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Published: September 29th 2007
Sunset Over Dar
THIS is downtown Dar. I love the different colors of the buildings.Over the past 2 weeks, I've been getting out and about in Dar Es Salaam. Yes, I live in Dar Es Salaam and am technically out in it every day, but in real life, there are two parts to "Dar." Where I live happens to fall almost smack dab in the middle of the two worlds that comprise Dar Es Salaam. In one direction you have "The Peninsula." This is where the ex-pats live, shop, beach, etc. It has grocery stores, nice hotels, beaches, nail salons, massages, basically everything that makes living in a third world country a little less... third world. If you head in the other direction from my home, you head DOWNTOWN. This is the real Dar, I think. It has the crazy little city roads, crowded streets, local markets full of fresh fish, produce, seashells, you name it. It also has stores that from the outside you might have no idea what they sell, and when you walk in you still have no idea. You have some stores where you can go in and buy shampoo, soap, childrens' toys, birthday decorations, some minor electronics, and even order customized birthday cakes. Other stores have fake plants, gold plated
More of Downtown Dar
These photos are taken from the rooftop of downtown faculty housing. paintings, bathroom scales, toilet seat covers... shopping in the city is a little bit of a treasure hunt. Maybe I should challenge a colleague to a race one day... So, I went downtown last weekend and explored several of the side street shops. Christy and I went together, on a whim, and ended up finding a great fabric store, helpful pharmacy, some hilarious home decor stores, a random curios tourist shop, and an electronics store where you can buy all sizes of tv, refrigerator, radio, the works!
I have also returned downtown this week for drinks on the rooftop of an apartment building where a handful of teachers live this year. It overlooks Dar and has beautiful sunsets. Last weekend we sat up on the roof, looked up towards the peninsula, and noticed a LARGE cloud of smoke. It was too big to be a bonfire, but we weren't certain what exactly it might be. Turns out that one of the big, ritzy peninsula hotels, The Seacilff, burnt down! The whole hotel is out of commission, but thank goodness for all of us ex-pats, the salon and shopping center are still in complete working order. I know this for
a fact, as I treated myself to a manicure today!
Back in the downtown region, I've tasted some of what the restaurants there have to offer. Where a meal on the peninsula can range from 14-20,000 shillings (8-16 US Dollars), downtown I had a feast with 10 friends at an Indian restaurant and paid only 4,000 each! We then wandered 4 buildings over and had some ice cream cones for 1,000! Way more affordable and just as good! Last night we sampled some Lebanese food downtown, and again had scintillating food for a handful of shillings!
While the food is great, and very much affordable... downtown does have the added stress of constant crowded streets and worry of theft. This is a reality all over the country though, so it's not like I'm not aware of it at all when on the peninsula, I just notice it more downtown. It is a beautiful third world city, crumbling buildings, million mosques and all... I hope every gets a chance to come out here and enjoy it with me!
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fatima
non-member comment
Thanks!
Thanks for posting this entry, i'm 11 years old and have to move to Dar es Salaam this summer not having a clue about this place. This helps alot it actually sounds like a great place to live.