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Published: November 19th 2018
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At 5.15am the next morning we drag ourselves out of bed. We have slept well, but sleep has been disturbed intermittently by what sounded like rats trying to eat through the wall by our bedhead. Our gypsy sets off at 5.35am and we repeat the rigmarole at the ticket windows. This time the driver does not assist and David does it on his own, with a sharp pair of elbows to help. Into the park and it is very cold. We have our fleece sweaters on but forgot our gloves. It is magical though to be going through the forest as the sun comes up. Suddenly, we see three or four jeeps on an adjoining track. Our guide yells to a ranger he sees, and tells us we have permission to join them – they are on a different route to us. We pull up to see the head of a massive male lion protruding through the grass, about 20 ft away. He is a dominant male, with a black and brown mane, about 10 years old. Suddenly he stands up, and we can appreciate his size. He advances parallel to us and roars. And what a roar! David had never
heard a full blooded roar and Sara has last heard one 50 years ago in Africa. He is now about 12 feet away and it makes your chest vibrate, it is like a deep bark but drawn out. Truly terrifying. He is warning other male lions this is his territory. He advances a couple of paces and stares straight at us. “Too close, don't move” says the guide. Copy that.....
Eventually he moves off, and the gypsies have to move too so the ranger who is studying him can follow him. There's a job! Do they often attack the rangers, we ask. Oh yes is the answer. All the ranger is armed with is a wooden lathi about four feet long with a small axe head near the end for chopping undergrowth when you are following the lion. Hmmm....
We set off and soon after come upon a lioness who is walking parallel to our trail. We drive along tracking her until the ranger following this one chivvies us to drive on. We follows her off into the undergrowth....there are two other females roaring away, but they are deep in the bush and we cannot see them. This
morning's drive is most enjoyable, made not only by the lions but also by our guide Jitendra, who speaks good English and is very knowledgeable.
We’re surprised to see men herding domestic cattle within the park. Jitendra explains that the local tribal people have permission to live in the park. They live in very simple villages with no electricity, but solar panels. He tells us that the lions don’t generally attack a whole herd of cows, but they will pick off one on its own, just as they would with wild animals. Where that happens, the park authorities recompense the farmers.
The afternoon drive, if the morning drive was like watching Everton beat Liverpool 3 0, was a bit like watching a goalless draw with Scunthorpe. Good in bits but not really what you came for. But hey, this is nature, you cannot command the animals to come out to order. Another early night follows, we fail to make it past 8.45pm. Bouncing around in a gypsy for hours on end is surprisingly tiring.
Scroll down for lots more photos
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Keep Smiling
Mike Fossey
Hooray!
Lots of super bird shots. Lions, however, are what you came to see - and see them you did, eventually. I thought they would be easier to spot. They'd better put in an appearance when I get to Gir - perhaps I'll add an extra day as a buffer in case they're shy on my first safari or two!