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South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco January 3rd 2005

Hotel: Sonesta Posada del Inca Cusco (Cuzco, Peru) $95 We moved over to the Sonesta hotel this morning, it was right off the square, and right across the street from the hotel where I had stayed in 1998. We were upgraded to the suite, which had a great view out over the rooftops and into the Plaza! We had several errands today, laundry and arranging our tours to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley. We visited several of the museums on the Cuzco visitors ticket today. I had missed Qoricancha on my previous trip, what a mistake! It was fabulous inside with the old Inca stone walls. We did a city tour that afternoon, going out to Sacsaywaman (Sexy Woman), Puca Pucara, and other Incan sites.... read more

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco January 2nd 2005

Bus: Puno to Cuzco (http://www.perucuzco.com/imexsotours/transport.htm) Hotel: Libertador Hotel (Cuzco, Peru) $162 We left the hotel at 7 AM for the 6 hr bus ride to Cuzco. The train had been the preferred transportation on this route before the paved road was completed a few years ago. There are several buses that run the route, we took the non-tourist bus that goes straight through without stopping. The VCR broke halfway through Troy. When we arrived in Cuzco, the Sonesta hotel was not available, so we decided to splurge for one night at the Libertador hotel. The location is right across from the Qoricancha, the former Incan temple of the Sun, a few blocks away from the Plaza del Armas. Very nice hotel inside, the beds were very comfortable, and they had the heat cranked up in the ... read more

South America » Peru » Puno January 1st 2005

Hotel: Sonesta Posada del Inca Lake Titicaca (Puno, Peru) $65 Yesterday was pretty much a down day for us; we had been hitting the sights pretty hard for the past week and needed a day to relax. The altitude was a convenient excuse for not getting up to too much! We did go into town for a few hours and wandered around the markets, buying a few blankets and other souvenirs. It was NYE and the locals were selling bags of confetti, charcoal, and other festive items. Most Peruvians celebrate NYE with their families, rather than out in the streets. It was a pretty uneventful NYE, we were still feeling a bit under the weather. There was a good fireworks show out over the lake as the clock struck midnight. We felt much better this morning, ... read more
Taquile island woman & child

South America » Chile December 31st 2004

25.12.04 Die letzten Stunden waren angesagt auf den Osterinseln. Rachel ging kurz ein Bild malen, ich wollte noch das Museum besuchen, welches jedoch geschlossen war. Dann wurde es auch schon Zeit, zum Hotel zurueck zu kehren. Ich kaufte mir noch kurz eine CD mit der einheimischen Musik und rannte fast zurueck ins Hotel. Zum Glueck ist der Flughafen nicht weit entfernt und wir kamen doch noch rechtzeitig an. Zum Abschied erhielten wir vom Hotel eine Muschelkette, ein schoenes Andenken, falls es ueberlebt. Den Flughafen in Santiago kannten wir nun langsam, somit liessen wir uns nicht wieder uebers Ohr hauen :-). 26.12.04 Fact ist, dass ich seit heute alleine reisen werde, die Details muss ich wohl kaum schreiben... Frueh morgens nahm ich den Bus nach Mendoza in Argentinien. Das erste Mal so wirklich alleine unterwegs. Das hat ... read more
Rachel und Stéphane
mal ein anderes Fortbewegungsmittel
ein gediegenes Restaurant

South America » Argentina » Buenos Aires December 30th 2004

What a really great city Buenos Aires is, definitely a contender for a place in the top 10 of the world - out of the cities I've seen anyway. The city itself Firstly, it's absolutely massive - I've heard that the greater BA area has in excess of 14 million "Porteños" (pron. por-tay-nyos) as the inhabitants of BA call themselves. The centre, which most tourists probably only venture out of to visit one of the city's nightclubs, is compact and extremely easy to navigate - the streets (narrow) and boulevards (wide) are arranged in a logical grid system, with each city block having numbers in a set range (i.e. 200-299) the next being 300-399 etc. - this makes navigation very simple indeed as long as you have at least a basic map. It's divided (in a ... read more
Atypical San Telmo
The Casa Rosada
The Eva Peron Speech Balcony

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Arequipa December 30th 2004

Flight: Arequipa to Juliaca, LanPeru 131 (320) Hotel: Sonesta Posada del Inca Lake Titicaca (Puno, Peru) $65 We had all mornining free before our afternoon flight to Puno. We decided to visit the Santa Catalina convent in Arequipa; this was totally closed off to outsiders until the late 1970's! It's a truly magical place, very photogenic with red, white, and blue colored walls, and flowers and citrus trees everywhere. Different parts of the convent are designed to look like regions in Spain. Take lots and lots of film or memory cards with you! Afterwards, we decided to visit the Juanita mummy that was discovered on the top of a nearby mountain a few years ago. She is only on display for parts of the year, and today was the last day that she would be on ... read more

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Colca Canyon December 29th 2004

Bus: Chivay to Arequipa Hotel: Sonesta Posada del Inca Arequipa (Arequipa, Peru) $41 An early rise this morning at 5 am for the 2 hr drive to the Cruz del Condor overlook. The scenery was just incredible that morning, the light was perfect on the villages and terraced slopes that we passed by. Along the way, our guide described many of the local plants the Incas used for food and medicine. Traditionally there were two tribes that lived in the Colca area; in pre-colonial times they used to bind their skulls differently so they could be easily identified. One tribe would bind their skulls into a cone shape, the others would shape theirs with a flat top like Frankenstein. The Spanish put a stop to this, so now the tribes have taken to wearing white or ... read more
Cruz del Condor overlook

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Colca Canyon December 28th 2004

Bus: Arequipa to Chivay Hotel: Pozo del Cielo, Colca Canyon (Chivay, Peru) The Colca Canyon is one of the deepest canyons in the world; over 3000m from the peaks to the valley floor below. Until recently it was thought to be the deepest, but that title now belongs to another nearby canyon. The main town of Chivay was a 5+ hr bus ride from Arequipa over a 14,000 ft pass, only partially paved. We stopped at a store on the edge of Arequipa to buy coca leaves; the locals chew these with lye to help stave off the effects of altitude sickness. We definitely started feeling the effects of altitude here, I ended up with a splitting headache. The coca leaves didn't help at all; in fact I've never tasted anything quite so nasty in my ... read more

South America » Uruguay » West » Colonia del Sacramento December 28th 2004

To ease our return to regular backpacking we decided to stop off in Colonia on our way back to Buenos Aires. We got a late bus from Punta del Este and checked in to a little hotel on the outskirts of Colonia for the night. Exploring Colonia Next day we set off to explore Colonia. It is a really pretty little place with tree-lined cobbled streets and colonial buildings. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1680 but lost to the Spanish a century later. We visited the local tourist information office where we got a walking tour of the town. This started at the local church and led us to a drawbridge entrance through the old wall of the town. Inside, the old town is full of pretty colonial buildings with red tiled roofs. The ... read more
El Faro (The Lighthouse)
View from the lighthouse
Cobbled streets of Colonia

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Arequipa December 27th 2004

Hotel: Sonesta Posada del Inca (Arequipa, Peru) $41 The bus finally arrived into Arequipa around noon. Arequipa is known as the White City due to the use of a local volcanic rock, called sillar, in many of the buildings. It was a gorgeous day when we arrived, but El Misti, the local volcano, lived up to its name. The Sonesta Posada del Inca Hotel occupied a great location right on the Plaza del Armas. We had a room overlooking the plaza, which turned out to be very quiet. The hotel recommended the Tradición Arequipeña restaurant for lunch, about a 10 minute taxi ride away. The restaurant is set among beautiful gardens, but it was deserted when we arrived. It soon started filling up as there was live music set to begin at 2 PM. I was ... read more




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