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Published: July 31st 2005
Claudia, Emily and me
Happy times at Scarborough BeachThe anticipation that I felt as I stepped off the bus in Capetown had been building up for the entire 22 hour journey. I was not planning for the same adventures of Zambia or Namibia, but rather some quality time with a dear friend that had returned to her home in South Africa. When Claudia hollered my name from her car opposite the bus depot, I skipped across the road-even with my 20 kilo pack on! Isn't it crazy how some situations can make you feel like a kid again? We took the scenic drive to the house and I couldn't help beamig from ear to ear. This is partly because I soon had an ice cream in hand as we walked around Camps Bay with the third princess on the trip, little Emily. I am not broody, but I appreciate meeting cute adorable kids who's nappy I don't have to change.
The drive continued through Hout Bay and along the famous Chapman's Peak. Apart from the temperature and palm trees, Capetown was establishing more similarities in my mind to Vancouver. The Sea to Sky highway up to Whistler also has areas of cliffs straight up and then down
Claudia and Emily
Happy times at Scarborough Beach to the ocean. This similarity resulted in a return to the conversation that Claudia and I had had many times whilst living together in London. Where in the world is the most beautiful city to live in? I of course have always argued Vancouver, but I might now agree to Capetown being a close second. Any other nominations or support for Vancouver?
When we pulled into the Capri/Noordoek area I was bowled over by Claudia's animals running up to greet us. Her house sits on a stunning corner looking out towards the Atlantic. After a couple of months of tents and hostels, putting my feet up in front of the telly while a washing machine thoroughly cleaned and freshened my handwashed clothes...nothing could be better!
The next week filled up at a very relaxing pace with trips to the postoffice, breakfast at the local hotspot and browsing the shops. As there are so many spots of natural beauty around each corner, it was easy to fulfill my tourist desires with a simple drive down the road. We went to a beach called Scarborough and had such a laugh with Emily playing in the most incredible light.
Emily and Me
The kiddie workout! If only we could attach sound clips of the giggles with each photo! The mist was cool too! The 'Misty Cliffs' beside this beach created a backdrop that professional photographers would gawp at. Another day we went to Simons Town to have a look at the penguins at Boulders Beach. Seeing these little tuxedo'd birds waddle along the shoreline of the beach is a slight contradiction in most peoples' minds' as to where they should be living, but they seemed pretty happy there. Another day ended with a meal that most South Africans would define as their national tradition; a Brai at the house with all the family and Bourvous sausages. (made with ostrich meat) I am brought back to the Canadian lifestyle comparison as I certainly have family members that will bar-b-que with a golf umbrella under the pounding rain, although it's not often we have a chance to throw an ostrich on the coals!
I then ventured over to a hostel in Capetown for a few days to relieve Claudia of her chaperoning duties. I was hoping to cram a couple of adventures in if possible, but just my luck that as soon as I arrived the weather made a turn for the worse! So I went to the art gallery (for you Frances!!)
Mom and daughter
Even running away you know they're having fun! and the museum. Each time I left the hostel, I was strongly advised to carry nothing with me and find somebody to walk with. And to not even attempt walking at night. A girl was mugged just 2 blocks away from the hostel at 12:00 in the afternoon, so people were much more alert to the dangers that the city presented. It does make you think, but thinking ahead of time is what helps us avoid these situations in the first place. I felt like I was in a dangerous environment, I but tricked the dangers back into hiding with a secret confidence. And I had my credit card in my sock, my cash in my bra and walked like a tough guy.
The weather cleared up a bit the following day, so I joined a couple of South Africans from the hostel on a tour over to Robben Island. Brothers Blaine and Morgan had driven down from Durban in a hot rodding American truck. It was a great pleasure to be cruising around town with these young lads. Blaine and I had a chance to look around a different area of town.(Morgan was getting the truck tuned
Flying Child
My lie down break time didn't last long-there are always games to be played!! up) Now you should be able to see by the pictures that the houses in this area are pretty bright. It was a refreshing sight within the cloudy skies above Capetown!! We eventually made it down to the docks to join the tour. The seas were pretty choppy so I got my bit of adventure on the half hour boat ride to the island. Robben Island is where many political prisoners were kept, including Nelson Mandela for 27 years. Walking around, it was easy to get lost as I lagged at the end of the group taking every possible photo. Unfortunetly the photos aren't amazing and I initially blamed my disposable camera. In reality however, the sights were rusted bars and neglected corners within a prison, and I think that's the sad reason they're not amazing photos. The tour leader had been a prisoner there himself for 11 years. Can you imagine going to work each day and facing memories like that?
That night, we managed to round up a few other folks from the hostel to join us for a meal in town. And what a meal it was. I consider myself to be an expert on
chocolate, but until this night I had never experienced it poured over roast beef! I promise you, it really was divine! It went very well with the glasses of wine we all consumed. Enough wine in the system for a few games of '2 Truths and a Lie'. The game is a great way for storytellers to tell the stories not yet experienced-although for a laugh we changed it to '2 Lies and a Truth' for awhile. I was shocked that people didn't believe me when I told them of Johnny Depp playing with my hair. What do they know?!! Eventually we decided to call it a night. I had an early morning booked to go down in a cage with some sharks 'pokin their noses in. Best not done on a hangover I suppose! When we jumped back into the back of the truck, the rains had returned. Modelling the wet look at its' finest, I attempted to impress the others with a cowboy style jump out off of the tailgate of the truck. Landing flat on my ass isn't exactly what I had intended-but I got the laugh.
At 4am I woke rehearsing the excuse I
would give to the others for not going on the shark dive. It's never actually been something I've stongly craved doing, but I have some friends in Canada that can't stop raving about it so I thought I'd try it out. As I laid in my bunk watching the spinning glasses of wine and feeling the bruise on my butt, I heard the alarm sounding the theme tune for Jaws. Time to go. How I actually managed to get out of bed and not start whimpering is beyond me. I made my way downstairs waiting to be collected. When the guy walked in looking rather wet and miserable, I looked down and dragged my feet towards him. He then managed to break through my self inflicted trance to tell me that the poor weather was too rough to take the boat out in. So yes, another booked adventure has been cancelled on me. Clearly, not meant to happen!
Claudia collected me the following day and we drove over to her sisters' house and then on to the 'Wine Route' in Stellenbosch to do some tastings. From falling out of a pickup one night to swirling merlot another, I'm
Man, dog and a surfboard
Surfing dude running away from me for some sad reason adapting to all situations! It was a great way for me to develop my knowledge of wine, as comparison makes everytrhing easier to comprehend. Although it all tasted the same by the end of the day! I bought a bottle for Claudia and I to polish off later in the week. As we continued to drive through the area to make our way home, I was blown away by the beauty of everything arouind me. The white stylized houses and the rows upon rows of grapes created a romantic look-enough for Claudia I to decide this is her perfect wedding spot. Just need to find a groom now!
The following day we took a drive down to the tip of Africa, Cape Point. The girls laughed at me as I was determined to run into the Indian ocean side for a brief swim before reaching the cliffs. Jumping in the waves was all I managed, but at least I was in! We continued the short drive and then jumped onto a fenicular railway that carried us up the last section of the upward climb. We were then standing above the sheer pointed rocks where the Indian and Atlantic
Sunset alomg Komike
Always calming to see this sort of sight oceans met and it became one of those moments in life to be remembered. The positioning of Capetown is so unique when comparing to the surroundings of where I lived in Sheffield. Of course, some of the facts that one has to face when living in Capetown could take presidence over the beauty for some people. I was disappointed to discover that it was recommended against for me to go to some of the beaches in the middle of the day on my own. And there was no chance of hiking on my own. Being an independent woman I find these facts difficult to accept. But that's the reality of life in Capetown. Aparteid may be over, but there are still some issues in day to day life.
After the fresh air of Africa, Claudia and I planned for a night at her local. Intending to be just a couple of drinks before moving on, it ended up being a quite a riot as these tequila shots kept appearing before our eyes. We couldnn't figure out if it was the cute bartender or the sleazy barfly so we just drank and carried on. We bumped into an old
Boulders Beach
Moms' need to be hung on to at all times friend of Claudia's and I missed my chance to get the gossip on her former life. Moments like these are when living abroad and travelling can get you down, as bumping into familiar faces is can be so entertaining. Whether you stay in touch with these people is another story!!
Starting the next day with such a hangover was a bit difficult, but I managed to spend some time on Long Beach. Running into the Atlantic completed my touch of the African oceans. In the afternoon when the hangover had partially subsided, Claudia and I managed to get over to Table Mountain. It was such a beautiful day and I had not yet been able to capture an opportunity to explore Capetown's tourist hotspot. And a tourist hotspot it is with good reason! We took the circulating tram to the top as the climb may have been nice, but not the way we were feeling!! As soon as we stepped foot on the plateau, my breath was taken away. Standing above the clouds (although there were barely any!) and getting the birds eye view of the land below was absolutely stunning. We continued to explore around, and then
Penguin Paradise
This guy was still lookin for a beach babe, though most often they were in smaller groups we saw my lost moment of adventure. And I really really really would have done this had I not been wearing my damn flipflops. Abseiling down the side of Table Mountain with the views of Lions Head and Signal Hill was the creme de la creme of Capetown adventure as far as I'm concerned. And I didn't even do it!! More reason to return to this amazing city! My compensation was a coffee at the top. When we reached the bottom we had a quick drive home before changing for yet another night out on the town. More reason to celebrate tonight, as it's almost my birthday! We had a lovely dinner and I even polished off a bottle of wine to myself. I must try different approaches to getting older right?
The next morning I opened the door of my room to be quickly told to go back to bed. Claudia soon brought me a birthday breakfast to start my first day at 31 with those that I love most. Caffeine and chocolate! It was the perfect start. I'm not sure if she was trying to butter me up so she could put me to work later
on in the day, but I enjoyed it nonetheless. When I sat in one of her show houses that afternoon, schmoozing to couples about this wonderful house that they should buy it did make me think that after the travels maybe this could be a future career. Too much to think about right now anyways. See what birthdays can do to you???
On the 25th I flew up to Johannesburg for a very brief stay. The city has one of the worst reputations for danger to tourists so I joined a Soweto tour from the hostel. It was interesting to see the way of life for those in a township, but difficult to accept that I was actually touring their day to day life. I know all money earned helps them, but I felt awful the way I gave it to them. We then drove over to a museum that defined the student riots from 30 years ago. Seeing the photos of police using such force towards children making a stand for what they were learning was difficult. It was a hard final day taking in all of the truths of Africa.
Eleven weeks after arriving
Claudia's Front Door View
This was a sunset not to forget in this continent I have had a glimpse of seven countries. I've experienced more than I ever could have imagined and embraced this lifestyle with a new confidence. Now I'm off for a culture shock in a new city of the world, Hong Kong. Hopefully I'll not spend all my money, although a new camera is on the list. Thanks for reading all the way to the bottom...though I'm sure the number of pictures on this particular entry with flow on! A few of you have asked for people photos, so here you go! Tell me what you think!
Fiona 😊
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Flavia
non-member comment
HAPPY B DAY !!!!!!!
A wonderful journey, a life 's experience and beautiful photos....well done!! Let see HK and rest.... Lots of love, all well in London, off to Greece this week.