Advertisement
Published: February 15th 2007
Edit Blog Post
Lovebirds
Parrots on the entrance to the Taj Mahal We spent all afternoon at the Taj Mahal yesterday. We had debated for many days and finally decided that we would forget the extortionate cost and no doubt increased volume of tourists in favour of Valentines Day - what more romantic day to view the monument to love? I was pretty determined to put all my scepticism aside about the greed of tourist India, about being hassled aplenty, about how it surely cant live up to what everyone makes it out to be. I was absolutely determined to view this place as freshly and as openheartedly as possible. I wanted to feel the emmense love that went into building it - an enormous tomb for the Shah Jahal's wife who died in childbirth with her 14th child.
So we walked in, hassled by guides, a few photographers, but we took our time. we wanted to take in everything, to take our time to get the full experience.
We turned the corner and went through the arch where you get the famous view, and... well, there it was, just as it looks in the pictures. Nothing more and nothing less. Being as neither of us is particularly bothered by 'being there and
doing that' we were actually quite amazed at how lifeless it seemed. There must be more to it - we allowed that possibility - we took our time heading up, through the gardens which are pleasant enough but not stunning, or even very big.
I got a growing feeling of dissapointment - particularly after gazing at it the evening before from a rooftop and feeling some of it's magic. There in the flesh so to speak, in the afternoon sun, it really bewildered me that I was supposed to find anything beautiful or moving in what lay before me. All I saw was a million tourists, all taking their photos, posing in front of it to show people back home, and no sense whatsoever of what it is supposed to be about. Yes it's one hell of a lot of white marble, and it must have taken one hell of an effort to put there, but, well, it's symmetrical - is that beautiful? it gleams a lot, that's quite nice I suppose but for the price we paid, there was nothing to see that i hadnt seen on postcards outside.
No other tourist attraction in the world where I have
paid half of what this cost is it possible to get to see everything in under an hour.
What made me really sad is that although the main building is looked after, the beautiful red buildings by the sides, still important parts of the view, are falling apart. With the amount of money this tourist attraction brings in, it is shocking that very little attempt is made to stop pigeons and wasps nesting and pooing all over. The lovely red stonework is already starting to ruin, and within a hundred years it will be a complete mess.
I was so disappointed with the whole thing, especially when I was pushed downstairs by an enormous Chinese woman who wanted to take a photo exactly where i was standing - I wasnt even in a good spot. All there is inside is a small room with the tombs in to view, but again, there are so many people that not only is it hard to see anything, but it stinks of BO and smelly feet.
We concentrated on taking a few photos, and considered leaving, but the plan had been to stay until the sun had set. I dont know quite why,
but found ourselves still there as planned a little later. And I'm glad we did. The crowds started to dissipate, the sun started to set, and the Taj Mahal started to breathe. It was as if it's breath had been held all day in the shocking sun against the excitement of tourists, and now the sky was turning a night blue, it was able to rest.
Finally we were seeing it - this was why the Taj Mahal was built - it was a final resting place and at night it sleeps, it rests, it is at peace, it's beautiful.
We stayed for ages, staring at the building with sadness and recognising the heartache within it's walls. I finally understood it's beauty and for that I am pleased I was there.
Part of my justification for going though was because while we were deliberating, we were trying to find out what other tourists thought - was it worth it? and I would have been so pleased to have talked to anyone who had the same debates, given that we really wouldnt kick ourselves if it really wasnt worth it, like I said, we're really not 'been there done that'
types. But everyone told us we had to go.
I cant say I regret it, because I finally saw the beauty in it, but there is no way in the world that I would advise someone having the same debate we had to go. No Way. You can see pretty much all the magic from nearby rooftops, and the rest is not worth Rp 750 each, even if you do get a free bottle of water.
So unless you're Indian, and therefore get a good price, or if you really have to take the photo and tell people you've been there, then go, but otherwise give it a wide berth. There are so many more wonderful beautiful sights in India, and besides, staying in Agra is a filthy experience!
Advertisement
Tot: 0.113s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 17; qc: 83; dbt: 0.0827s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Burnham
Gemma Burnham
naa
i think i would rather play with the squirrels then pay RS750!! i have the same issue...is it worth it....but after reading that i might take your advice and find my own indian magic!