Puno and the floating islands

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After Cuzco, we made our way more or less directly to Puno, a town on the edge of Lake Titicaca. This is the highest lake in the world, and it quite beautiful. It also has floating islands, which are one of Peru's top tourist draws. Long ago, some of the native people living on islands and the mainland got tired of being bossed around by some of the others, so they built thick boats and platforms out of reeds, and floated off into the lake! They are still there today, hunting and fishing in the reeds, and maintaing their islands, which have several houses apiece, and other structures such as lookout towers. The former president of Peru (the Japanese one, who is in jail now) gave them free solar panels, so they also have electricity. Although some have tvs, they live pretty traditionally. We were told that we are lucky to see this generation of islanders, as the younger ones all want to leave and go to school in the cities.

Each island is actually made of many small contributions; each family must boat to an area of reeds, and cut a section for themselves of 10 - 15 square-meters. It is the roots of the reeds that are important, as this is the floatable bit. They are about one meter thick and, even when totally submerged, will pop back to the surface after a few seconds. A stake is driven into each section, and the sections tied tightly together with rope. The whole area of reed-roots is then covered by about one meter of dried reeds that have to be replenished every so often. To make sure the island doesn't float away, it is anchored to a tall tree that has been sunken into the lake bed. (Since they don't have trees on the island, this lumber must be acquired by trading goods on the mainland). If one family isn't pulling their weight, or if they are causing fights among their neighbours, they can be banished by the president. This means their tiny portion of reed-island is cut free, leaving them to float unhappily away.

We got a ride in a canoe made of reeds. The President of the island we were on told us that the canoe is mostly filled with coke bottles, so it is not as traditional as it looks. Perhaps it needs less maintenance this way.

Next stop: Bolivia!

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Photos

Boat ride
Laura and Lorenz, both cringing for some reason.

Reed houses
The islands surface is soft but firm, and floats a foot or so above the water. However, some of the sides are not so solid, and is it possible for a foot to go through.