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Published: February 22nd 2007
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Bob on a deserted beach
This is what you find if you walk away from the tourist areas PHEEEWWWWWEEEEE, we were on a train for 49 hours!!!! and we covered a distance similar to that between helsinki and madrid, but do you know what? it was one of the best train journies of my life. Nothing much happened, but it was so relaxing I was really amazed.
Bob and I started this trip not really knowing where we were going - we knew we were going somewhere, we knew we were heading for Indonesia at some point, but we were very much in need of going where the wind took us - and our trip so far has been exactly that.
We planned to head to Goa (a mere 25 hour train journey) but when we were told that there were no normal tickets left for a month, we decided that rather than faff around any more we'd just book any old ticket to the south. The ticket sellers found us rather amusing, but we booked it anyway and expected a journey full of hassle, stuck in a carriage with lots of people, no room for bags, terrible toilets, no sleep. Oh how different it was - we were booked into 3AC which means there is air con (not
particularly necessary for the north at the moment) and sets of 8 bunks - 3 facing 3 with 2 on the end if you can picture that. We expected the carriage to be full when we got on as we werent the first stop, and we planned how to secure our bags effectively and efficiently as we've heard too many stories of people being distracted by lovely friendly affluent types who then leave the train happily - walking off with stolen bags.
However, there wasnt anyone there. There was a pile of pillows and blankets on the 2 bunks on the other side of the corridor, but noone in the rest of our 8 berth section. And this didnt change throughout the entire 49 hours - so we stretched out, looked out of the window, rested, chatted to the chai sellers, read books, but most of all, leisurely planned what we might do next, and where we might get off the train. The toilets were super clean for the most part as we were sharing 2 with only about 6 other people and the train even ran on better time than any british train, getting to almost every station on
time or early (this really is unusual I'm told).
So we decided to get off close to the last stop - that left us enough time for a lie in, and soon enough, we were by the sea. The heat was, and is almost unbearable. There are people swimming in the sea and sunbathing all day long, every day (not us yet, lots of poo gets pumped into the sea just down the bay so we've been a bit squeamish on that one, though the heat makes it tempting none the less).
Oh the bliss. Honestly, after all the hassles of the north, I just could not believe it when only one rickshaw approached us leisurely at the train station and offered us a ride at a really reasonable price.
It is ridiculously overrun with tourism at the main cliff - every single construction - shop, restaurant, bungalow, exists purely to serve the tourist and so although this is horrible in many ways, it also provides a welcome rest from the north. Nobody, nobody hassles you. Things are a bit more expensive though, but no hassles - none (well, maybe a couple, but I can forget them).
Yesterday we meandered
away from the main cliff, down a little way to a quiet cafe on the beach. We had breakfast and stocked up on bottles of water and headed onwards. It really amazes both of us that not more people walk away from the touristy areas. It really doesnt take a lot, just a hundred metres or so away from the last cafe and you have a much more relaxing experience. Although, we kept going. And going. And going. We ran out of water, my head was starting to explode, we were just discussing how long we'd been out in such stupid heat, and how long it had been since we'd noticed shade, and I was starting to really worry quite a bit about sunstroke, when a mirage popped out in front of us selling water and peanuts. Except it turned out to be real - hurrah!
I'm so glad I bought some suncream though cos my skin is now quite pink even with it. We were out for a good few hours altogether and there really wasnt much respite from the sun. But we met a few friendly fishermen, and paddled in the sea, got blisters from our new flip
flops, and saw many bufalows' heads peeping out from small estuaries.
When we got back to the main cliff, there was a yoga class going on on the beach, just as the sun was setting, boats were sailing along infront of the sun which seemed so huge and red, and there was a lovely air of peace and contentment. Oh I cant tell you how nice it is to be away from the north, where things generally seem so much more angry and aggressive. There's some kind of freedom in the fact that it is so touristy. Western faces are taken as they are - western faces are money machines in every place we've been so far, but in the north it feels like there is a demand for the money we innevitably bring, whereas here, things are more expensive yes, but the general quality feels a bit fairer, the ambience is nicer, and more effort is made in exchange. Oh I dunno, maybe I'm rabbitting, Im just feeling a bit happier!
Also, I had some delicious grilled white snapper the other night - my favourite fish, and I made sure it was a fresh one, that had been on ice - so many restaurants leave their fish out to the flies and bring it out again and again. (bob has a great sunset photo of the fish on his blog).
Now I have to go though and find a fresh fruit juice somewhere and locate another good spot for the sunset. Finally, I feel I can relax!
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Jaye
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So jealous
That's looks so stunning. I can't remember the last time i was on a hot sunny beach, so it's obviously been too long. The pictures are amazing and the sun such an awe-inspiring colour. You sound so much happier. Long may this continue. Jx