhelming and to some extent you get numbed by it. Oh yeah…there’s another Raphael over there. Couple this with gorgeous marble floors and mosaics. The Pope was speaking when we were on tour so we were delayed in entering the Basilica. As a result, we were left to go on our own. It was a great tour and I’d definitely recommend because I would not have gotten a fraction of the info in that three hour period doing it on my own.

Once the Pope was done speaking, next up for me was the Basilica Dome and the stair climb. I exited via the very cool Museum stairs and headed over to the Basilica. For 7 euros, you can climb to the top of the Dome. You can pay 5 Euro to take the stairs the entire way (527 stairs) or spend 7 euros and take the elevator up the first 200 stairs and climb the rest on your own. I chose the latter. The 327 stairs were actually not that bad. They were regular stair height so fairly easy to climb except that there were so many of them and they were often in a winding single file staircase. Not for the claustrophobic. (For the record, my climb at the Grossmunster was still worse because those steps were very tall and for my short legs it was like doing two at a time.) The views are worth it, however. You get some great views at the 200 step point where the elevator stops but the extra climb really makes it worth while. I didn’t have a really clear day so the photos will reflect a haze in them but still show off Rome wonderfully. The climb back down leads directly into the Basilica so for those wanting to do the climb, I’d suggest doing first because the dome line was much shorter than the lines for entry into the Basilica and catacombs.

The inside of the basilica is bigger than big. It’s ginormous as we say the States. Massive, huge and beautiful. Second largest in the world and the biggest in its day. Incredible colors which don’t show through as well as they should with the bad lighting. You are allowed to take pictures and use a flash. Michelangelo’s famous Pieta is on display behind glass. That was a highlight for me. Seems so lifelike. St. Peter’s bones are allegedly buried underneath the altar (Bernini’s baldacchino) in St. Peter’s. Who knows if that’s actually true or not but makes for a good story. As family and friends know, I’ve been very torn about my religion as a Catholic and balancing it with the massive scientific and archeological evidence showing how many of the stories in the bible just don’t have the facts to back them up. Combine that with several positions the Church has taken that I do not agree with and there I am. Regardless of your religious beliefs, the architecture and art on display at St. Peter’s is worth a visit. (I did not tour the catacombs...just not up to seeing what one can do with human bones.)

After the Vatican, it was time for a quick lunch. I grabbed a pannini and a coke light and sat in St. Peter’s Square to do some people watching and to rest my feet a bit. It was already nearing 3 pm and I didn’t have much light yet in the day with the sun firmly set by 5 pm. I took some final pictures of St. Peter’s Square and headed over to nearby Castle Sant’ Angelo which is quite a unique structure from the outside. It looks like a large, brick fort built in a huge circle. Inside, you walk up huge circular ramps and some steps to enter the top where you get some great views of St. Peter’s and the Tibor River. I wasn’t planning on doing any more tower climbs but once I was in I didn’t have much of a choice. Then, I crossed the Tibor intending to see a few piazzas along the way and make my way to the Spanish steps. However, I had lost my detailed map at some point in my Vatican climb so had to use my back up which wasn’t as detailed. As a result, took some wrong turns along the way. The result was that I got to see a few more piazzas than I had planned with many having incredible fountains or monuments. One of the piazzas was the Piazza Navona which is home to Bernini’s fountain. I also stumbled onto the Pantheon. I hadn’t planned on touring until tomorrow but due to a few wrong turns I was so close that it was worth a trip. It was very near sunset so didn’t get any great photos inside. How people back in 118-125 AD were able to build such a circular structure with a dome is astounding. And it’s still standing and used! I loved it. Finally made my way to the Spanish steps which are home to some speeches by Italian leaders. I was done with climbing steps though so just took some pictures and enjoyed the fountains at the bottom.

And finally…to end my day…I did my obligatory visit to the Hard Rock Café where my feet enjoyed some time off. Picked up some souvenirs and reflected on my day. It was an incredible day. After so many years reading about and seeing photos of so many of the sites I saw today, it’s hard to believe that I’m actually here seeing them.

Tomorrow…a day I’m really looking forward to with site seeing of archeological ruins like the Coliseum and others. It’s my last day in Rome, however. Well...that's it for me tonight. It's real late here but I took a 2 hour nap when I got back from Hard Rock but need to get to bed regardless!


Additional photos below
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St. Peter's Dome StaircaseSt. Peter's Dome Staircase
St. Peter's Dome Staircase

How you get to the top!
View into St. PeterView into St. Peter
View into St. Peter

From 200 step level.
Dali OriginalDali Original
Dali Original

for my brother Chris...
Map Room CeilingMap Room Ceiling
Map Room Ceiling

One of my faves...
StatueStatue
Statue

My tour group all agreed the face looks like a young Bill Clinton...no further comment from me!
Ceiling GlimpseCeiling Glimpse
Ceiling Glimpse

Not even done by anyone famous.
Famous Greek StatueFamous Greek Statue
Famous Greek Statue

Drawing a blank on name (Laocoon?) right now but used by Michelangelo for inspiration for his Final Judgment torsos.


7th March 2009

Rome and Vatican
I just got back from Rome and I did recognise most of the places on your photos. I definitely agree with the Galerie of Maps being one of the highlights in the Vatican Museums, apart from the Sistine Chapel and the Raphael Rooms. Definitely worth a trip!
9th March 2009

Jealous!
So jealous you were recently in Rome. Want to go back and spend more time there. Glad the photos helped!

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