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Published: April 20th 2007
Quito
After the topical heat of Central America and Columbia, arriving in the cool mountain city of Quito felt great. The second-highest capital in the world (elevation: 10,000 ft), Quito is a modern city with a well preserved historic center. Cathedrals, monasteries and plazas date from the City’s foundation in 1534.
Cuenca
We had planned to take Spanish classes in Quito, but by clicking the wrong link we registered in Cuenca, about 10 hours south of Quito. What a lucky mistake! Cuenca is a great town set in the mountains and surrounded by roaring rivers. During our stay, the City celebrated it’s 450th anniversary of foundation, joined the rest of the country in a historic vote to re-write the Ecuadorean constitution and beat futbol rival Guayaquil.
We stayed with a wonderful couple, Alejandro and Conchita. They have a beautiful house and we had our own apartment. As if our deluxe accommodations weren’t enough, Conchita’s cooking was delicious and she and Alejandro were top notch tour guides.
We studied with the very earnest Edwin. A high shool history teacher by morning and law student by night, Edwin fits in 3 hours to teach us Spanish in
the afternoons. Serious and driven, Edwin started class early and ended late. While the City celebrated its 450th birthday with massive parades and fireworks, Edwin disapproved of the money spent on the festivities. Where most people see a parade, Edwin sees what could have been 2 computer labs and a library expansion. Needless to say we learned a lot.
Braving Edwin’s disapproval, we attended the 450th anniversary parade and had a great time watching the bands, dancers, stilt walkers and Cuencan beauty queens pass by. We also saw Ecuador’s new president Rafael Correa. Three months into the job, Correa is young, handsome and seems very charismatic - the JFK of Latin America. Correa enjoyed a political victory though the decisive vote to re-write the constitution in an effort to reduce corruption and the country’s drastic economic divisions.
In the “out of the ordinary” category, we saw human shrunken heads and ate guinea pig - but not at the same time. The ‘shrunken heads’ or tsantsas, are from the Upper Amazon region shared by Peru and Ecuador. The heads from killed enemies were shrunken to pacify the spirit of the dead and resolve the conflict.
El Cuy is
Cuenca Cathedral
The largest in South America!a type of guinea pig and a local delicacy. While the claws and head are a bit off-putting, the flavor’s not bad - a mix between chicken and duck.
Our last night in town we watched Cuenca Sport Club defeat Barcelona from Guayaquil 1-0. Half the crowd brought their own fireworks to keep things lively. I loved watching the “fouls” - players fall dramatically to the ground and writhe in pain until the penalty is decided, then jump up, miraculously healed!
Guayaquil
After the cool mountain respite of Quito and Cuenca, we are back in the tropics in the Pacific Coast city of Guayaquil; the largest city in Ecuador. Our hotel is a jungled oasis in this sprawling metropolis. The “jungled” aspect was horrifyingly reinforced when I nearly stepped on a huge, furry spider while leaving our room one morning.
Following the wildlife theme, we paid a visit to the endangered species park, spotting monkeys, sloths, parrots and crocodiles in an incredible refuge. Iguanas make up the urban wildlife of Guayaquil, and trend to cluster in the City’s central plaza, lounging on park benches and statues.
Guayaquil recently rebuilt its waterfront walkway with impressive results.
Parade in Cuenca
Celebrating the 450th anniversary of the Spanish foundation of the town. This float carries some of the beauty queens. We strolled along the promenade and up the Cerro Santa Ana for a great view of the City.
Today we take a 24-hour long bus ride to Lima, Peru!
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Mandell
non-member comment
spider!
Holy shit if I saw a spider like that I would have a heart attack...I'm very arachnophobic. Also those guinea pigs look nasty...this woman who works with us is half colombian and even she was shocked!