Krisimasy

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A number of varying events led me to spend this Christmas in village. Many volunteers seem to avoid holidays in village, probably for good reason sometimes. It's nice to talk to family on the holiday, sometimes spending holidays in a different culture just makes it too hard, it's also nice to be with people of your own culture to celebrate it your own style. I have to admit even I was reluctant about spending Christmas at site, but it slowly grew on me.
Madagascar's high plateau is very Christian, so it was "Christmas in the true sense", that being church, praying and Jesus' birthday. Around the beginning of December, villagers started preparing for Christmas. But, not in the usual commercial sense you might imagine. In fact, it wasn't until I left my village for market post-Christmas that I experienced ANY commercialism. What I mean by preparing is that every night around 6pm various groups would start practicing their "kilalao" for Christmas. Last year I was very confused by this word because it literaly translates "game" or "play". Well, it is that in a sense. Each group learns a set of songs a simple movements to the songs. Sometimes they do little poems in between the songs. This was one of my favorite parts of moving to Tsarazaza last December, listening to the beautiful voices in the waning evening light.
Many people were inviting me to practice with them, but my Malagasy and my learning styles being as they are, I was less than enthusiastic. But finally one afternoon, I was captured. Vony, one of my best friends, was braiding my hair. When we finished, she said, "Come with us to learn songs tonight!" For Vony, it seems I would do just about anything. She is so unassuming, unaccusing, simply kind to me. So I went to mianatra hira with the kids of Tsarazaza, which seems rather appropriate.
The first night, I just sat, read a notebook and learned to sing one song, watching the kids perform their "pagaent" of sorts. The second night, I was hooked in and doing the movements too, singing when I knew words, mouthing when I didn't. At the end of the practice, we would sing the "Veloma" (goodbye) song and Vony would grab my hand in the darkness, walking with me to the road where we parted and said goodnight under the twinkling stars.
By Christmastime I was swirled up in the commotion of getting ready for our kilalao. We went to the church at 8pm, and were the first group to sing. It was such a great feeling being part of a group, part of something else besides my work and my culture. I felt, sort of, like I fit in. I said a short poem in between songs, and with Vony we wished everyone "Merry Christmas" in English. Word spread quickly how "mahay" I was that I could say a 4-line Christmas poem! As soon as we finished our kilalao, we rushed to the Catholic Church to try to sing there, but thought we would have to wait too long. So we watched other kilalaos late into the night. I went to sleep around midnight, but many people didn't go home till 3am Christmas day!
Christmas Day I slept in a little, shared small gifts with my village friends, and ate rice in the evening with a good friend/co-worker. It is the first Christmas I have not opened a single gift--and it wasn't very sad. I missed the tradition, but not really the actual gifts.

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Comments

[Jean Sayer]

Thank you so much for sharing this with us. I had wondered if they celebrated Christmas or ir you and the other PCV's had your own celebration. I enjoyed this very much. Happy New Year! Love, Grandma

[kelly]

christmas
i am glad that you are doing well down on the other side of the world. that's pretty neat that you got to participate in their ceremonies. it is interesting to know exactly how other cultures celebrate things. good luck with that giardia and rice combo. lov ya sis and stay safe. your bro.

[angie7]

I'll be there soon! www.angie7.splinder.com