Bagamoyo

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Today I had the chance to go to Bagamoyo, a little town about 70 km from Dar, with Thomas who had to give a speech. I would be able to wander around and explore the area and we would meet up later to return to Dar. This sounded particularly interesting to me because Bagamoyo has great historical significance to Tanzania and to Africa -- it was one of the three main exit points of the slaves who were captured here. Oh boy. Nothing like facing our horrendous history head on. Day three! Here we go.

Away we went by daladala (of course) but on paved road, thank goodness, which does make a difference. Only Thomas very thoughtfully arranged for us to sit in the front seat so I could see where we were going. Two of us in a seat designed for one, no seat belts of course, me pressed up against the door of the most rickety old bus I'd ever seen. Yikes. But when in Rome...I have to say though, the only thing worse than wondering what the heck the driver is doing from the middle of the bus, is actually knowing what he's doing. Just in case you were wondering.

The drive up was pretty cool since I am still blown away by all the greenery that we don't have at home -- this time mango trees and "geshu nut trees". Um...pardon? "Geshu nuts, don't you know these?" Um...don't think so, unless I know them by another name (I am learning). What are you saying again? "Geshu nuts, geshu...C-A-S-H-E-W". Ahhhhhhh, of course, yes now I know what you mean. Geshu nuts indeed.

Once in Bagamoyo I was directed to a nearby church, where I could talk to people and find out what I should be seeing. I arrived there exhausted (okay, I admit it, the heat is killing me. There, I've said it.) and sat along the wall of the church in the shade and listened to the service finishing. As the people began to pour out of the church, a crowd of children gathered a little ways from me, clearly wondering who I was. One little girl in particular would look at me then burst into giggles when I caught her eye. I was smiling and smiling, trying to entice them over, but nothing, too shy. Then I had an idea. "Karibuni!" I called out, patting the seat next to me. "You are very welcome". That did it -- zoom -- within seconds they were sitting beside me and chatting away, not caring too much that the conversation was completely one-sided. I have GOT to learn some more Swahili!

But then I had a brainstorm, and pulled out a small pad of paper I had with me, and started making Japanese cranes. They were the hit of the party, let me tell you. An older girl came along who had taken a lot of English in school and she wanted to know all about me. I had a great time chatting and folding cranes, and marveling that I should be in such a position. I'm in Africa. How crazy is that?????

Then out of the building next to us came a tour guide who had just finished his last tour and was wondering what was going on. He quickly offered to take me around and show me what the town had to offer. For about $20 I saw the site where the German colonizers used to hang Africans who objected to their rule, a cemetery containing many of the same Germans who were killed in the eventual African uprising, the fort the Germans defended "their" land from during World War I, the Customs house on the sea (i.e. the Indian Ocean) which is still in use today, the fishing boats and present day fish market and auction which is where the locals purchase their food, and had a walking tour of the town to see the houses which are constructed in a totally different manner than the ones in Dar, using wood and red mud. All this with a full running commentary. It was a lot of fun. I also drank the "milk" of a coconut, which someone cut for me fresh using a machete. Very good.

When Thomas called we had to cut the tour short (apparently there was still more to see) and I had to start looking for a taxi to go back to our meeting point. We had little luck there, but "fortunately" passed a bicycle stand where the riders were offering transport. Um...no...thanks...as Uncle Tom would say, I'm good. "No, no, it's okay, it's okay. No problem. No worries." Well what can you say to that. So I paid 500 Tsh (about 60 cents) and was "doubled" back to my meeting point by a young fellow on his bike. Too funny.

The transportation outside of Dar is not quite as regular or dependable as it is in town. We walk a lot of places and oftentimes are looking for a taxi or even a stranger who will give us a ride. This is apparently not at all unusual, and it seems very comfortable and normal. I guess this is part of what traveling is -- leaving behind your own cultural norms and rules and entering in to how other people live. It is really working for me, I have to say. I am loving it.

Very quickly -- I'm seeing interesting birds and critters along the way. I saw a couple of funny little lizards cross my path -- one sort of like a tiny salamander, one even smaller with a shorter body and little tail. They hardly seem real. I saw a gorgeous pair of blue birds engaged in some kind of battle, and a group of crows that looked for all the world like they were wearing tuxedos. I also had a rat cross my path in the yard at the hostel and I didn't bat an eye. Yay me.

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Comments

[Lindsay]

Go Jackie Go!
Hey Jackie, Thanks for the updates.... Remember, everything is an experience! Linds

[uncle tom]

next time you draw pictures do the little house with the smoke coming out of the chimney

[Peggy]

Hi Jackie
Wow-the world traveller already! What a great writer you are. I love reading what you are doing, although I'm not going to have time to read it all, you are too prolific. Do you mind if I send this on to my daughter, Erica? She plans to live and work overseas at some point and this first-hand account of a first experience would be fascinating to her, I think. As I read what you have written, I remember all my first impressions and experience of travelling, too. Like when Father Benedict was meeting me at the Columbo Airport in Sri Lanka and was 45 minutes late, and I thought he might not show up. Then later that day, I introduced myself to him for the third time, not recognizing him after he changed his clothes - how terribly embarrassing! And the time Patrick and I were in the Carribean and Patrick caught a lizard, and it's tail came off! I didn't know that was a survival technique, that their tails come off so they can escape their predators, but that they quickly grow back again. Also the times I would ride in Father Benedict's old falling-apart jeep: my feet on the battery, able to see through the floor boards to the road, no horn, no windshild wipers, and certainly no seat belt! And Father Benedict driving like a maniac, right through the only stop lights in Columba, as I thought: "He's a man of God, hopefully we're in God's hands!" Anyway, your time away will change you forever in ways you probably cannot imagine, as mine did. This is a good thing (not that I don't like you very much the way you are). I don't know how often I will be able to write something of this length, since this is my work email and I am always short of time here. Still, I will try to read your messages, and hopefully you will know I'm thinking of you often. All the best! Peggy

[Janet Howitt]

Hello
Oh sweeetie it sounds incredible and amazing. You are in Africa..... Thanks for the wonderful play by play, it is like being there. Life is good here and we are all missing you. Janet PS Paper cranes???? who knew you had so many hidden talents!!!!