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I am surprised to find myself enjoying Cusco. It's touristy, sure, but unlike a lot of European cities, it maintains its traditional atmosphere because the locals still participate daily in cultural activities. They shop at the markets, enjoy street entertainment, and outnumber tourists 20 to 1, even around places of interest.
The taxis at the airport wanted $10, which is absurd for Peru, so I decided to walk to the city. There was a grass berm along the highway but after walking a couple of miles in the scorching sun, took a taxi to the city center. It's supposed to be only about 4 soles ($1.50) from the airport, so at least I avoided a scam. I booked ahead because of the festival and decided to stay in the San Pedro area, at Hostel Incama. It was away from the tourist hordes and had friendly people, comfortable beds, single rooms for under US $20, but it was very loud, with loud and slippery floors and construction and angry dogs outside. For dinner I checked out the market, which is only a block away, and found an array of stands in the lower corner that serve all sorts of typical foods.
I had a bit bowl of soup and some fried fish for only 3 soles (just over 1 USD); I recommend eating there often, as anything near the main plazas is incredibly expensive. For a fancier meal at an ok price, try Victor Victoria, about 2 blocks off Plaza de Armas (just off Calle Tigre). After the Salcantay trek, I ate there with some friends... they have very good food, and we were brave enough to share some cuy (Guinea pig) which wasn´t anything impressive, as is the case with most "delicacies."
As I'm not really interested much in the churches and plazas and other touristy places in Cusco, the reason I rushed here from Lima is for the Inti Raymi o Fiesta del Sol or the Festival of the Sun. I highly recommend coming if planning a trip for this time of year; it's just after the winter solstice, on June 24. Activities go on all week, but it culminates with a performance in Plaza de Armas, and then a whole pageant on a hilltop, all of which is magnificent. I asked around, and locals said it starts "mas o menos" 9 AM, which was a pretty rough
estimate. After waiting for two hours in the sun (and beginning to think that the name is just paying homage to the audience who must stand in the hot morning sun for hours), the drummers and pipers entered, then the dancers, followed by hundreds of other Incas, including the king and queen. The whole scene was fabulous, and even a bit moving.
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Liam
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Once I had the opportunity to go to that festival and I really liked the celebration of part of the agency that supported us.