Cusco's not for sissys


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South America » Peru » Cusco
March 2nd 2012
Published: June 16th 2017
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Geo: -13.52, -71.99

It's street after street of indigenous women sitting on sidewalks with a bag or two of fruits or herbs--some on display--some tucked under their wide skirts. They sit there rain or shine, sometimes so wrapped in plastic sheets all you see is their hat brims.

They live in surrounding pueblos and don't leave for home until after 5 at night, so every afternoon when the rains come they're the most pitiful sight.

It's streets so steep and narrow cars aren't allowed, surrounded by walls 500 years old and made of stones carved to fit so exactly they don't need mortar --they're so commonplace here as to be their normal.

The whole area--from Machu Pichu to Cusco--is like being in a living museum.

It's eye jolting traditional clothing set against tall grey stone walls. And it's wonderful food.

We planned on four days to get over the altitude sickness and I'm afraid it's going to take all of that. Every morning I'm so sick--didn't even get out of bed yesterday until noon, but today I was up and out of the hotel before 8. Then by 10 I'm practically throwing up in the street I'm so nauseated.

When we're climbing these
Ladies selling vegetables from their gardensLadies selling vegetables from their gardensLadies selling vegetables from their gardens

The ladies live in surrounding pueblos and come to the city to sell their vegetables. Guess this one didn't like me much...
steep hills, every three steps I've got my head between my knees trying not to upchuck. I had no idea it would affect me like this. Bob, who can sleep through anything, can't hardly sleep at all here. It just affects everyone differently.

But each afternoon I'm feeling more like myself and we head out to roam the city.

The city thrives on tourism and it's all based on the amazing Inca culture. Before 1916 when Hyram Bingham "rediscovered" Machu Pichu, Cusco was just a sleepy colonial city.

Now it's the most visited in the world.

This is the jumping off point to some of the most astounding stuff ever. And boy does it attract hustlers. It's like running a gauntlet to walk down some of these streets, you're so swamped by sellers of everything.

We love looking through the artwork of these art students here though, and actually bought some from a lady who approached us today. But of course as soon as you do, your surrounded by eager artists with their work handy--would you like to see my paintings Mrs? Looking is free they chant.

Then there's the Inca king you can pose with and the ladies in bright native clothing
Ladies line the streets with their waresLadies line the streets with their waresLadies line the streets with their wares

You see the word "cuy" on that sign. That's guinea pig. Guide books make a big deal out of the fact that they're eaten here, but they're very expensive and people we've talked to say they don't taste like much. So we haven't tried them.
walking llamas with ear tassels--all for your photography pleasure.



Additional photos below
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Indigenous girl in native costumeIndigenous girl in native costume
Indigenous girl in native costume

This girl was so adorable. But can you imagine making a living this way??
12 sided stone12 sided stone
12 sided stone

An Inca technical wonder all fitted without mortar.


3rd March 2012

Do you ever get adjusted to the altitude? How high are you?
4th March 2012

Yes, that's the question, isn't it. It's supposed to take abt 3-4 days and I'm on day 5 and still crappy, so I guess some people just don't. And we're damn high. That's how. Yesterday we did a city tour that took us to 12,500 feet and I was
just incapacitated. I spent the day on the bus, but when we got back to the hotel I took two oxygen treatments and slept a lot better last night.
4th March 2012

What a wonderful vacation you both are having. You are missing our snow & thunder! Glad you are having such a good time.Love your mail and pic's they are great. Stay well and safe!Love you
4th March 2012

It's good to hear from you. I've been following the girls on FB, but don't hear much about you there anymore. We're enjoying everything but the altitude sickness, but tomorrow we go down 1,000 feet to Machu Pichu, so it should be better.
6th March 2012

You should feel really awesome when you get back to sea level! I get so sick when I go up to granite peak, it is like you described. I just want to die every few feet. I won't go up that high any more, not without a lot of time to acclimate
to the altitude.
6th March 2012

You know they say it's genetic--I thought of you when I read that. Sorry...we'll just blame it on grandma Slater.I felt so awesome at 8,000 feet today (climbing Machu Pichu)! It's like I'm a new person. Even 5 days at 11,400 didn't acclimat
e me--In fact I was getting worse every day. I'm really hoping when we go there after the Sacred Valley that I'll be okay because it will have been more like 2 weeks.

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