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Published: January 11th 2007
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Railay Beach
Stunning Railay Beach At long, long last it was winter vacation time. Our trip to Thailand, was also our Christmas time, plus a chance to see my family, and for Tiem to meet them!
Our flight to Bangkok was via Taiwan, which was fine as it gave me the chance to buy a game for my brilliant (early) Christmas present from Tiem: a PSP. This gave me something to do while Tiem slept during our 7 hour wait in Bangkok's new airport, waiting for an internal flight down to Koh Samui. Landing in Samui is a surreal experience, as the airport is more akin to a theme park service area? From Samui we caught the boat across to Koh Phangan, our home for the next five days. My first impressions of Koh Phangan was that it’s very similar to Koh Chang, similar Thai-island-iconography, and winding, hilly roads. We arrived at our resort in Hat Rin and had an emotional reunion with my family, who I had not seen for a year. For the rest of that first day, we caught up (and got to know) each other, swam in the pool, explored Hat Rin and enjoyed some rather good fresh fish. Hat Rin
is the party central area of the island, it’s where the infamous Full Moon Party takes place each month, based on the quiet side of the beach, we wandered into livelier terrain most evenings.
Day two was Christmas Day. We started the day, as you do, with a dip in the pool, then a rather painful, but rejuvenating Thai massage. I’ve never been pushed and pulled in so many different ways in my life, nor have I ever been trodden on, perhaps the latter is not strictly true? Christmas lunch was taken in an ex-pat run bar, to ensure a decent fill. We all exchanged gifts in quite pleasant and relaxed surroundings, everyone had a decent haul. On Boxing Day, we boxed up our unwanted items and hit the streets to give to the poor and needy. Sh*t, no we didn’t we hired a jeep for the day and cruised around the island, then walked up a dry waterfall. The jeep ride was exhilarating and Tiem and I stood in the open back, as the wind swept through our hair. That evening we treated ourselves to an Indian feast. Indian food is the one food I do miss while
in Korea, so I made up for it in style!
Somehow we ended up exchanging our perfectly nice jeep for a banger, with unwanted extreme reclining seats, the following day. We all piled in and were thrown around like the balls for a cup draw: Portsmouth vs Lincoln (I wish!, we’ve got Man Utd!). The elephant camp was our first stop of the day. I’ve done this twice before, and each time I’ve seriously feared for my life, this time was no different. At one point our elephant let out an almighty roar (do elephants roar???), anyway it was bloody loud and scary. I was ecstatic to be back down on the ground; I’ve now officially retired from elephant riding. In the afternoon, Adam, Tiem and I enjoyed a herbal sauna at one of the Wats (Thai temples). The saunas were sexed, so while Tiem relaxed on her own in the female room, Adam and I sat squashed and sweaty, with a contingent of overweight European gentlemen in ours. Still it was nice all the same. On the next day, our last with my family, me and Tiem left the others to enjoy the tranquility of doing nothingness, and
hired a motorbike for the day. It was blissful, cruising along the coastal road; the views spectacular. We stopped at one beach to relax and snorkel, before continuing along the, now almost unassailable, track. Eventually we reached the NW point of the island where we enjoyed a Jesus like moment, and walked across the sea to the islet of Koh Maa. A sand bar makes this wonderment possible, and we enjoyed some more snorkeling once on Koh Maa. The last evening as a five was enjoyable, and it was sad saying goodbye in the morning. That’s another year until I see my family, unless those now, intrepid adventurers decide to join our flirtation with India? They are always welcome.
The morning my family left, we too left Koh Phangan and flew to Phuket, where we did little more than struggle to find accommodation in the euro heavy favorite haunt; then take the boat to Railay the following morning. The boat trip to Railay was refreshing; breathing in the sea air, and rejoicing the fact the sun was behind clouds most of the way, as we sat on deck with our feet dangling overboard. The Railay leg of our trip
was a risk as we had not found any accommodation. We were praying once the stunning limestone flanked beaches were in sight, that we could wing it and find somewhere on arrival. We got lucky, aided by our check-out time arrival, we got a cheap room in a charismatic resort. Some of the beaches in Railay are breathtaking, however since our visit coincided with the height of peak season they were packed. Still, we imagined them empty, and saw stunning results. In fact the most beautiful beach of the lot, is also the least built up, so come night fall it’s deserted. This is where we spent New Years Eve, alone with only each other for company, and the sound of the ocean and fireworks nearby. Our three days at Railay were spent relaxing on the beach, eating exquisite seafood, and we tried our hand at Kayaking. It was sad to leave, but we were just as excited to get to the jungle.
Getting to Kohsok National Park, one of the oldest rainforests on earth and abundant with wildlife - tigers are still spotted here, involved catching a boat to Ao Nang then bus onwards from there. Our first
Adam on Hat Rin
This beach is full moon party beach (we left before the festivities). night we stayed in an elevated bungalow and enjoyed dining with a troop of monkeys as free entertainment. We signed up for a night safari, something I had done in Borneo which was an unforgettable and rich experience. This time I fear we were conned, as the ‘jungle’ safari was actually conducted within a plantation, somebody’s land, and we saw sweet FA, bar a few interesting insects and a gecko. This experience in the jungle was not as primitive as I had expected, nor as abundant with wildlife, however it proved seductively relaxing and we enjoyed our time there immensely. While on our balcony on the second night, shinning our torches into the foliage with the hope of catching the tiger’s eye, we did see a civet cat which ticked our exotic mammal box and left us contented.
Back to Bangkok then, I’ve been here before I think? Tiem had not though, and the experience of experiencing her first Bangkok experience, made me recall what had made me fall in love with this city some three years ago. This place is brilliant; vibrant, colourful, and exciting. We both agreed that we would like to spend a lot more time
Hat Rin's back streets
The streets of Hat Rin are packed with bars, internet cafes, tattoo parlours, and clothes shops. here. This time we stayed away from Koh San Road in a leafy suburb called Thewet.
This time spent in Thailand has been my most rewarding time in the land of smiles. Thailand is a fantastic country, one of the best, and my company on the trip was simply the best. This is a trip I’ll never forget, and one that’s sending waves of nostalgia over me as I sit in a freezing cold Korean class room, with itchy feet, writing this and counting down the days before we can get on the road once again.
Until then…
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Gray Hartt
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Elephant's trumpet not roar
Hi Kev Great pics and fantastice prose as always. There was an earthquake in Taipan that made internet access impossible. That's why I couldn't check email. Elephant's trumpet - a fitting adjective I reckon! See ya mate, take care. G