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South America
December 3rd 2005
Published: December 3rd 2005
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No Kangaroos in Austria?No Kangaroos in Austria?No Kangaroos in Austria?

These Austrians don´t want to be mistaken for Australians ...especially in Uraguay!
Hey, across the border and we´re in Argentina...country number 11 (I think), just under 30,000 kms on the bike, (24,000 since LA), day 157!...bed No. 100 and something. meal No. 800 and something...might be building up to tell you about a strange waking moment this morning...
We got into Foz do Iguacu at last..great bit of road and cool conditions for the last 200kms...I was pushing a bit but also aware that the tyres are getting pretty smooth!...and trés excited, a big moment...the Falls themselves and the end of Brasil...such a huge country, so diverse, so friendly, so many rich experiences, so many wonderful people..really the end of a chapter unlike any of the other countries we have been thru.....and always I´ve got this feeling of similarities between Brasil and Oz..the laid-back lifestyle, friendliness, hard work ethic, innovative design, the art and music and literature, our national colours are the same even..and a love of cold beer, beautiful women, handsome guys (?)...fast cars, bikes, travel, beach lifestyle..I could easily spend more time here, especially knowing some locals..otherwise language is still the bummer!!
As usual, (and I dont know why I keep naively expecting different!!) the "town" of Foz do Iguacu turns
No Kangaroos in Austria?No Kangaroos in Austria?No Kangaroos in Austria?

These Austrians don´t want to be mistaken for Australians ...especially in Uraguay!
out to be a sprawling city with hills and twists and turns in the road that the map just doesn´t even attempt to represent!....at a set of lights I ask courier guy where the Foztur place is...he says follow me and takes us over and around, up and down, across and thru´..but gets us there...Ha, easy!...could´ve found it..no sweat..yeah, sure!
Go thru´several options with the very helpful, and not unattractive, english speaking, (almost), tourismo chica...opt out of the squillion dollar a night mega palace hotel at the Foz themselves...head for the youth hostel halfway to the Foz..and its fantastic!...swimming pool, ber, restaurant..internet even...
Head straight out to the Foz, park (at great, rip-off, expense!!...and get the bus out...
Then its the walk down along the track beside the river with the falls just across the way...its like a huge step in the terrain, jagged edged, curves and inlets, this faultline jaggers its way across the river´s path and over several kms 270 or so separate falls pour out their wet woes 80 metres to the river....Mist swirling, water roaring..you get the picture?...in the water below, rubber duckies and power boats try and terrify the passengers with feats of daring..how close
Misty-eyed at FozMisty-eyed at FozMisty-eyed at Foz

Out on the walkway below the falls..
to the edge can you go?
The air is thick with butterflies, millions of them.......actually the air is soo thick with mist from the falls that most of the butterflies are having trouble getting off the deck...most are walking around on the ground, frantically flapping a few feet to get out of my way...And big mobs of black birds swooping and swirling around in the mist...its so thick they must have trouble staying aloft, and then they´ll dart straight thru´the waterfall...in some pretty heavy places too!!...a few seconds later, out they pop again..must have their nests right in behind the water...
So, this is it...pretty spectacular but you know, another set of waterfalls...omg am I getting so blasèd out by all the splendours...?
Anyway, we walk along, out on the viewing decks, getting soaked in spray, not disimilar to the canoe trip up to Angel Falls...a few sultry touristas around but not crowded house at all....a few more choice viewing spots, a few more choice souvenir shops..and of course the cute-but-don´t-push-your-luck coaties.(?)..little rat-like, racoon sort of animals...long striped tails, pretty cool, but lots of signs and warnings about not touching, feeding or trying to stick one in your bag......so we
Grant at the BorderGrant at the BorderGrant at the Border

About to cross the bridge from Brasil to Argentina
have a really shit burger and get the bus back....
Back at the carpark we find 2 KTMs with Austrian plates next to us so leave a note...later they come to stay at the same place so we shared a few beers and talked with them...a most unlikely looking pair of bankers!!
So, this morning, in that halfway place before fully waking, I had a terrible flash on not wanting to get up!..as if this was becoming a chore...the getting up, getting all the gear on, loading up the bike, another day in the saddle, another hotel at night, more achy, breaky back, the stress, the pain...crikey, has this turned into another form of work!!...had to slap myself severely and just put it down to missing home and all of you.....

so then it was off and across another border....not far at all, out of the brasil side with no probs..across the bridge over the Iguacu river...the bridge is your actual border, so on the Brasil side the edge walls are painted vertical green and gold, then halfway it changes to horizontal blue/white/blue.....cute....
Passport into Argentina is on the move...don´t even need to get off the bike...just hand the passport thru´the window and bango..but then the bike customs people!!..altho´they were cool, and we were relaxed, and so on...they just couldn´t believe we only have registration papers..in fact, "paper" singular!...they insist we must have title documents..oh no, here we go again...explain this is all we have and its been sufficient for the last 10 countries!!....Note to self; next time..(?) make an "official" title document, tart it up with gold braid and whatever impresses your average customs person..would have saved us lots of time at most frontiers!!...Anyway, we´re in and about to have a look at this side of the falls...I´m feeling much more positive!!.....and I´m really hungry...about nearly 2pm and nothing much all day...looking forward muchly to the famous Argy big meat thing..yum!
I believe Grant has just uploaded his monthly load...
homepage.mac.com/gforbes3
El Ted is still working off in Hawaii (yeah, sure!) so I´m not sure what his website is doing, but always worth checking out...
Sandy is in Buenos Aires and she´ll let you know if she wants you to see her blog!..so there!
Chau...todos es buenos...god, thats always such a load off my mind...sorry you have to wear it all but its a real therapy for me...and with some luck and good management I might have a lap top by Xmas...then I can write a bit more lucidly...yeah, right!!

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