Fleeing from catapulted melons (X)


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Middle East » Iran » North » Ardabil
June 25th 2007
Published: August 15th 2007
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Library niche detail
By coincedence, Japanese and Persian have identical phrases which are completely different in meaning. Hence, a little Japanese dialogue with a fellow JP tourist could result to disaster. Two Japanese women ran up to me, freaking out when a bunch of curious Iranian locals pointed at them shouting 'Shinei! Shinei!' - they were merely saying 'Chinese?' but in Japanese, this is an imperative command meaning 'Die!'.

In the marketplace, some Japanese tourists and I noticed the bizarre form of watermelons on display. to this, we said the phrase 'Hendawane~' (meaning 'how odd!'). Hearing our conversation, the fruit vendor smiled and gave us three watermelons for free. we were puzzled, but accepted them anyway. Other fruit vendors nearby did the same, and some of them decided to just throw them at us like bloody hotcakes. One barely missed my head as I ducked.

It turns out that 'hendawane' translates to 'watermelon' in persian, and patriotic Iranians are always over-thrilled to hear foreigners speak their language.

I left Tabriz and continued onto Ardabil, a city established in the late 5th century. Furthermore, it's a prominent city due to the fact that Shah Ismail of the famous Safavid dynasty came from
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Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum, checking out the library
here. The Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum is the highlight here with its glorious 'Allah Allah tower' (named so because of the kufic tile-work stating 'Allah' all over the tower in repetition). Ismail is buried here alongside many of his family members. This is a 13th century architectural gem full of generous tilework and history.

The library is quite a spectacle. Like the Ali Qapu palace in Isfahan, the walls have beautiful niched walls decorated in gold. The vast room definitely made my jaw drop as I saw the beehive-like walls surrounding me. The main dome of the mausoleum is intricately decorated and extremely high up in the air that I marvelled at its greatness.

Later on, I proceeded onto my long bus ride to the Azerbaijani border town of Astara. Astara is a little town without much to savor historically, but provides a glimpse of traditional farming and rural way of life. Here, I bugged my guide constantly as we looked out into the distance asking 'Is THAT Azerbaijan?' 'No? What about that house over there?'
And at the river acting as the border between the nations, 'Is that plastic bottle in the river in Azerbaijan?'

On
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Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum
the way to Astara, there are several huts along the road selling honey. This region is famous for its delicious honey, and I did have fun sampling them while stopping on steep hills beside the highway.


Additional photos below
Photos: 15, Displayed: 15


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Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum, Allah Allah tower
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Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum, within the complex
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Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum, allah allah tower
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Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum, the beautiful library
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Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum, the courtyard
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Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum, the courtyard
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Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum, the main hall
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Sheikh Safi-edin Ardabily Mausoleum, the main entrance
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Grave of Ismail's Christian mother - asshe wasn't a muslim, she had to be laid to rest outside the complex
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The amazing niches in the main hall
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The high dome
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detail of hall decoration


26th June 2007

Good photos
I like your photos, and the story of the Iranian market is very amusing!
19th July 2007

You rule!
Love your work on exposing the friendly, loveable truth about Iran!
20th July 2007

Dear Bobby!
Cheers, thanks for reading;-) i'm merely stating the truth that i witnessed in Iran, that is...the fantastic cultural observations, similarities with japanese culture (well, we learned it from the Persians) and the magnificent hospitality i received there. you shouldnt thank me, but it is I who must thank Iran and its people. Kheili-Mamnoon!
25th November 2007

Wow Yuki...
It is amazing to hear that you say, "(well, we learned it from the Persians)". As an Persian Zoroastrian, I am very flattered to hear you say that. I do always have had a deep respect for the Japanese culture and people. I felt that there is a connection.

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