From shantytown to the resort


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South America » Peru » Ica » Ica
August 13th 2008
Published: August 17th 2008
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I've again fallen behind in my blogging. And I may not come through on my promise for pics just yet. Seems like no matter how much time I think I have, I have half that. On Wed we checked out of the hotel in the morning and took off for the Pueblo Jovenes, or slums. The area is a picturesque camera shot from the paved park in Lima, but actually consists of dirt roads, +/- running water and electricity. We started at the office of one of the local NGOs and learned about their efforts at improving the quality of life in the pueblos jovenes. Within the last 20yrs they have brought paved roads, running water, and electricity to many of the nearby pueblos, but many still exist without any of those services. Even with running water and electricity, it's not exactly convenient. It' built into the steep hill that overlooks the city of Lima and has very little in the way of stairs (stairs were actually one of the projects from one of the NGOs, and thanks to them there are a couple of main staircases). Otherwise you're walkng in packed dirt (which must be liquid mud with a nice rainstorm) and constantly watching out for doggie mines. I have never seen so many dogs in one place. All dirty, mangy, and many with injuries (missing an eye, bum leg, lots of hanging nipples). As we were hiking through the shantytown, I was just grateful I couldn't smell anything as we passed piles of burning (and non-burning) trash (stupid cold is still holding on). Lucky for me, my colleagues let me know when I should hold my nose. Despite the extreme poverty, it was one of the few places that we weren´t assaulted with little puppy dog faces begging for money (and it´s not just the kids -- even the men are using the hanging lip!) People were just going about their daily lives (doing what up there I´m not exactly sure).

We loaded back onto the bus and took off for Ica -- the city of the earthquake. Many might not know (I had no idea until I got here) that Peru experienced a devastating 7.9 earthquake last August 15, centered just off the coast near Ica. It killed around 700 people, and 200 of those were in a church in Pisco when it collapsed during mass. Our visit to Ica was 2-fold: to see the hospital there and in Pisco, and to see the damage and rebuilding (or complete lack thereof, as it were). We stopped at an awesome little restaurant on the way and had traditional Peruvian dishes. My favorite so far is the tacu tacu which is a bean, rice, something else mixture that is sauteed. VERY tasty! Although I haven´t had cuy yet so maybe I´ll find a new favorite (cuy is a Peruvian staple -- guinea pig). A little preview of what lies ahead in my travels -- I will be trying it, and I will take pictures (wait til you see it!).

By the time we arrived in Ica it was already 4:30 so our planned activities were over for the day (finally a little freedom!). The place we stayed at was a resort (literally) and was pretty incredible! No 5-star hotel, but had lots of fun activities. Unfortunately it was late when we got there so we had to pick 1 activity to do before it got dark. Normally we would have had another afternoon and evening there, but we had to come back early to Lima on Thurs afternoon. Because of the anniversary of the earthquake on Aug 15, there was a big strike planned, and we would be right in the middle of it. The strike is to protest the complete lack of support from the government in rebuilding the area. Apparently all of the funds are tied up in paperwork (and maybe someone´s pocket, who knows). And you thought FEMA was bad for Katrina... The entire area really does look like the earthquake happened last week, with only slightly less rubble. We would have been stuck right in the middle of the strike if we stayed. And we had to leave fairly early because being on the road during that is dangerous (they throw rocks and stuff at vehicles on the road. Very dangerous). In any event, it was a nice night at the resort. It was a tough choice for me between dune buggy (made slightly less fun by not being able to drive, but only ride), sand boarding (just like it sounds -- snowboarding down a GIANT sand dune), and a cocktail class being put on by the resort where you learn how to make the famous pisco sour and a few others...and of course drink them. 😊 It was close, but guess which one won out. And if anyone wants a pisco sour, you´re welcome to my house to try it (you need Pisco to make it...)

After enjoying a cocktail class with a few of the girls, I went into the city of Ica with Roxanna (our local Peruvian who works at the Navy base and has been essential for our trip). We were on a mission to buy a birthday cake for one of the midshipmen (turning 21!) We found a decent bakery which made us a very nice chocolate cake with a simple fudge topping. While there, we couldn´t help but notice the big pink frilly cake. So we got that too, along with a nice princess cake topper. Of course that was the one we presented. 😊 It was pretty funny! During out short excursion to Ica, I realized what a crappy little city it is (unless it gets better in other places...) Not very nice to visit. The outskirts aren´t bad though!

Back at the resort, we enjoyed some large bottles of wine that we brought (WAY better than the crappy wine they were selling!) and had a pretty decent dinner. A round of compleaños for Nanda (our birthday middie), some cake, and off to the lounge for karaoke. Unfortunately it didn´t start for another hour or so. My cold and sleep deprivation made for a bad combination with all that wine. While sitting by the fire in the lounge waiting for karaoke and enjoying some beverages, I was literally nodding off in my chair. I decided not to be a hero, and retired early to my room, regretfully since I was really looking forward to some Peruvian karaoke. The worst part was that I woke up 2 hours later and had a horrible night´s sleep after that (I had not yet discovered the miracle of affrin -- that came the next day). Stupid cold is really hanging on. Dang thing won´t die. I have a feeling I´ll be bringing it home...

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17th August 2008

cold
That cold sounds meaner than the average rhinovirus. Please don't bring it home. Take care of yourself Nikki. We and the Navy need you. Love, Dad
17th August 2008

guinea pig??????
please tell my my eyes are tired and I read that wrong. YOU ARE NOT ACTUALLY GOING TO TRY GUINEA PIG. stay safe.
18th August 2008

hey stay safe.I am really enjoying your blog.I had to catch up with my reading as I needed Meem to show me how to open them. Love You.Uncle Tom

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