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Published: November 2nd 2009
November 1-3, 2009 - Puno & Lake Titicaca, Peru
After a decent night´s sleep, we are all thrown into Taxi Chollos (small three wheeled, peddle powered taxis) which take us to the port of Puno where we will board a boat to take us out on to this massive lake and head for Taquile Island, about three hours away.
The scenery is amazing here so there are plenty of photos to see (when I get a chance to upload them) and being on a boat is far better and much more relaxing than our previous days on buses travelling over bumpy roads.
At 3,900 metres above sea level, Lake Titicaca is the world´s largest navigable lake and over the many centuries since it was formed, has changed from a saltwater lake, to a fresh water one thanks to the 8 creeks and rivers that feed it which themselves exist due to melting snow in the Andes. The one tributary that leads out of Lake Titicaca saw all of the saltwater deposited in Bolivia - which shares the lake with Peru.
We arrive at lunch time and have a fantastic two meal course of soup and and omelette
which is capped off by the sensational setting - on one of the many terraces under a "marquee" overlooking Lake Titicaca.
Afterwards, we explore the town and take on another hour long trail that will take us to the other side of the island where our boat has moved to and then takes us to our next destination, a peninsula closer to Puno and where we will have our second family home stay.
With Kath back at the hotel due to the effects of altitude sickness, the 8 of us are split between three familes who seem to be a lot more outgoing than the last family we stayed with.
After dropping our bags off at our homes, we return to the beach (which is littered with goat and donkey poo) for a game of volleyball against the locals. One game turns into many with the final few matches being played in the golden glow of the sunset over the lake - I never thought I would have done this on my trip!
After a delicious meal of two tradtional courses, we are taken to one of the other home stay homes for a fiesta. And
though the music was limited - a guitar and a bass drum - we all had an absolute ball and let me tell you, I cut up that dirt patch like nobody else and had an absoulte ball!
They showed us their traditional dances, that included me lying on the ground in my poncho and beanie, pretending to be a condor before carryying one of the girls on my back. Not sure what that was all about. Anyway, wanting to return the favour, we wanted to show them a dance that we all knew and it was the bold Chris that showed them a dance that they loved and were doing the next morning - The Hokey Pokey.
Yes, the dance done at kindergarten where you put your right foot in and out and shake it all about, etc. Watching the locals, and we tourists, all adorning the traditional clothing doing the Hokey Pokey was hilarious and ensured that we all were tired and would sleep well (mostly anyways...).
The next day we bid farewell to our host families and are all given flowers as a thank you, leaving the dock on our way to the reed
islands of the Uros, one of the teenagers from one of the families does one last dance of the Hokey Pokey for us...
The Reed Islands
On our way back to Puno, we stop at a small group of man made islands made entirely from the reeds that grow in the shallow waters of Lake Titicaca.
Only about 2-3 metres deep, the crystal clear water allowed us to see the grassy lake bed that is used to anchor the "floating" reed islands. Four large blocks of earth are dug up and the grassy island is secured using several ropes and multiple sticks/poles reinforcing the ties between the blocks and the islands. It´s more interesting than I´m making it sound I´m sure....
It was a bit weird walking on a cushioned ground that, so we were told, that if the island´s base material was at an advanced stafe of decomposing and you stood in the one place too long, you may fall through! The small islands are home to about 5 families that live in very close proximity to one another and all houses are also made of the reeds - special cuddle nights must require the inhabitants to pick up their homes and move to a quieter part of the island (not that it´s very big) or, use of the reed boats for a cruise on the calm waters of the lake.
Not that our cruise was romantic (perhaps for some it was?¿) but the nine of us carefully got onto the narrow boat, ensuring that we were balanced so we wouldn´t end up in the quite cold water beneath us. A residant of the island, I forget his name so let´s call him "Pablo", proceeded to guide the small reed vessal around the waters near the island.
Some way out, Pablo asked if we would like a turn at guiding the boat. Now, these boats are about ten metres long and to propel and steer the boat, you have to use a long bit of timber (funnily enough, blue gum!) musch like the gondaliers in Venice. Mike, Richard and I went OK, it did take some getting used to and my short arms could only manage small, awkward pushes unlike the smooth motions of Pablo.
It was, however, Stephen that had the boat in stiches sending us in a circular motion which at one point, looked to send us into the vast blue mass towards Boliva. Luckily, Pablo managed to guide us back to another island, the inhabitants of which, didn´t appear all that pleased that we "gate crashed" onto their island!
Our regular boat made it´s way to the second island which we boarded for the remainder of the trip to Puno where we would collect the rest of our luggage and make our way to Cusco, the original city of the Incas, by bus that would take seven hours or so.
Dreading another bus ride, what with my need for sufficient leg room, I was delighted (so too the others) to find that we were to be seated in 1st Class on the lower level of the bus with nice large leather seats and only 2 other people in the cabin with us - if only all our travels on bus here were as nice!
Arriving in Cusco in the late afternoon / early evening, we do a little walking tour of the immediate area surrounding the main plaza following check-in. Much like the other places we´ve been, the main plaza has several large and important religious buildings surrounding it with the Spanish influence on the architecture here blended with the fading remnants of the Incan structures that were once here.
Along the way, we hear and then see another street parade, this time with local school kids seperated into their class groups (as indicated by the signs held at the front of each group) wearing varying costumes and with a car or cart mounted with speakers following spurting out music, the youngin´s were all dancing and performing to celebrate the school´s anniversary - as we later found out.
Moving on and strolling through the narrow and hilly streets, my dealings with the feared travel tummy were still not over and once we entered the local market where the meat stalls´odour was quite strong and I had to stand outside so not to anger the stomach gods which would then curse me to mess myself there and then which would not have been in anyone´s best interest.
Another quite night for me with the rest of the troupe heading to a charity restaurant which povides aide for children in Peru - apparently, dressing up with supplied costume items is mandatory and all that went had a great time. As much as I´m sure I would have enjoyed it, I didn´t want to risk not having a stable stomach for my 4 day hike that is the Inca Trail....
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Robin
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Hi from Auntie Robin
Hi Marty 4th November today, I have been checking in to see how you're travelling. Hope by now you are not experiencing as much altitude sickness, sounds awful. Can't wait to see some photos too. Laughed at the thought of those nice folks now doing the hokey pokey, and you having a stack on the sand dune. Everyone okay here, Den returned to work this week, still not real strong (or much heavier) but he says he is managing okay. Stay safe and well. Love Auntie Robin