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Published: August 22nd 2009
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Arrived in Rio last Saturday and headed straight to Ipanema Beach. Glad we went there actually versus Copacabana which is too big and packed, apparently it has the highest density of people than anywhere else in the world (thought I’d get a fact in early). Anyway Ipanema is a perfect place for Brazil beginners - it’s quite a well to do suburb with a very European feel. Everyone speaks English which is useful as we know no Portuguese. We’d heard that it was home to some of the beautiful people of Rio, but this wasn’t really the case (with some notable exceptions) if anything power-walking fifty something’s (often with poodles) seem to be the dominant group.
I’ve been pleased to see that football is as prominent as you would expect in Brazil. A football version of volleyball is played on all the beaches, with a high level of skill on display. I chose to watch rather than participate, clearly not because of my lack of skill but more because of my lack of lycra. You need a pair of Speedos if you want to join in.
We did all the main sights in Rio in one day (Sugar Loaf,
Corcovado etc). I won’t bore you with all the detail but there are some amazing and dramatic views of the city from up high -I’ll load some photos when I’ve finished writing this. What we lacked in Rio was a decent night out. Lapa is the place to go but we lacked the confidence to head down there under our own steam, probably because of all the scaremongering about street crime. We were set to leave Rio on a high by going to the Marcana to see Flamengo play. However we were informed the day before the match that it had been put back by 24 hours (Fergie would never stand for that), meaning we missed the game.
On Thursday we headed to the airport for the 2 hour flight north to Salvador. Things were slightly more rushed than they should have been as the flight had been brought forward by an hour meaning we had half an hour to check in, board etc. I swear they didn’t email me. We were still relaxed until a dreadfully pronounced ‘Matthew Mayoh PLEASE proceed to the gate was immediately. That had the desired effect.
Salvador is an altogether different place
to Rio. It has a very African feel. Not that I’ve been to Africa very often, but it was the centre of the Brazilian slave trade. The city is more run down but does have a nice colonial centre and whilst the people are friendly, you get the feeling that you need to keep your wits about you. We’re staying in the Barra area of the city which is full of life and has a decent swimming beach (nice change as all we’ve seen before are rough surf beaches). I went for a swim yesterday afternoon and ventured quite far out when I was approached by a dreadlocked guy. As he swam closer he smiled and revealed a lot of gum and not many teeth. He offered me his hand to shake whilst we treaded water, which I accepted, at which point he pulled me closer with worrying strength. Then it clicked - his eyes were on my watch - he was trying to rob me in the sea! I wriggled my hand out of his grasp and made for the beach at a rapid speed. The sea robber shouted some abuse as I swam of like I’d seen a
shark.
So a week in and it’s been good - we still haven’t had a big night out, which we will have to rectify as parties are what Brazil is supposed to be all about. Actually we did try to go to a club a couple of nights ago. The Caipirinhas were going down well at the hostel so we tagged on to some Americans who were going to a Brazilian funk night. After trekking all the way across town I was refused entry - for wearing shorts, by a female bouncer who was wearing shorts! I tried to talk my way in but she was having none of it, she didn’t speak a word of English. My parting shots were telling her to lead by example and practice what she preached in the future, even if she did understand it was water off a ducks back.
Tonight we leave Salvador (on a night bus) for Lencois (six hours inland) for a few days trekking. Will send another update soon.
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Paul Thomas
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v. jealous!
Looks fantastic. Better photos than drunken ones of Ash in various S. American hosteleries! Hope you both enjoyed Engalnd's victory in the Ashes. See ya soon in Sydney, Tommo.