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South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco October 24th 2020

Sunday 18 October 219 days since Covid arrived in Cusco The rains have finally arrived! I woke up to a rainy morning in Urubamba, the kind of rainy morning that makes me hum the lyrics “I’m only happy when it rains” by Garbage. Being born in Seattle is not the only thing that makes me love rain, the hills around Cusco which have either been either yellow with dry grass, or black with wildfires, will soon be green again. It was a light, steady rain that hopefully will soak the hills without causing any mudslides. The heaviest rains in the Cusco region are in January and February, when torrential buckets of rain slash through hillsides, washing away towns and hiking trails. Last January 23rd, there was a landslide on the Inca Trail, which killed three porters ... read more
Maya
Ankle biter
New park entrance regulations: hand washing

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco October 17th 2020

Sunday, 11 October, 2020 212 days since Covid arrived in Cusco Today something finally happened for tourism in Peru: a Japanese tourist who waited for seven months in Aguas Calientes got to visit Machu Picchu, which is still closed. Conociendo Perú reported on Facebook that the Peruvian government had relented to pleas to let Jesse Katayama visit Machu Picchu. He was accompanied by two photographers, but otherwise had the place to himself. As you can imagine, this made quite a few of my friends here very jealous. Some of my expat friends moved to Cusco on purpose, well before the pandemic, and intended to live here. Several of them are just stuck here and most of those who are stuck haven’t been to Machu Picchu. My former housemate, and current nextdoor neighbor Kerry, intended to leave ... read more
My favorite Machu Picchu shot
Photography by Amanda
I voted!

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco October 10th 2020

Sunday, 4 October, 2020 205 days since Covid arrived in Cusco 30 weeks and I’m still in lockdown with an 8pm curfew? This isn’t like Europe, which is facing new lockdowns with their recent flood of new cases. Peru never lifted all of our lockdowns and curfews, even though in July the “quarantine” ended and for a couple weeks the curfew was 11pm. Here in Cusco, our cases of Covid exploded at the beginning of July and by the end of August we had about a thousand new cases per day and about a death per hour. This was a huge shock for everybody, including myself, because throughout April, May and June we had only a handful of cases total. Most days the hospitals didn’t record any new cases and we didn’t have a single death ... read more
Pachecutec in smoke
Strong winds fan the fire
Flames from town

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco October 3rd 2020

Sunday, 27 September, 2020 198 days since Covid officially arrived in Cusco People in Cusco are so done with lockdown. Despite it officially being illegal to leave your home on Sundays, except for emergencies, there were a lot of people in the streets today. I stayed home, but out my window watched people strolling down the sidewalks and sitting in the park in the sun. It was definitely fewer people than a normal day, and there were no vendors in the streets, but it didn’t look at all like the past six months of Sundays. I didn’t see any cops drive by until almost 3pm and by then the streets were empty again. We have been in lockdown for so long that people have just had it. In March and April, the cops would roll through ... read more
We take care of our Pachamama
Traces of colonialism
Harvest moon

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco September 26th 2020

Sunday, 20 September, 2020 191 days since the first Covid-19 case was officially diagnosed in Cusco In some parts of Peru, this is the last day of full day Sunday curfew. In Cusco, the current outbreak is so bad that none of the restrictions will be lifted here. We still have an 8pm curfew and are not allowed to leave the house on Sunday, except for emergencies. Our numbers for new Covid cases have plateaued and even started to go down a bit, but I’m still staying home as much as possible. This weekend would have been the Canoe Island French Camp board retreat, which we are now doing by zoom. I stepped down from the board when I moved to Cusco, but asked to remain on a couple committees so that I can stay involved ... read more
Some smaller parks are open
No drones
Clear cutting at the Temple of the Moon

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco September 19th 2020

Sunday, 13 Sept, 2020 I’ve been hearing a lot from my friends and family about the wildfires in Washington, Oregon and California. The red skies, even at 9am, the ash covering their cars parked outside and the choking smoke all make the west coast sound apocalyptic. I sympathize with their predicament and unfortunately I can also empathize a bit too well. The smoke in Cusco isn’t as thick as in Seattle or San Francisco, but it’s also tragic: the url=https://larepublica.pe/sociedad/2020/09/12/machu-picchu-reportan-incendio-forestal-de-gran-magnitud-en-santuario-historico-cusco-mdga/Machu Picchu National Sanctuary is burning. The fire started on Friday, near the train tracks. Though the fires on the west coast of the US were almost all started by the same url=https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2020-09-09/lightning-california-fire-season-pacific-stormdry ligh... read more
Chicha Morada ingredients
Purple kernels
Purple on the outside

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco September 12th 2020

Sunday, 6 September, 2020 177 days since Covid arrived in Cusco If a pregnancy is 40 weeks, Peru is more than halfway through carrying our Covid baby. People have a lot of unique ways of tracking time. I’m sure very few here in Cusco are counting the days and the weeks like I am. Maybe they’re counting the months. Maybe they’re counting how many family birthdays they can’t have parties for. Maybe it’s how many times they have to go to the bank and ask for an extension to their credit. Or how many job applications they fill out. Or how many times they have to ask their landlord to give them more time to pay rent. We are now at the end of what would normally be the high tourist season. People should have been ... read more
Outdoor markets
Api and ice cream
Api, api!

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco September 5th 2020

Sunday, 30 August, 2020 170 days since Covid arrived in Cusco It’s also been 170 days since the library in Cusco closed. I never took the time to go before, although I walked by it every day on my way to work. I always thought I’d have time “later.” I suspect that people all around the world now have time to do the things that they put off before, but now can’t do them because of the pandemic. It’s a Catch -22. When the pandemic is over, the places we wanted to visit will open up again but we will all be back at work and too busy. Still, the library on Calle Ruinas in Cusco is high on my list of places to visit as soon as it opens again. In the meantime, I do ... read more
New Market Recommendations
Nabo con Sangrecita
What does cooked blood look like?

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco August 30th 2020

Sunday, 23 August, 2020 163 days since Covid first arrived in Cusco It’s hard for me to believe that we’ve been in some form of quarantine/lockdown for that long. At this point, it’s also hard to believe that life will ever be normal again. Everything is so different now. My day to day life has so completely changed that I feel like I’m living in a totally different country than I was five months ago. One of the reasons I moved to Cusco is that I wanted to see more of the area. The pandemic has ruined that plan. Now, the only times I can leave the city are with the Covid Relief Project. Yesterday was our 6th trip to a village to take food and school supplies, and it was beautiful. The drive to and ... read more
WASH YOUR HANDS
Aprendo en Casa
Environmental Progress

South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco August 23rd 2020

Sunday, 16 August, 2020 Five months ago, on March 16th, Peru entered a serious lockdown quarantine. Since then, a lot has changed in the world and in Peru. Hospitals in Peru have more ICU beds than in March, they have more respirators than in March and they have better personal protective equipment for their employees than in March. Five months ago, trucks full of military, armed to the teeth, patrolled the streets. They picked people up for not having a believable story about going to either buy food or go to the pharmacy. Hundreds of people were arrested every night in Peru for breaking curfew - which was 6pm for the first couple months. One of my housemates was ordered to go home when she legitimately left the house to buy food. Another was threatened with ... read more
Flamingo
White Tufted Grebe
Andean Duck




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