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St. Stephen's
Budapest, Hungary Buffet breakfast at the hotel, where we meet up with our friends. Our designated mission today is to explore the remaining bus lines, orange and green. It is another really warm day with a forecast high of 28°. We have heard that this is unusually hot and humid for June and the locals are calling what we're experiencing a heat wave.
From the Oktagon we transfer to connect with the Pest green line, which is offered on an electric trolley seating 10. The trolley takes us first past St. Stephen's Basilica, a huge church completed in 1905. The interior is apparently not-to-be-missed, but we will unfortunately miss it. The trolley then circumnavigates the Szabadsag Square to the north, which is framed by beautiful buildings and statuary.
This circuit completed, we jump on the yellow line to connect with the orange line. This one climbs Gellert Hill on the Buda side, which we saw from the boat yesterday. Disembarking near the top, we are rewarded with stunning vistas of the entire city in every direction but west. From here, one can appreciate that Budapest truly is a jewel of a city. To the west, the massive stone walls of the
19th-century Citadel guard the very summit of the hill. This building is currently closed to the public.
There are a number of small shops in this area, and Violet makes some souvenir purchases. I strike out on my own to circle around the Citadel, climbing all the while, to reach the Liberty Monument, erected by the victorious Russians in 1947. A female figure holds a palm leaf representing peace and freedom in her outstretched hand. Weirdly, at the base of the monument is a statue of a naked man strangling a dragon, or something to that effect.
Back at the base of the hill, we take a short transfer to connect with the 2nd green line, this one on the Buda side. Another electric trolley takes us up the other escarpment, Castle Hill. We dismount in front of Matthias Church, a beautiful edifice that looks like a church from a fairy tale, with gleaming gold spires and multi-coloured tiled roofs. Nearby on the edge of the cliff stands the so-called Fishermen's Bastion, considered a "new" structure as it was only built in 1896 for Budapest's millennium celebration. In the centre of the square stands a statue of St.
The Citadel
Budapest, Hungary Stephen mounted on a horse. Live classical music wafts from the park behind. It's a beautiful day and this square is a feast for the eyes.
Behind Matthias Church is the eponymous Castle Palace, at one time the home of Hungarian royalty, now a museum. But we have limited time and an important mission. Castle Hill is honeycombed with caves. Violet wants to see the Hospital in the Rock, a hospital constructed inside a string of these caves. We figure out the street to take and walk down it. It's lined with shops, as Violet is pleased to find some gifts for the grandchildren. The street ends in a wall, but there is an elevator. Presumably we have to take it. We descend to the street on the other side of the wall and find the entrance to the Hospital.
The hospital was created in the early days of WWII to treat wounded soldiers. It experienced its biggest challenge during the siege of Budapest (1944-45), when it experienced terrible shortages of food, water and supplies. After the war, it lay dormant but was revived during the unsuccessful revolution of 1956 against communist rule. In the 1960s, it was
reconstructed as a nuclear bomb shelter. In more recent times, the hospital has been converted into a museum depicting its history visually through exhibits featuring more than 100 wax figures. The museum also covers the history of nuclear warfare with a strong message of peace and reconciliation. An absolutely fascinating place to visit with a sobering message.
We retrace our steps on the various bus lines to return home. Amazingly, on the last connection we end up on the same bus as our friends, who have also been riding the hop-on hop-off buses.
We freshen up at the hotel, then return with our friends to Oktogon for supper. The restaurant choice tonight is Mensa, recommended by the hotel and highly rated in guides. The food is very good, but not exceptional. Still looking for that killer Wiener schnitzel.
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gail macdonald
non-member comment
day 3 of river cruise
hi guys. enjoying yet another blog by david. Budapest looks wonderful - so old and brimming with history. looking forward to instalment 4.