Northern India, part I

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Namaste,

How's everyone doing? I've been back home for a bit over a month now and so it's about time I start writing again. I have received many encouragements from friends and family to do so, specially since it's been a long time since my last travelogue. So I'll start writing and sending out the remaining travelogues of my trip. This first installment starts off where I last left you back in September in India. My friend Nicole and I had just arrived in Manali after a 2 day overland trip from Leh. For more on the ordeals we went through on that journey, read my last update on Ladakh, a region in India that is filled with Ladakhi people who share a similar a proud culture similar to and related to the Tibetan culture.

Strangely enough, being in Manali felt as though we had left a country and returned to India. We had not crossed any international border, yet we had crossed a religious border, from the Tibetan Buddhist in Ladakh to the Hindu that inhabit the majority of India. Manali is a pleasant little town in the Himalayas located in the state of Himachal Pradesh. The isolation that exists in Ladakh is no longer present here so the scenery is quite green due to the vast rain it receives, particularly during the monsoon season. The evergreens in and around town are outstanding and makes it a good place to laze around for a while. For those interesting in treks, you can certainly start a few from here, including some that take you to the Parvati Valley. We didn't stay long in Manali so we had to maximize what little time we had here in this visit. We started off by paying a visit to the Dhungri Village, which is located at the top of a hill/mountain. We followed this lovely walk the hill thru a fine pine tree forest. Taking the road at times, we were surprised to see several marijuana plants growing on the side of the road. No wonder many travelers come here and abuse that substance. Let me tell you, it's everywhere around here! Near the top of the hill lies the Hadimba Devi Temple. It is made entirely out of wood and boasts a large footprint inside said to be that of Hadimba (said to be an incarnation of Kali), wife of Bhima. The small, 1 meter high, entrance is surrounded by intricate detailed wood carvings of various mythological animals. Outside the temple, one can find a wide range of vendors. One of them was showing off this cute little fluffy Angola rabbit, which was happily rented to tourists who wanted pictures with it. Our next stop was at Vashisht, a nearby small village located on top of another hill. The views en route are worth it along as you get to see the valley below with a nice river and a dense evergreen forest. On top, this small village boasts a famous hot springs that are quite neglected and unclean. We cheated taking a taxi to the top so we took our time walking down the mountain to better appreciate the views. It didn't take long as we took a shortcut through town rather then taking the main road. Finally, we visited Manali's famous Mall. It's not a mall as we know it back home, rather it's a street filled with interesting shops and restaurants. It is located right in the heart of the new town.

We had no time to waste so later that evening; we took a bus to Dharamshala. The scenery right after leaving Manali was stunning as the bus drove down a gorge and thru a stunning evergreen forest. It made me wished we had taken a day bus, but as there was none we were stuck taking in this amazing scenery at night. We reached Dharamshala at 4AM and barely awake we managed to take a taxi up to McLeodganj, a nearby town (9 km away) located high atop a mountain. The taxi dropped us at the main square. From there, we walked like crazy to Bhagsu, the up and coming backpacker hangout in this area that I will cover in more detail in a few paragraphs. We only learned about Bhagsu as we followed a pair of Israelis only to find it too developed and full of other Israelis. We had enough walking so we took another taxi back to McLeodganj. This time we found a lovely hotel operated by a guy from Kashmir. I'm glad we did as it was just in time to catch a spectacular sunrise over the valley. As it turned out, the hotel turned out to be overlooking this beautiful valley leading down to Dharamshala. This we discovered at the dawn of the new day. We couldn't have picked a better place! Plus it was right on our budget (a few dollars a night).

We had a late start the next day as we both overslept recuperating from the long bus ride from the day before. We set out to walk around McLeodganj. This town was a minor settlement built by the British during colonial times. It wasn't until Tibetan refugees settled here that it attracted the eyes of the world. See, the Dalai Lama along with many monks and government officials live here in exile. In fact, the Tibetan Government in exile resides on this very town along the road to Dharamshala. As one can expect, tourists come in droves to attempt to see the Dalai Lama. He periodically offers audiences to his many visitors. Permits are obtained at the Security Office. Unfortunately for us, the Dalai Lama fell ill during our visit and was unavailable. We kept our chins out and decided to do the best of our visit. The town itself is interesting enough. It has many alleys filled with stores, hotels, and restaurants owned and operated by Tibetan refugees. Therefore, it has a Tibetan feeling to it. It is an amazing place for this alone. One of the many interesting stores available is the Green Shop, which offers tons of environmentally friendly products, such as an inexpensive refill of your water bottles. Give the environment a chance and refill the bottles will ya 😊. On a Sunday, the main arteries in town fill up with impromptu vendors selling tons of Tibetan, Indian, and Kashmiri souvenirs to the tourists. There are also more established shops selling books, clothes, fabrics, jewelry, and more junk. Later on that day, we signed up for a Momo Cooking course at Sangye's Kitchen. Momo is the Tibetan version of the Chinese dumplings. The Tibetans make this in all sorts of flavors and varieties. Today, we learned how to cook vegetable momos, potato momos, spinach momos, and chocolate momos. The hardest part was to get the shapes right. We also learned how to make a big juicy spring roll. The class took a few hours and was tons of fun. In the end, we all ate our beautiful creations. Later that evening, we met up with Brian, a crazy French guy, who was flying thru the Indian Sub-continent. I mean that as his trip would take him from Leh to Darjeling and into Nepal seeing everything along the way in 4 weeks! Jeez, I didn't even make it to Darjeling in five months in the sub-continent! How he was planning on doing it only god knows?

The next day was jammed packed with visits to the surrounding areas. We started off by walking thru a scenic trail that starts outside of town and cuts into a pristine evergreen forest leading to the Dip Tse-Chok Ling Gompa (Monastery). The temple was filled with Torma, a religious Tibetan sculpture made out of butter and painted in all sorts of colorful colors. The shrine itself was centered on the large Buddha statue. Outside, you could enjoy a great view of the valley bellow. We left the Gompa and headed to another one, the Nechung Gompa. We took plenty of wrong turns along the forest trail though and ended up lost in no time 😊. We would have been in trouble had it not been for the kind monks that showed us the way. Funny enough, the walk was pleasant as it had eye-catching views of the valley below and was surrounded by a thick evergreen forest as well. So, Nicole and I didn't mind the detour at all. We were content though when we finally hit the main road going down the mountain. We didn't overshoot the decent at all. In fact, we were still quite a bit uphill from the Gompa. We walked down the road and came up to the Central Tibetan Administration in exile. The compound was filled with Tibetan government offices serving the Tibetan people and their cause, including the Tibetan Parliament in exile. As is tradition, there is a Gompa on the government grounds called Gangchen Kyishong. It has an impressive Buddha statue and a lovely hall where monks have their pujas (prayer/chants). Perhaps the highlight of the visit to the government compound was a delicious lunch at the cafeteria. It is not only tasty, but quite affordable as well! We kept on walking down the mountain until we came across the Nechung Gompa. It was interesting indeed, with an impressive Buddha statue inside. We changed directions and headed back up the mountain towards McLeodganj. We came across the Dalai Lama Residence. I was amazed to see so much security in the entrance. The Namgyal Monastery in the same compound is a Buddhist school of dialects known as Little Lhasa among the monks studying here. The Tsuglagkhang Gompa is a religious temple resembling the originally one in Lhasa and boasts the same significance for devotees, most of who cannot revisit their homeland as it's occupied by China. Inside, the temple boasts impressive large statues of Buddha, Avalokitesvara, and Padmasambhava. The Kalachakra Temple nearby is full of interesting murals of mandalas. A visit to the Dalai Lama's residence wouldn't be complete without a snack or drink at the Namgyal Cafe, owned and operated by Tibetans. They are proud of their place and should be as they offer one of the best coffees in India! The setting inside is pleasant with pictures of the owner posing with famous actors that have visited the cafe. It was a welcomed refuge to the pouring rain that started falling right after our visit to the gompas.

Nicole had injured her knee the day before and so after having breakfast with her I took off on my own to explore the surrounding areas. I took a bus down the mountain to visit Dharamashala. The scenery going down the mountain was stunning as the bus took the slow winding road through forest and more. I went ahead and sorted my train ticket and got some money out of the ATM in town, but other then that there is not much to brag about. I went back to McLeodganj to visit the Tibetan Museum, which had been closed the day before. It has an interesting exhibit on Tibetan history, particularly about the current Chinese occupation of their country. It also covers the struggles the Tibetan refugees face as they flee their homeland and as they adapt to their new homes. It finished with a bright hope on the future, one without the Chinese occupying Tibet. I had the better half of the day ahead of me so I decided to revisit Bhagsu, which is a nice pleasant 2 km walk from town. I walked along the road overlooking the valley below. The town of Bhagsu came as a strong contrast to McLeodganj as it has a famous Hindu temple worshiped by pilgrims from all over, which also has a pool where locals swim. It also boasts a spectacular waterfall, about 1 km from town that is easily reached via a decent path. I met up with Nicole later that day to see "Escape from Tibet," a documentary about Tibetan refugees that fled Tibet.

I spend the better half of the next day chilling out and talking with Nicole as I waited for my bus to Pathankot. Nicole's knee hadn't heeled at all so she couldn't move around. We went cafe-hopping, visiting 3 cafes that day. It was sad to part from Nicole, but our paths where taking us to different directions. She was on the verge of going home and so was on her way back to Delhi. I had more time and would continue on south, slowly making my way to Delhi. As it turned out, the best route to Rishikesh from Dharamshala was by taking a bus to the town of Pathankot and from there an overnight train. In India, train travel is more comfortable and so at this point taking a direct 15 hour bus ride was out of the question. As a girl put it back in Rajasthan, it's sometimes best to take 3 times longer to reach a destination by train then having to endure a long bus ride 😊. As luck had it, I immediately befriended a fellow backpacker, Sahar. We met on the bus and soon found out both of us where headed the same way. The bus ride was spectacular as it went down the mountains for the better part of the 4 hours as it gradually made its way to the lowlands. I can still remember the green scenery from the farms and forest in between the towns. We arrived in the early evening and so still had a few hours before the night train. So Sahar and I went out for dinner at what appeared to be the fanciest restaurant in town. Both of us where on a budget, but tonight we decided to splurge and pay $2 for a meal....hehehe 😊. It was a wonderful meal complemented by a delicious Punjabi lassi.

We returned to the train station and waited for our train. A local fellow approached us and began a casual conversation. It never to amazes me the personal questions that transpire on a casual conversation between strangers in India. The people back home are so sensitive and shy about stuff, but here they let it all out. You can expect people to ask you if you are married, how much you earn, and other personal questions. The conversation with this guy quickly shifted to the relationships between females and males in India. The guy thought Sahar and I where a couple when he saw us together. We quickly corrected him by telling him we just met a few hours ago. He was shocked! He simply couldn't believe we would talk to each other as just friends, getting so "close" in so few hours. Close? Man, we were barely friends. We had just met by pure chance as it's usually the case among backpackers. This local guy we were talking to was in his mid twenties, from a small city, and from a traditional Hindu background. He went on talking about his relationships and how all of his friends are male, not by choice though. In his society, close friendships with girls are frowned upon. Marriages are usually arranged by the fathers/parents. He did talk to girls, but only on special occasions such as parties. If he where to date a girl he said they wouldn't be allowed to touch each others hand, let alone other personal ways of showing affection, until they got married. It doesn't surprise me at all know to see how close and affectionate men are to each other over here. Sadly, it would be unheard of for him to be talking to a girl like Sahar. The only reason he approached us was that he started talking to me thinking Sahar was my wife! On the other side of the equation, I notice that males bond in ways unheard of on the west. They hold hands or even the fingers as they walk and talk to each other. They will hug in a closer more personal fashion as well. So girls, don't you go thinking the Indian men are gay, not at all!

Rishikesh is renown all over India and the world as a yoga and meditation hub. People from all over visit this town to stay at Ashrams to undergo courses in meditation and yoga. There are courses for all levels of expertise from novice to experts. In the last few years, the city has also attracted charlatans that trick people into believing they are gurus or sadhus. They often dress or act like the real thing so it's hard to figure out which is the right person for you. I would advice anyone going for a yoga course to try several masters before signing up for a class. Anyway, we arrived to Rishikesh the following day around noon. Sahar and I searched for a room for over an hour before settling at a guest house across the Ganga River past the Ram Jhula Bridge. After settling in, we went for a walk around the area. It felt like being in a Hindu version of Disneyland. No, there were no rides, but some of the Hindu statues felt like the statues on the Alice in Wonderland gardens at Disneyland. The statues of Hindu gods in town are usually painted with bright colorful shades and are made in a fantastic unreal fashion. It's actually an interesting experience so long as you don't expect an ancient feel to the place. We are staying on the east bank of the Ganga River and as such we had to cross one of the impressive suspension bridges connecting the two shores (no car traffic allowed on this bridge). It's nice to walk across it as you get to see how fast the river flows. As to be expected, there are a series of interesting shops and restaurants along the two shores and near the bridges. The Eastern side of the Ganga is the touristy place with tons of restaurant and tourist shops. It's still interesting as the lanes are small and with little traffic. It's not until you walk towards the edge of town where you begin to see some traffic, mainly taxis that take tourist to the nearby sites. We stopped at one of the Ghats and dipped our feet in the Ganga in hopes that the purifying water will sooth them from all the walking. A Ghat can best be described as a series of wide steps leading down the bank of a sacred river, in this case the Ganga. Pilgrims use them to access the holy waters of the river. For sunset, we went to the rooftop terrace of the guesthouse to admire the sun setting over the mountainside. We then took off again to see the locals bathing and purifying themselves in the Ghats. In this particular ghat, men and women are segregated, each with their own side. Segregated is a wrong word though, as I noticed women where allowed into the men's section, but not the other way around. In Indian society, women are quite traditional and reserved so show very little skin. Continuing walking along the ghats, we spotted candles floating down the Ganga River. They where burning in a leaf that allowed it to float down the river. This is just another of the religious acts performed nightly by pilgrims coming to the Ganga River. Rishikesh is one of the sacred cities for Hindus, particularly as it's so close to the source of the Ganga River. We finished our walk by walking to the other side of the river to admire the lights of the East bank from the other side.

Holly cow! I was a shit magnet today. As you all know, the cows are sacred and venerated in India. Rishikesh is no exception and since it is a holly site it is full of them. They live in town, walking the streets all day, eating whatever they can get their hands on, including plastic and trash. At times I feel bad for them, but other times like today my patience worse down. I can't remember how many times I stepped on a pile of shit! I can't help it though. I'm here looking at the sites, admiring the complexity and beauty of them. There are few times I find myself looking on the floor/road, let alone probing for piles of shit. So, it's not unheard of to step on a pile or two a day. How some travelers travel with sandals in India I don't know?!? I would have grown tired of cleaning my feet! Perhaps they just don't clean their feet... awe, that would be so gross no?

We started the following day by walking from the Ram Jhula (Bridge) to the Lakshman Jhula. It was a pleasant walk as it started off at the shore of the Ganga River and then veered inland through a forested road. Our first stop was at the Swargashram, an interesting place filled with bright colorful Disneyland style statues depicting all sorts of Hindu deities. The path continued along a long wall that was populated with a family of monkeys. They are playful creatures. Just be careful as they are tricky as hell. They could grab any food from your hands/pockets in no time. I preferred the cows today as they where more docile, eating out the scraps of fruit we had. Let me tell you, they love the skin of a pomelo (large yellow-orange citrus fruit similar to a large grapefruit). So next time you buy one in India, save them to feed the cows... it goes for a good cause 😊. The forest thins out and stores become ever popular as you approach the Lakshman Jhula. Next, we hopped on a rickshaw and headed to Triveni Ghat at the western shore of the Ganga River. I was looking for a truly spiritual place, but it felt more like visiting a beach. So we kept on walking along the old part of town going inland from the river. We visited the beautiful Bharat Mandir temple, which is the oldest in the city. It has a simple Hindu statue in honor of Lord Hrishikesh, a reincarnation of Vishnu. The town itself is named after this statue, this temple. We then went back across the Ram Jhula. We went to the ghat where we had put our feet yesterday to pay respect to the Ganga River, the holly river. The water at this point is clean as it has just left the glacial waters at its origin. So, I went ahead and took the plunge into the cold and chilly Ganga River. The water was mixed with a lot of sand and sediments. We then sat down on the same area to watch pilgrims and how they came and purify themselves. Most even drank from the river, unafraid of any parasites it may have. Why should they if this is a holly river? Of particular interest were the fathers taking their sons in to the river holding their hands as they took their first plunge into this holly place. Later that afternoon, we went to the Ghats by the clock tower to attend the daily evening Arati (ceremony). We got their early to get a good spot to see. It was a truly spiritual experience as we got to see the event unfold. The place was all set up for the event and one could tell they have put money into it. There where fire pits burning on the edge of the river and on top of a platform. The young priests/monks and the guru chanted and clapped their hands along with the pilgrims in unison as they said prayers to the Hindu gods. The priests/monks were quite young. Each had their head shaved completely, except for a ponytail hanging from the back. At one point, one of the older monks/priests brought out a huge candle in the shape of a cobra. He then lights this candle and then began moving it in circles following a ritual that must be thousands of years old. It was a wonderful site as it was set in this peaceful ghat overlooking the Ganga River. The only odd thing I noticed was that the guru was wearing what appeared to be a very expensive gold watch! Common, must every religion out there be corrupt?

The next morning, Sahar and I took a bus to visit the nearby town of Hardiwar. The Ganga River flows through this religious city and as such it too receives many pilgrims. According to archeologist, Hardiwar is one of the oldest cities in the world. It also carries the distinction as being one of the seven holy cities of Hinduism as there is a footprint of Vishnu in the river located at the Vishnu gate. Our first stop in town was at the Moti Bazaar, which follows the edge of the river. It shares all the qualities that make a bazaar in India interesting. It is colorful and crowded with interesting fragrances and smell. Interestingly enough it's actually a bit clean and tidy compare to other bazaars of its size. You can find lots of religious stores, bookstores focusing on yoga and meditation, clothes stores, sari stores, jewelry shops, brass and aluminum products stores, candy/food stores, and many more. We kept on walking to Mansa Devi Temple, which is accessible by foot or cable car. We took the cable car up as it allowed us to enjoy some killer vistas. The temple has a long history, yet it has a modern feel to it after it's most recent renovation. It was crowded with pilgrims and at times it was too much to bear. Overall though, I'd say it's worth it for the view of the Ganga River and the surrounding plains. The highlight of the visit though was at Hari Ki Pairi Ghat. We arrived early to walk around the many steps, temple, and clock tower in the area. It's not much at day, other then its prime location along the Ganga River. The place comes to life at nights with the Ganga Arati (ceremony) at sunset. Prepare to be enlightened by one of the oldest ceremonies on the planet. The place begins to get packed about an hour before sunset. There are people on both sides of the Ganga and on an island nearby. The Arati was short and brief, but quite spiritual. It is beyond imagination. The best way to describe it is by making a comparison of it with the ceremony depicted in the movie "Congo." I'm referring to the point where the tribal people are worshiping a god; chanting and putting their hands up and down. In a similar way, the Hindus will chant and raise their hands in prayer to their gods. The candles in a shape of a cobra, probably a naga, where lighted again and waved in circle as a ritual. Perhaps the only downer of this experience was the "donation police" that demanded money right when you where enjoying the ceremony. I don't have any problems donating, but there is something about it when they demand it from you in a pushing manner. After that part, the people lighted floating candles with flowers and set them on the river. They floated down river bringing the river alive with lights.

We arrived late at night back in Rishikesh so as it was expected we had a lazy start the next day. I met up with Sahar for lunch at the delicious Madras Cafe. We then went across Lakshman Jhula as we walked thru the stores and the like. We were not up for a long hike today so we took a taxi to the start of the trek to the Garur Chatti waterfall. It lies at the side of the highway. The ride was amazing as the old 50's style ambassador taxi drove us through the green forested road. The walk to the waterfall was through a spectacular forest as well. It didn't took long as it was about 1/2 a km. The waterfall was situated on a gorgeous peaceful gorge. We cooled of in its icy cold refreshing water. Afterwards, I said my farewells to Sahar as I took a bus to Hardiwar to get a connecting bus to Agra. And what a ride that was! Let me tell you, it was a bus from hell. It was an old beaten normal government bus. You could tell it's seen its better days. I sat near the front on a bench designed to sit 2 people. As usual, it soon meant I was sharing the bench with a smelly guy that kept pushing me towards the window. I don't know what it is about benches, but Indians like to sit close to each other, as far away as the isle as possible. They are not shy about it either. I did my best to ask him for some breathing room, but in the end we where caught in a tag war. Eventually, the people on the bench next to us left the bus and he changed sits. I ended up with the bench the last few hours of the ride. Thus, I got a few hours of sleep.

The bus dropped us right in front of the impressive Red Fort of Agra. I was aiming at a different fort though so I took a smaller bus to the small village of Fatehpur Sikri. One of the most impressive Mogul era forts lies in the heart of this village. It's a remnant of the prosperity of a long forgotten time. One of India's famous rulers, Mogul Akbar, built the fort in honor of Sheikh Salim Chishtis. Akbar had many wives, yet at 26 he had no heir. The saint had promised Akbar that he will have three boys. The prophecy came true and in honor of it Akbar built a new capital city in the home town of the holly man, at Sikri. He also modified the name by adding the word Fatehpur, which means town of victory before the town name of Sikri. Thus, Fatehpur Sikri means "Sikri, the town of victory." Sadly, this town served as capital to the Mogul empire for only a few decades as the capital was moved soon after Akbar's death. The town soon faded away to history with only the fort reminding the outsiders of the once glorious city.

Fatehpur Sikri Fort consists of three parts or sections. The fort is made out of red sandstone. The first place I visit was the impressive Jami Masjid (Mosque), the second largest mosque in India. It has two impressive gates: the King gate on the East and the public entrance on the South. As you enter the premises, you notice the grandeur of this mosque as you walk through the vast courtyard. The most sacred area is the tomb of the saint Sheikh Salim Chishtis, located on the northwest side of the compound. It is made out of white marble. Pilgrims still come to this tomb and ask for a wish - mainly to have a son such as the one granted to Akbar. The west side of the compound houses a replica of the mosque in Mecca.

The second place I visited in Fatehpur Sikri was the Palace complex, which carries an overpriced $5 USD admission. All I have to say is that it is well worth the price! You enter the compound through the ruins of the old stables. You then walk through the Raja Birbal's Palace, a beautiful 2 story building with intricate carvings. It was build for Akbar's Hindu Prime Minister. I then walked through the ladies gardens en route to the Panch Mahal, a 5 story pavilion with each floor being smaller then the one before (giving it a pyramid-like view). The next stop was at the Jodh Bais palace, which also boasts impressive stone carvings. It was built for the daughter of the Maharaja (ruler) of Amber, the wife of Akbar. Continuing on the self-guided tour, I came across a courtyard that overlooks the Diwan-I-Khas (Hall of Private Audience). This large courtyard has a lovely pond with several cross bridges with pillars that reflected marvelously on the waters below. Continuing on, I came across the Turkish Sultana's House, which has intricate carvings inside that depict animals in exotic gardens. Outside, it features different geometric shapes with Islamic decorations. Back on the courtyard, I came across the worlds largest Parcheesi Board, which was one of Akbar's favorite spots. This life-size board required human players as tokens to play it. Thus, Akbar used to play games using slaves dressed in different colors. It goes to tell you the type of wealth the Moguls had. I then entered the Diwan-I-Khas, a two story building that has a luxurious throne pillar inside. It is intricately decorated with Muslim, Hindu, Christian, and Buddhist motives in line with Akbar's tolerance to all religions. It is connected by four cross bridges on the second story. The nearby Diwan-I-Am (Hall of Public Audience) was under renovation when I visited so I couldn't go inside. I can expect it to be a bit more austere as it was used for public, rather then private audiences.

The jewel of Fatehpur Sikri lies outside of the palace and mosque compounds. One can spend a few hours exploring the ruins in the surrounding areas and taking in the life that evolves around it. I started out by visiting the Mint House. I then had a surprise encounter as I bump into the two Ukrainians I had met in Kargil a month or so ago. What a small world! They had taken my advice and had managed to do the Amarnath Cave Yatra (pilgrimage trek) in Kashmir. We talked for a bit and then they had to go as they were catching an overnight train leaving from Agra in a few hours. It was still nice to see them again. That's the beauty of traveling... You never know who you will bump to over and over again! I continued walking and came across the Hathi Pol (Hathi means elephant and Pol means gate in Hindi). You can truly admire the striking red sandstone used for the construction of the gate and the rest of the fort. As you climb to the top, you can see several herders keeping an eye on their water buffalo heard. Then there are the sheperds with their flock of goats. I kept on walking until I came across this weird looking Spike Tower that probably served as a lookout tower for the guards outside the fort. It offers a strategic view of the river and valley. From the top you can also get a good view of the entire fortress.

Later that evening, I met a group of Polish backpackers, Hubert, Gosia, Kasia, and Anna, who where staying at the same hotel. One of the girls was celebrating their 21st birthday tonight and so the Indian host had thrown them a big feast with cake and all. I had already eaten dinner, but was still invited to join in on the festivities. It was a blast! Towards the end, Hubert brought out a bottle of Polish herbal vodka and we drank quite a bit as we cheered to the birthday girl.

I met up with the group from Poland and together we went to visit Agra. They where traveling on a tight budget as I was so we tried to sneak into the Taj Mahal, which charges a steep entrance fee. We walked across the perimeter and found it impossible to sneak into the place. So in the end we coughed up the money, 750 Indian Rupees (about $15 USD). It pisses me off that the locals pay a mere 20 Indian Rupees to get in to the same monument. Alas, it's one of the jewels of India and no visitor should live the country without a visit. The Taj Mahal is a tomb constructed by Shah Jahan for his favorite wife. It truly has to be one of the greatest acts of love ever made in human history. Sadly, it proved too costly to the Mogul Empire as it was already past its prime and so had no need for frivolous spending. In order to enter the compound, you must pass through an airport-like entrance inspection where they remove all unwanted and hazardous items (cell phones, lighters, weapons, torches, food, etc). You enter the compound through a gate that leads to the gardens on the foreground. It is here that you notice the famous fountain and pools that allow for a view of the Taj Mahal that reflects in the crystal blue water. You have to wonder in awe at the sheer size of the Taj Mahal, especially after you compare it to the people walking along the grounds of the tomb. As you approach the monument, you start seeing intricate carvings on the immaculate white marble. It is hard to believe it is all made of marble. You have to remove your shoes to go inside the tomb. Once inside, notice how the embedded gems in the walls shine thru when they are lit by a torch (how the guides can bring a torch when it's illegal escapes my mind). The tomb inside is covered with traditional Muslim offerings. Centuries after her life, pilgrims come to honor the death of his favorite wife. I left the tomb and went to the mosque on the west (built facing towards Mecca). It had an interesting set of murals and paintings in traditional Muslim design. All this touring made us hungry so we went to Shankar Veggie restaurant and had a delicious lassi that came with excellent views of the Taj Mahal from the rooftop terrace!

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Comments

[sharaths.r]

its very nice
i am so happy to see abeautiful pictures