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Published: November 22nd 2007
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The Alps view from our plane
You couldn't beat these mountains above the clouds for a view to pass the time. I cannot begin to describe how amazing Rome is.
We had heard a lot, obviously it's got great history, sites, relics, birth of Christianity etc but also crime, street kid gangs, beggars, thieves, rip off artists and other rorts. Well, maybe it was just good luck but we saw precious little of any of this. The Italians were all polite, helpful to the point of being charming, gorgeous (well, I already knew this) well dressed and they love children so much that we got all this special treatment as we are a family. We skipped queues, were given seats on crowded buses and were generally talked to more than any other single or couple tourists. The children were always spoken to by waiters and shop keepers, given extra treats like ice-creams and I know the experience was nicer for the girls for this reason. Of-course, we only visited for a three day weekend out of the high season so who knows...but, Rome is a lovely place to visit and although there is very little in the way of parks, child-friendly museums etc, families and kids are welcomed warmly and treated well.
We saw one old lady beggar outside a
getting to the city
Our private compartment on the Leonardo Express from the airport to Termini station in central Roma. church and one inside and that was it, both seemed to be doing OK. There are far more people (and younger) looking down and out in London (and I think we and other tourists are the only people ever giving them money as I have never seen an English person part with money to a homeless person.) No kids wandering around (again, many more gangs in London as far as my experience goes). Also, it is a little warmer and the sun is somehow brighter which always helps.
We left London early Saturday morning and arrived in Roma airport at 1pm. Caught a fast train into the city and walked to our apartment right near the Colosseum, stopping off at a beautiful church first called Santa Maria Maggiore. Dropped off our bags (light anyway) and got a bus to San Pietro. Being Saturday and late afternoon there was hardly any crowds (compared to Sunday and morning time) so we got in pretty much straight away. It blows you away when you first walk in...much, much grander than anything I have seen in the UK. The sculptures are worth the visit alone (The Pieta, by Michaelangelo (1499) being the pinnacle
Santa Maria Magiore alter ceiling view
This church is 5 mins from Termini station on our walk to our apartment. Our first introduction to the astounding art of Italian Boroque art. of-course) but the overall immensity and grandeur is truly mind boggling. The Pieta was a highlight for me. Seems so lifelike, graceful and a little surreal to be gawking at something that seems somehow really private. St. Peter’s bones are allegedly buried underneath the altar (Bernini’s baldacchino) in St. Peter’s. Who knows if that’s actually true or not but makes for a good story. There was a mass on so Lauren and I attended a little of this and otherwise we just strolled around, stopping off at certain sections to admire the sculpture or mosaic or painting. Unlike other churches there wasn't many little nooks and crannies ('apses' for those in the know) so I don't think the basilica lends itself to quiet prayer or reflection, it is quite simply a massive, imposing and breathtakingly beautiful dedication to God, built to impress and inspire. (will I mention in passing that it is no wonder some other religions disparage the opulence of the Catholic Churches.)
The girls were duly impressed but there was another Church in Rome that we saw the following day. that Lauren responded much more to. It was also huge but had small enclaves and exquisite examples
Italian Gelato: where is all began
The girls had three gelatos over the three days. Each one better than the last so they say.
Oh yeah, and that's an ancient site behind there somewhere....priorities, priorities.... of trompe l'oille (paintings that depict depth really well like the Sistine chapel) . They were so well done that the paintings truly looked like sculptures and I had a hard time convincing Lauren that the the sculptures on the ceiling and walls were actually paintings! There was also an organ that was roughly the size of a football field which got her attention.
So, pretty much a church focussed day which was quite appropriate since it is the centre of world Catholicism. PS The video is of St Peter's not Colosseum of course
Dinner that night was a Pizza joint downstairs form our apartment. Lauren got special treatment because she coudln't eat the pizza or pasta that the rest of us had and so they gave her the dinner that the Indian staff were having: Chicken tikka, dahl and rice. When she asked for more, the staff were so impressed and kept coming over to smile and ask her how she liked it. They gave her some Kulfi (Indian Cardoman ice-cream) for free for dessert and shook her hand when we were leaving. Obviously Italian kids don't fancy Indian food.
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grandma
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Roma
Truly wonderful experience for the girls. Everyone looks happy and enjoying the local fare. It's almost too much to take in-all that history.Fran you have done a wonderful job with this whole blog dedication. Love Mum