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Published: December 1st 2018
4
th October 2018
Return to Niagara Falls Continuing our journey through Ontario and New York State. (3 of 3) Leaving behind the wonders of Pennsylvania’s Hawk Mountain, we headed north through new territory for us. It’s a long drive to the northwest, out through rural Pennsylvania, past open-cast mines and farmland in the general direction of Niagara Falls, taking our time to savour the last few days of our North American adventure, 2018, and stopping off wherever and whenever the fancy took us.
Wellsboro, on our route, is often referred to as the gateway to Pennsylvania’s Grand Canyon. A 50 mile long canyon, a few miles out of town, carries the Pine Creek thundering over dramatic waterfalls and deep narrow channels through the Leonard Harrison State Park. A short walk offered us some grand views of the creek and the most magnificent rolling tree-clad hills, before that old monster, drizzle, beat us back to the car and off to our B&B, Bear Midtown at 131, Main Street, close to the centre of town, to dry off. This turned out to be a B&B with real style: king-size bed, a/c, a loaded
Leonard Harrison State Park
Pennsylvania’s Grand Canyonfridge, a glorious en suite with rainfall shower and a restful lounge, all most tastefully furnished.
They’re justifiably proud of their architectural heritage in Wellsboro. Classic architecture is celebrated all along the town’s walking route and the stars and stripes flies on everything that might stand still for more than five minutes: parking meters, gas lamp posts, houses and shops, along the rather classy tree-lined central greensward and through the town parks. Pumpkins, scarecrows and cornstalks heralded Halloween on every porch, neat and trim, all dazzlingly smart and tidy. It would be an understatement to say we loved it there; seemingly passive and safe - if anywhere in the USA can be considered safe these days.
Finally back in New York State, we arrived at Letchworth State Park the following day in perfect autumn weather. Letchworth Park had been on our radar for some time, tempting us with some great walks beside the rushing Genesee River, tumbling over rapids and three major waterfalls on its way to the Atlantic. There’s a nominal charge for vehicles to pass through the park with adequate parking and sixty or more miles of hiking trails at strategic points
Middle Falls
Letchworth State Park all along the fourteen-mile route. The thundering Upper Falls, reached in the blink of an eye from our entrance, set our hearts racing as the torrent thundered and thrashed its way over the edge, framed above by a railway bridge and soaking everyone with spray at the viewpoint below - a magnificent sight. But for me it is the Middle Falls that take the prize for beauty; falls viewed from beyond and below that might rival Yellowstone – and here the falls were blessed with a stunning double rainbow in great clouds of spray. A welcome hike took us to the Lower Falls, the Genesee winding its way between rugged cliffs, some as high as 600 feet – yet another stunning sight to file under, ‘Memories are made of this’.
This is just one of the 180 State Parks in New York State – that’s how big it is!
By early evening we were in Medina NY. Why Medina, you might ask? Well, it just happened to be on a straight line between Wellsboro and Niagara and there were no rooms available in any of the other towns we passed through during the day. Previous experience
suggested we could always find a B&B, a hotel or motel, but that was not to be on this occasion. Eventually we spotted a hotel sign in the centre of town but the entrance door was closed and controlled by a security lock. Enquiries in the attached café led to a phone call and secured the last room in town – a boutique-hotel room in what was once a shirt factory, rather nicely decorated in a masculine sort of way: a top-hat on the shelf and a pipe on a book on the table by the sofa. Breakfast in the café was included whist watching from the window as the local market traders set up their stalls in the rain.
But Medina surprised us, even in the torrential rain. It’s a bustling town that came into its own with the completion of the Erie Canal in1825. The Canal, which connects the Great Lakes with New York and the Atlantic, bends just out of town forming a mooring basin, and subsequent hydroelectric power, pioneered by none other than Nikola Tesla, brought industry and employment. Heinz and Fisher- Price once had factories by the canal along with numerous mills,
their goods taking passage to the west coast markets. At 363 miles long, the building of the Erie Canal was indeed a massive project for its time, particularly when one considers there were no mechanical diggers – just a lot of navvies, horses and carts!
Medina is also famed for its Market Gardens, with apple and pear orchards and vineyards along the canal banks - and neat properties with simple unfenced gardens blossom everywhere in this rather likeable little town.
It was still raining next morning as we headed to Niagara and the American Falls, just an hour away. Ten dollars later the car was parked a short walk from the falls, already heaving with rain-soaked tourists: Chinese, Indian, Japanese, German, French, Italian, locals with kids in pushchairs - and us English of course.
It’s been said that the view of the falls from the American side lacks the magnificence of that from the Canadian side, but surely there is no other water cascade north of the equator to compare with this spectacle - from either side. (Niagara is the second largest waterfall in the world next to Victoria Falls) Perhaps it’s the awesome spectacle
of the roaring Canadian Horseshoe Falls that rings all the bells.
The raging Niagara River disgorges vast quantities of excess water from the world’s largest fresh water reserves: the Great Lakes, Erie, Michigan, Huron and Superior, into the swirling pools below the falls, the Horseshoe Falls alone, shedding 2,271,247 litres per second (give or take a litre or two) over the edge and on its way to the St Lawrence. That’s gob-smackingly awesome!
An amazing12 million tourists come to Niagara Falls each year, many of them chancing a drenching aboard the Maid of the Mist (and other boats similarly named). Way below us from the Observation Tower, we watched as the day’s visitors, all clothed in the requisite red plastic ponchos of the day, smiled through clenched teeth in the cold and wind as great clouds of spray lashed the boats in the swirling river! Once in a lifetime was enough for us, back in 1988 - and we were wet enough already, in the rain and the chill spray. Niagara Falls is at the opposite end of the scale to the Taj Mahal, (there’s nothing serene about Niagara) but, like the Taj, it’s
hard to resist yet another visit, to just stand and stare in awe at the sheer volume of water, the noise, the crowds, the cloud and the spray.
Leaden clouds certainly jaded our views that day - the Horseshoe Falls and the Canadian skyline across the water were almost obliterated from our viewpoint on Goat Island as we followed the snail-like trail of tourists, out and back, with their hoods up, heads down and shoes splashing in the puddles in the constant rain. There’s a nominal toll to cross the bridge back into Canada, where a cordial greeting awaited us from courteous staff at the Canadian border as we headed back towards Toronto for our flight home next day, via Niagara on the Lake.
Eager to avoid the gory glitz of Niagara, Janice had booked a B&B for us in Niagara on the Lake, in wine country, about half an hour from the border. We had stayed in NOTL before; quite where I don’t recall, and we had previously strolled the lively, up-market, touristy, Queen Street shops with our hands stuffed in our pockets and our wallets firmly locked and bolted. It’s not changed,
View of Niagara Falls!
Rather wet might be an understatement but we did wander a little, dodging in and out of a few shops to keep out of the rain before booking into Serendipity, our ‘Five Star’ boutique B&B on St Anne’s Street. Don’t let the rather English street names mislead you; Queen Street is more akin to Carmel, USA.
Our room at Serendipity was on the small side, but immaculately presented and the bathroom across the landing was quite wonderful. Our hosts, Jodi and Bruno invited us to join them for breakfast at nine: a delicious cheese soufflé with a side of sauteed potatoes, sausages and a garnish of blackberries, blueberries, peach and apple, followed by ‘desert’; a circular brownie with lemon cream and chocolate sauce. An hour-or-so later we left our convivial hosts and headed for Niagara once again, to join the crowds at the Canadian Horseshoe Falls. And yes, they are spectacular indeed.
The American Falls were just visible through the rain and spray across the seething river to our left, but before us, the mighty opal Horseshoe Falls thundered and thrashed over the edge, dropping 167ft to the raging pool below, much to the delight of the wide-eyed crowds of
drenched tourists from around the globe - and the soaked passengers on board the Maid of the Mist. An incredible ninety percent of the water from the Niagara River flows over Horseshoe Falls, the remaining ten percent across the border in the USA, over Bridal Veil and the American Falls.
North America is a vast continent and this brief encounter has opened our eyes to yet more of the many wonderful sights and experiences on offer. Sadly, it might be a while before we return, to meet our many friends there, old and new, all of whom we must thank for their kind generosity and companionship.
Thank you all for making memories.
David and Janice
The grey haired nomads
* Remember to scroll down for more pictures and up for the panorama slide show!
A few notes of interest: Gas (petrol) cost $2.93 and Diesel $3.29 for a US Gallon at the time of our visit, (1 Gallon US = 3.8 litres). With the dollar around $1.26 = £1, that’s around half of UK prices.
Your local gas station offers hot coffee
in ten different flavours (Original, French Vanilla, Caramel, Pumpkin spice, Decaf, French roast, Medium roast…), juices and Pepsi ‘to go’ and burgers, wedges and wraps with a dozen different fillings, twenty toppings and ten cheeses to choose from. (Makes yer head ache, don’t it?!)
Sensible highway speed limits of 55mph, though this varies a little from State to State.
Approaching a road junction you’re likely to see road-signs announcing ‘Junction 800ft’. They clearly don’t have yards (or metres) here in the US, but they do still have bushels, quarts and pounds.
Toronto Airport (Canada) is efficient spacious and comfortable, passive ambience, customs unhurried and understandable announcements. Just an hour-and-a-half from Niagara.
Accommodation:
Wellsboro: Bear Midtown at 131, Main Street – B&B - Quite exceptional – close to town and lots of goodies! You’ll not be disappointed.
Medina: Hart House Hotel: Boutique Hotel – breakfast discount in the café. Right in the middle of town. Comfortable, nice décor. Check-in by phone.
Niagara on the Lake: Serendipity B&B, Anne’s Street. Be prepared for a very special experience with your hosts, Jodi and Bruno Caldarelli. Wonderful – absolutely wonderful!
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Keep Smiling
Mike Fossey
Welcome home!
Okay, I know you've been home for ages and that you're missing North America (who wouldn't miss its over-exuberance at this time of year, eh?) - but the UK weather's a bit similar right now. Oh, and I've printed out this latest interesting blog, just in case...!