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Has anyone considered travelling through Indonesia?

Indonesia- a real gem in South East Asia that not many travellers ever consider going to.

16 years ago, September 9th 2007 No: 1 Msg: #19151 Delete Edit

pPamela
Pamela Joy Fuge

N Posts: 102

I always feel a little sad when I come across new Asia forums and find out that no one is asking questions about Indonesia.
For me Indonesia is one really special country in Asia and one that is too easily dismissed because of all the travel warnings from the western governments.

Last year I back packed through Indonesia for 5.5 months by myself a lone female without incident. I travelled through Java for 35 days, Sumatra for 3.5 months Aceh for 18 days Kuta Lombok for 5 days, South Sulawesi for 6 days and a few days here and there in Bali.
My photos can be found at www.webshots.com/user/ppamela2006 and I post regularly on Lonely Planet Thorn Tree Indonesia forum.
Last year's trip was my 7th trip to Indonesia since 1997 and I am hoping to head back there for just a month again in Dec this year.
Anyone wanting information re Indonesia is very welcome to email me at
Pamela.

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16 years ago, September 22nd 2007 No: 2 Msg: #19874 Delete Edit

Travelher
Travelher

N Posts: 4

My girlfriend and I are considering a trip to Banda Aceh and Palau Weh in November.
We fly into Singapore on Nov. 10th and after 1-2 days, to KL.
We were going to go to Malaysian Borneo, but saw that Air Asia is starting non-stop service from KL to Banda Aceh in November, so now (given the weather situation in Sabah in November) we are seriously looking at this option.
It's not much time but would like to spend 3-4 days diving on Palau Weh and 3 days in Banda Aceh before having to be in BKK by Nov. 24 to fly home.

I know it's a short time frame, but for Americans, it's actually a very long holiday! Sad, huh?!?

Any help/tips would be appreciated.
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16 years ago, September 23rd 2007 No: 3 Msg: #19883 Delete Edit

pPamela
Pamela Joy Fuge

N Posts: 102

Hi,
How wonderful for you both- GO-you will have a magical time. I was there for about 6 days and at the same time of the year Nov 2006.
Weather was just magic on Weh, only rained for a hr or two on one day.
Yes, I have read about AirAsia going flying from KL to Banda Aceh. Here is the link on Lonely Planet Thorn Tree Forum posted a couple of days ago.
Lonely Planet Thorntree Topic
You will see the post was posted by Aceh_sum
Suggest you get in touch with him. Great guy, I met Mendel in Banda Aceh last year and he took me around Banda on the back of his motor bike.
His email is Just mention Pamela from Australia suggested you contact him about Banda info' and the treks.
Also ask him about what hotels you and your girlfriend can stay at in Banda Aceh seeing I assume you are not married.
He was talking about the idea some of the ex GAM members had of taking travellers into the jungle on treks. If you check out my photos on Banda Aceh the photos of the small lake and snake etc were taken in an area where one of the treks go to.
Apparently the treks are happening now and I would give anything to go on one. Met some of the ex GAM in Ketembe south Aceh in late October and they are great guys and so knowledgable re the jungle.
A future trip for me will be a trek from Ketembe to Tangkahan and then onto Bukit Lawang- all through the jungle and probably will take over a week or so.
Here is a search I just did from Thorn Tree on Banda Aceh for you http://search.lonelyplanet.com/ttsearch.do?Ntt=Banda+Aceh
and Pulau Weh http://search.lonelyplanet.com/ttsearch.do?Ntt=Pulau+Weh
You will be able to read loads of information.
Here is a blog written by a guy I helped with Indonesia information in early December 2006. When I searched my TravelPod news letter I found he had written about his experience on Weh.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/hongkongclauses/sumatra-2006/1168143840/tpod.html
Kevin has some fabulous photos for you to see.
Two dives operations exist on Weh
http://www.lumbalumba.com and
http://www.rubiahdivers.com
Email me direct at if you require more info' or cannot get in touch with Mendel.
Pamela. (passionate lover of Indonesia.)

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16 years ago, September 23rd 2007 No: 4 Msg: #19916 Delete Edit

pPamela
Pamela Joy Fuge

N Posts: 102

Hi,
It seems I cannot put up email addresses here - so to get in touch with Mendel go to his profile in the link above and if you need to get in touch with me look for pPamela on the same forum. I have Mendel's hand phone no. as well.
Pamela. Reply to this

16 years ago, September 24th 2007 No: 5 Msg: #19926 Delete Edit

Jo Trouble
Jo McCarthy

B Posts: 11.5K

Hi,

To contact a blogger directly use the ' Contact (bloggers's name)' icon on the blogger's profile page. To get to a blogger's profile page click on the link which is the blogger's name to the left of the forum post, eg 'pPamela'.

Hope that helps :-) Reply to this

16 years ago, October 15th 2007 No: 6 Msg: #20966 Delete Edit

Travelher
Travelher

N Posts: 4

Hi pPamela,

Thanks so much for the information.
I have been trying to figure out an itinerary given my limited amount of time.
Also, my girlfriend it seems is unlikely to join as her work schedule is interfering, so it will be one more solo female besides yourself to travel here!
I travel to NYC-Singapore on Nov. 10, then a bus to KL and leave the next morning for BA.
I purchased my tix on AirAsia and will fly to Banda Aceh directly from KL on Nov. 11th. I should be on Pulau Weh by that evening, will spend 4 days there, then to Banda Aceh for 2 days before flying to Medan and traveling to Bukit Lawang for 3-4 days.
At the end, I have to work my way back to Medan to spend the night (any suggestions? Rona's?) before flying Medan-KL and KL-BKK the next day.
It's a whole lot of travel, so I'm hoping the ground portion is well worth it! Reply to this

16 years ago, October 15th 2007 No: 7 Msg: #20969 Delete Edit

pPamela
Pamela Joy Fuge

N Posts: 102

Hi Darcy,

Wish I was coming with you. How fantastic that AirAsia flights are up and running from Nov 11th.
I just mentioned about those flights to another traveller who was asking for advice.

Do you realize there are only two times that the fast ferry goes across to Pulau Weh- 9.30 am and 4.00pm and that the airport is a long way at least 30-40 minutes to the centre of the city and then a 15-20 minute becak ride out to the ferry.
If you do get caught and cannot get the ferry go and stay with Uncle and Yulia at Uncle's homestay at this address
Uncle has set up a new homestay in Banda Aceh, located only 100m from his old place. It's a 5 minute becak ride north of the city centre... ask the driver to take you to "Jalan Syiah Kuala, di simpang Lambaro Skep" (Syiah Kuala St, at the Lambaro Skep junction".
When you get to the simpang (junction), you willl see a side road running off Jalan Syiah Kuala. This side road is Uncle's street... his house is the first one on the right... it is new with a blue roof. Just ask the locals for Uncle and they will point you to his house. Rooms at Uncle's are Rp70,000/with fan, Rp100,000/with AC, Rp200,000/large with AC.
(NB: the poster of mine which Derek saw has an incorrect price of Rp60,000 for the fan room... but even at Rp70,000 it is still a very cheap room for Banda Aceh).

The full address is: Uncle's homestay, Jalan Mujahidin No. 2B, Lambaro Skep, Banda Aceh

If you are having trouble finding the place, call Uncle on: 0852 6028 4432 (mobile phone) or 0651-26219 (home phone). Both Uncle & his wife Yulia speak some English, and can offer advice on Banda Aceh & surrounds.

The fast ferries leave Ule Lhee (BAceh) for PWeh at 10am & 4pm daily.
Returns from Weh to BA at 8.30am & 2.30pm daily.
Downstairs class is Rp60,000/one way & upstairs class is Rp75,000/one way. Journey takes 1 hour.
Also there is a once-daily slow ferry (2-3 hours) which costs Rp15,000/one way, but I don't know the schedule for that ferry.

Check out my photos below of Banda Aceh and photos of Uncle and Yulia and their homestay. I just printed off the address and gave it to one of the becak drivers and he took me there.
Was a little difficult to fond but not too bad.

Yes, stay at Rona's, not palatial at all, mattress on the floor but a great way to meet other travellers and get fantastic info' you don't get from the books.
I used Rona's as my base last year and she looked after my big backapck whilst I travelled through Aceh.

A fantastic contact in Banda Aceh is Aceh_sum from Lonely Planet Thorn Tree forum. Do a search on Thorn Tree and find his profile and maybe email him.
If you are not diving on Pulau Weh I would only stay 3 days and spend a day in Banda Aceh. Aceh_sum knows of treks that the ex Gam are doing outside Banda Aceh- yuo could see if you could just go out for a day like I did- see photos.
Not sure how much they charge because it was only an idea when I was up there last November.

Pamela.

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16 years ago, October 15th 2007 No: 8 Msg: #20971 Delete Edit

Travelher
Travelher

N Posts: 4

Hi Pamela,

My flight arrives to Banda Aceh at 12:20pm, so I plan on coming into town, having lunch and making the 4pm ferry.

I will stay at Uncle's when I return, thanks!
I am interested in doing some hikes around the area and also seeing some of the beaches.

I will be staying on Pulau Weh for diving, so will probably want 4 days to take everything in and have some nice down time as well.
I plan to dive with LumbaLumba, so will stay on Gapang.

I've also been doing some searches for 'safe' female treks in Bukit Lawang and see that you suggest Nora's.
I am concerned about doing a trek along especially since there aren't many tourists around these days and want to make sure I have a trusted guide.
If I don't feel safe, I won't go. It's too risky for a young female.

I'll also post this question and concern on the LP forum.

It's wonderful that you've kept such great detailed notes from your previous trips and can now help others.

Thanks so much!
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16 years ago, October 16th 2007 No: 9 Msg: #20976 Delete Edit

pPamela
Pamela Joy Fuge

N Posts: 102

Indonesia is my absolute passion in life and since 1997 I have been 7 times. Actually I do not really takes lots of notes, just remember loads because it is my passion. You know what it is like if yuo love something- then everything comes naturally.
If you do a search on Lonely Planet Thorn Tree for pPamela you will find all my photos. I have photos of trusted and respected guides in Bukit Lawang.
The photos have been up since May 2005 and many female travellers have stayed at Nora's Homestay in the village because it is only these nice guides who are allowed to visit there.
Please stay at Nora's in the village and then ask her about her new place up along the path beside the river. Not sure if it is completed as yet. Nora's Homestay has had so many female visitors and couples over the past 2 yrs that her family have built bathrooms in two of the rooms and have lovely cane double beds. Yuo can check out photos of Nora's too.
Quite a lot of travellers have ventured to Bukit Lawang since I posted my photos in 2005 ( have loads of my time on my 2 day trek for potential travellers to see) and wrote on several forums that it was once again possible to visit and have an enjoyable time.
Pamela. Reply to this

16 years ago, October 16th 2007 No: 10 Msg: #20986 Delete Edit

Travelher
Travelher

N Posts: 4

Thanks, I'll check those out! Reply to this

16 years ago, October 21st 2007 No: 11 Msg: #21241 Delete Edit

pPamela
Pamela Joy Fuge

N Posts: 102

Enjoy your trip and come back and write up a report of your experience or complete one of the blogs- would love to hear how you went.
Pamela. Reply to this

16 years ago, October 23rd 2007 No: 12 Msg: #21363 Delete Edit

Laur4
Laura Fowler

B Posts: 61

hi Pamela, I am flying to Maumere, Flores on 16th November....I am then making me way westwards via Rinca/Komodo, overland Sumbawa, Lombok - possibly Mt Rinjani if the weather is good, otherwise I will head to the Gilly's. Been there before, love the place. Then Bali for a few days, been before will try and see the northern and western side of the island this time. Then I'm not sure....I have to be in KL for the 18th December. I want to see Bukit Lawang and Lake Toba. I will most probably fly from Medan to KL on the 18th December. Any suggestions or recommendations for my trip...I will also be a female travelling alone. I've been in Se Asia for a year now. I don't have a lot of time and wondering weather I should just fly from Denpasar to Medan and miss out Java and the rest of Sumatra....what do you think? Reply to this

16 years ago, October 23rd 2007 No: 13 Msg: #21365 Delete Edit

Laur4
Laura Fowler

B Posts: 61

I forgot to add I may travel a little Eastwards from Flores before going West. Oh and my name is Laura! Reply to this

16 years ago, October 23rd 2007 No: 14 Msg: #21384 Delete Edit

pPamela
Pamela Joy Fuge

N Posts: 102

Hi Laura,
What visa will you be getting when you enter Indonesia-30 day Visa on Arrival?
Are you trying to squeeze in Bukit Lawang and Lake Toba in that 30 day period?
I haven't been to Flores, Komodo or Sumbawa but I know the travelling can be slow if you are not flying and even then the flights can be few and far between.
You may be able to visit Gunung Rinjani because the wet season as such arrives a little later in Lombok.
Personally I think you would be pushing it, but you could fly from Denpasar to Jakarta to Medan.

Make sure you take Malaria tablets with you for travelling in this area- there is a lot of malaria in the eastern islands.

Bukit Lawang Information.
Have a look at this post- there are 20 replies so you will need to scroll down and you will find lots of info' I have written about staying in Medan and getting to Bukit Lawang.
http://forum.indahnesia.com/topic/4960/0/visit_to_bukit_lawang_-_marchapril_2007.php
You could go down one morning, stay at Nora's (best place for a single woman) and maybe the next day do a day trek ( 350,000-400,000) with her brother in law Indra, enjoy the night there and get the bus back on the third day.
For me Bukit Lawang is so much better than Lake Toba which is just a big lake and has a more western feel about it. Bukit Lwang has the orangutans, the river, the jungle and the village where Nora's Homestay is and the people living there are just superb-even the gigilo types-but stay clear of them.
If you meet any of them on the bus going down just tell them you are staying at Nora's. If they try to persuade otherwise-just mention you have been in touch with me and know where to stay.
Everyone knows me there because I have spent 8 weeks there over 2 visits.
Pity you do not have the time to visit Lake Maninjau a much nicer place with a more Indonesian feel.
See my photos from last year at www.webshots.com/user/ppamela2006
and here are photos taken from my Jan/Feb 2005 visit http://travel.webshots.com/album/354912564dvtkJh where I have photos of trusted and reliable guides.
Pamela. Reply to this

16 years ago, October 24th 2007 No: 15 Msg: #21397 Delete Edit

Laur4
Laura Fowler

B Posts: 61

Hi Pamela, thanks for your feedback. I have 35 days in all in Indonesia, I was going to get a 60 day visa.

This is my rough route

14/11/07 - fly into Jakarta
15/11/07 - fly into Denpasar
16/11/07 - fly into Maumere, Flores....possibly fly the day before if I make the flight in time.
17/11/07 - possibly get the boat to Lembata
20/11/07 - boat back to Flores
20 - 27/11/07 - Flores and Rinca/Komodo
28/11/07 - overland Sumbawa
29/11/07 - overland Lombok
30/12/07 - 05/12/07 - Gilly Islands
06/12/07 - Ferry to Padangbai, Bali
07 - 11/12/07 - Bali. Probably will just hang out in Kuta and party.
12/12/07 - Fly to Jakarta, then on to Medan
13/12/07 - Bus to Bukit Lawang
14 - 16/12/07 - Jungle Trek - will do a 2 night one if one is available.
17/11/07 - Bus back to Medan
18/11/07 - Fly to KL

You will have notice I have missed out Rinjani, I will be climbing Volcanoes in Flores and possibly Lembata so figured I would be knackered by then. I have also missed out most of Bali as I travelled around most of the island by jeep about 5 months ago. I know things are slow the further East I get but I think I've given myself enough time to get through Flores, and I know Subawa is only 12 hrs overland where I have allowed for 24. So I think I can get to Bukit Lawang before I fly home...basically I think its going to be the highlight of my trip and seeing the orangutans is something I have wanted to see for years, so it will be awesome to make a dream come true.

I have read a couple of travel blogs who mention meeting a guy called Munti on the bus, he gave them a lift to Bukit Lawang in his a/c, leather, brand new 4x4, they didn't have any problems...and it seemed like a fine way to get to the jungle???Have you had bad experiences with these guys?

Thanks for your input Pamela!

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16 years ago, October 24th 2007 No: 16 Msg: #21400 Delete Edit

pPamela
Pamela Joy Fuge

N Posts: 102

Hi Laura,

Wow, sounds like a great trip. Wish I going back sometime soon, but alas, not till next year maybe May.

Have never heard of this guy Munti and as for giving them a lift, I am surprised they did not have to pay-petrol is very expensive in Indonesia now there are no subsidies.
Once when I got an air con brand new car with driver it cost 300,000 back in Jan 2005- chose to travel that way because I wasn't feeling well and when I went to buy a new phone card for my mobile that morning I met this guy in the shop who was looking for passengers to go to Bukit Lawang.

Sorry what I meant to say in the previous post was 'stay clear of the gigilo types for going on a treks'. By all means hang out with them if yuo wish. No, I haven't really had any really bad experiences with these guys, but know how the female travellers used to post on Lonely Planet Thorn Tree back in 2000-2002 warning women not to go down to Bukit Lawang under any circumstances.
When I visited Bukit Lawang after the Flood for 19 days in Jan/Feb 2005 I was determined to get women travellers solo or in pairs back to BL so I took photos of the trusted and reliable guides whom I met and sussed out through Nora from Nora's Homestay.
By all means do a 2 day trek- it is fun being in the jungle overnight and sleeping under a shelter of only bamboo and plastic-I loved every minute of my trek in Jan 2005. see my photos of how I arranged my sarong so I could have a mandi in private.
Cost these days for a an overnight is about 600,000+ I paid about that when I went because I was by myself and I wanted to show future travellers that Bukit Lawang was still worth visiting even if the flood had washed away the original village.
Make sure you take enough money with you because there are no banks or internet etc. Yuo can take a mobile phone and most times it works very well there.

In Medan stay at Ronna's the new name for the old Spoutnik- not glamourous at all, but a great way to meet other travellers and gather information. see details in the link I provided above.

What a shame you do not have more time so you could head down to Ketembe in south Aceh like I did this time last year on 27th Oct and then travel up through the centre- that was a wonderful experience- such an adventure.

For more BL info' check out this website www.bukitlawangfloodappeal.com/forum/
I have spent a lot of time trying to make this original appeal site now into an information site.

Good luck with your trip- it sounds just so fantastic.
Hoping you will come back here with a report of how it all went.
Regards
Pamela.
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16 years ago, October 24th 2007 No: 17 Msg: #21402 Delete Edit

Laur4
Laura Fowler

B Posts: 61

Hi Pamela

Just read the link you sent me, now I want to go to Tangkahan!! Its strange you know as this place is not in my Lonely Planet Guide? It is the whole of SE Asia though, and not just Indonesia....but the fact its not in the book makes me want to go even more!

So I'm going to change my trip, seeing as I have partied in Kuta just 5 months ago I am going to miss Bali and fly straight to Medan around the 7th Dec, I will then have 10-11 days up in that region to explore. Tangkahan isn't really touristy is it? I have been Elephant Trekking before which was fun but also seemed a bit of a circus at the same time.

With regards to getting to BL from Medan I'm going to print off your picture of that unmarked bus station. Is it far from Ronna's? Just trying to work out what time I should get a bus there, do I get the bus from the same place you would get a local bus to Pinaang Baris bus station?

Sorry to bombard you with more questions! I can't wait to go now! Reply to this

16 years ago, October 24th 2007 No: 18 Msg: #21406 Delete Edit

pPamela
Pamela Joy Fuge

N Posts: 102

Hi Laura,

Wow, you go girl. Tangkahan is an absolute paradise that very few travellers knew about. I found about it from an English woman Angela whom I met in BL in Jan 2005. So last year I was determined to go and stay for a few days, take photographs and write about it so other travelelrs could go and enjoy.
Here are my photos I took http://travel.webshots.com/album/558220008eKUdnh
The best person to see about getting transport down there on the back of a motor bike is Kevin Nora's brother. He knows this guy who lives down the road from them and he is an excellent motor bike rider. Just be aware it is a bumpy ride down, but that really adds to the sense of adventure.
I sat on the back of the motor bike with my hands on my knees the whole time and thoroughly enjoyed it.
The early photos I took when the guy stopped for me to take photos.
Do you know I was going down for a day and then in the afternoon ( after visiting the elephants) realized that was just so ridiculous because I had not even gone across the river, so with Darwin we climbed up the hill so I could get a signal for my mobile phone to let Nora know I would not be needing the driver to pick me up and I would get back myself.
So I stayed for 5 days and one of the guys there Darwis took me back. He too is an excellent motor bike rider and I felt completely safe with him, just like the guy Kevin organised for me.

Stay at Jungle Lodge in Tangkahan- Sylvia ( German woman- absolutely wonderful person) and Alex ( her husband a guide from BL, though his family live near the river further downstream) will be there and Alex's brother Komang is a great guide who can speak English.
I had the 'drop dead gorgeous' Darwin, but his english is very limited, tho' he may be better now, that a few more english speaking people are venturing there.
You need to get a boat across to your accomodation and when you arrive there will be people like Komang or Mega ( he owns a few rooms built on Jane's land at Bamboo River, but best to stay with Sylvia and Alex.
Sylvia will take you river trekking and to her special spots like the hot springs where you can lay full length and just chill out or around the corner to the gorgeous mini waterfall for the best shoulder massage.
And the breakfast table faces onto a scene right out of paradise- honestly you think you have gone to heaven when you sit there eating breakfast.
It is quite primitive in that you will need a good torch because the electricity only comes on at 7pm and goes off again at midnight.
I just love it there-it is like nothing else I have experienced in Indonesia.
Pamela Reply to this

16 years ago, October 24th 2007 No: 19 Msg: #21407 Delete Edit

pPamela
Pamela Joy Fuge

N Posts: 102

Hi Laura,

"With regards to getting to BL from Medan I'm going to print off your picture of that unmarked bus station. Is it far from Ronna's?
Just trying to work out what time I should get a bus there, do I get the bus from the same place you would get a local bus to Pinaang Baris bus station?"

If you stay at Ronna's, please tell her you want to leave by 6.15 am the next morning and she will leave the gate open for you.
Walk out of Ronna's, turn left and walk up to the street that forms a T with Jalan Tengah. This street is Jalan Juanda, cross over and wait for a bus heading to Pinang Baris, think the bus is No. 64- either way it will have a sign hanging from the front window with Pinang Baris written on it. You should be out there in 30 minutes.
If you print off the unmarked bus terminal show it to the driver and he will probably take you onto where it is - about 1/2 km further on than Pinang Baris big terminal.
See if you can get the green bus that usually leaves at 7am- the driver is crazy, but I adore him, doesn't speak English, but is a very funny man. I sat in the front seat with him and laughed the whole way. He does drive fast but knows what he is doing.
Have a piece of paper with Nora's Homestay written on it and show it to him- he will know immediately and drop yuo out the front. Nora's is about 2kms from Bukit Lawang and you can get a becak there. The becak drivers love the western travellers and will always be helpful. I always give them a little tip and they always looked after me. I had my favourites who always looked out for me.
Re the trip you should be at Nora's no later than 10am, maybe earlier.
I got back last year with this driver in 2.5 hrs after leaving Medan- fantastic fast trip.
I needed it because I had just spent a harrowing 2 days in Medan at Elisabeth Hospital after bringing a young dying boy(Anglea's nephew by marriage). in a mercy dash from BL the previous Saturday morning at 6am.
Sadly he died.
Nora's Homestay has the best breakfasts in town, fresh fruits, fresh fruit juices to die for and great food at other times too and that verandah is such a wonderful place to relax and chill out.
If you get a chance ask someone to take you up to Salim's spot near the bus stop in the new housing complex and you can eat a whole barbequed fish one night- fantastic meal- but it may be late. I have eaten up there at midnight with some of my BL friends.
Oh My God Laura I want go back now after writing about all of this.
Feel free to ask me any other questions.
Pamela. Reply to this

16 years ago, October 24th 2007 No: 20 Msg: #21411 Delete Edit

Laur4
Laura Fowler

B Posts: 61

All this information is priceless, you have saved me alot of time! I see you have a language school in West Java, where is it? I am an English teacher, I've been teaching in and around Phuket, Thailand for the past year...well when I wasn't travelling! if I had more time in Indonesia I would pay your school a visit and help out if you needed it. This time round I don't think I will be able to fit it in but maybe next time. Like you I have fell in love with Indonesia, for me its by far the best country in SE Asia.

Early next year I am off to teach in Korea for 6 months to earn some $$$$, then I'm going to see some of China, India and Sri Lanka. I then head to Australia to see what happens...still nice and close to Indonesia so hopefully plenty more opportunities to visit.

I will be posting my blogs on this trip once I get home in December so please look out for them. Buying a new dslr in bangkok on my way so should have some fabulous pictures!!

Thanks for your help

laura

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