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Published: August 8th 2007
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For 4 nights we headed out to the West MacDonnell Ranges after wandereding around Alice for a bit, and made some phone calls before we headed out. The Gorge spots to look at are all in a 140Km line and after a quick preview of some of the earlier gorges, we ended up at Orminston Gorge and set up camp for a few days. The camp spot is inside the Gorge with magnificent cliffs all the way around. Had some fantastic sunsets with the clouds still present over the Gorge.
The first night called for a great dinner of grilled whiting, chips and a tossed salad. Not bad for bush camping, although Orminston Gorge is reasonable well fitted out with toilets, showers and BBQs for the bush campers. Of all the Gorge’s, Orminston is the best kitted out, although there is a 12 month development plan for some of the other locations to bring up their facilities. While we appreciated the showers and flushing toilets, it does seem a shame to be installing facilities everywhere as it reduces people’s choice of experience, which is from total bush camping with no facilities, to the range at Orministon Gorge.
Next failure:
Sunset at Orminston Gorge
Deep Cycle Battery (dual) in the car stopped working (dropped AMPS) so we had some issues with keeping the fridge cold. Had to move the fridge into the camper overnight which powered it nicely.
Woke up to a brisk cool morning. After breakfast did the Ghost Gum walk up to the top of the gorge and then down through the middle. Some of the rock formations and how they came about are fascinating. The walk took about 90 minutes, with the first 45 minutes up to the lookout which had a great track, but the continuation was tough going on the downhill with loose rocks and boulders being the order of the trip.
Got back to camp and Bruce headed into Alice to get the battery fixed. I stayed and bummed around and watched some incredibly large caravans come into the camping area and try and park. One van was so large, the guy and his wife communicated, while he was reversing, using handheld UHF sets, because there was no way in hell he could hear from all the way back there at the back of the van. The smell of burning Cruiser clutch
Orminston Gorge
The Lookout we climbed up to was at the far end, with a single tree. weighed heavily in the air for sometime after that episode. Bruce returned after a quick round trip of 250Kms saying that the deep cycle battery needed to be replaced, which was done and we moved the fridge back into the car and all is working.
Next day was off to the Ochre Pits, a place held sacred by the local Aborigines who use the various coloured rocks in a powder to colour themselves, mainly for cultural events. A lot was made about what couldn’t be said, specifically around that the collection of Ochre and the ceremonial attached was a closely held secret which only tribal men could know. Bit sad really when you come to learn about the Aborigines’ use of Ochre just to be told that it’s a secret. Regardless, the different layers of rock and the unusual erosion pattern has allowed the exposure of the different colours, which was still quite a sight.
Off to Red Bank Gorge which was really a little disappointing to visit considering the low volume of water around at the moment. The trek was a mostly straight forward walk that ended in 300 metres of scrambling over large rocks. A sign
Signage
Someone had taken the time to creatively improve signage in the area. suggested that we could walk to the lower pools and then be ‘adventuress’ and swim up to the tightest part of the gorge to see the spectacular walls, but it was so dry we could walk. We did this in the middle of the day because of the sun’s position, but that was a error as well. It got bloody hot. Solution, back down to Glen Helen Gorge Resort for a quick fire (several) beers and some lunch. We considered taking a stroll up to the Gorge for a look but had had enough for the day.
Next day we packed up and went looking for a bush camping stop closer to Alice. Took a look at Serpentine Gorge but it had already got hot so we didn’t fancy the walk, so off to Ellery Creek Bighole to set up camp and then take a walk to look at the water hole. Very beautiful, quiet, almost serene place to visit. The camping area had a long drop and some BBQs but that was pretty much it. The people there were friendly with a surfing couple taking a swim and walking back with just their towels on. Bruce quickly noticed
(from several hundred metres) that she was twirling her G-String bikini as she walked and was convinced that it was a sign. Amanda was not convinced and diplomatic communication was not commenced. That night we joined a significantly older group of people around a camp fire to discuss politics and religion.
Last day on the way back to Alice, we visited Standley Chasm, which is managed by an Aboriginal Trust, costing $8 each to get in. Bruce wasn’t sure it was worth it, but the area is very nice with a significant change in climate and vegetation, much closer to what we have seen in NZ, not Australia. Simpson’s Gap is exactly that, but the reduced water flows had taken a little off what would have been a beautiful scene. As it was, the rugged walls and tall cliffs made it worth while to visit, suggest close to the middle of the day for the best sun effect.
Back into Alice and into mobile phone range which was fairly easy to tell with Amanda receiving 13 messages in a row, Bruce only received 3 - how times have changed. We are a bit concerned that the Tanami Track
may be closed due to rain and poor conditions. Will have to wait and see.
NextG phone handset performing okay. Furthest coverage west of Alice was at 34Kms, but only on ridges or high spots, but was getting a few bars even there. Range appears to be easily limited in the fringes by trees and hills with dips dropping coverage completely and it is very undulating country out west. Internet works great when in range and was able to make and receive calls/sms with no bars on the display, yet there was enough coverage to make calls. I would seriously consider an external aerial car kit for future trips.
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Steve G
non-member comment
Love the Dinosaur sign :-)
Hi Guys, Sounds like you are having a great time - despite your little problems. The photos at Simpson's Gap are identical to ones I took back in June 2005 !! There was no water there then either. Keep the entries coming Cheers Steve