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Published: September 30th 2007
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07/07/07
After getting used to our half-built accommodation, we were awoken early to a lovely breakfast, consisting of banana pancakes and fresh exotic fruit, a pleasant surprise. After, we waited in the exotic courtyard garden ready for our SAS bus to transfer us to the start of the historic Inca Trail. We all tried to get in the right frame of mind ready for the next challenging 4 day hike, a 28 mile trek. At this point, we heard that the rest of the group members were either marathon runners or experienced hikers - oh dear. We got our passports stamped at the entry point of the Inca trail, and got our visa checked! Then we crossed the hanging bridge of Cusichaca and started the trail, with great views of the Urubamba river and mountains beyond. Lots of llamas, donkeys and horses on the trail too, accompanied by the locals carrying out traditional farming methods.
The first day is described as the easiest day of the trail, so we set off early with our hiking sticks and snacks full of enthusiasm for our 8 hour trek. However the first day was not as easy as we had hoped, with
two uphill climbs in sweltering sunshine, which were a little tiring! The scenery was fantastic, with many Inca ruins along the way, including a quaint castle in the distance. The vegetation was very tropical, with some unusual flowers. When we finally stopped for lunch, we were amazed to find that our porters had set up a tent as an eating area, fresh towels and food of an excellent quality in vast supply. This was a welcome surprise, and the extra energy spurred us on for our long afternoon hike ahead.
During the day we saw the ruins at Llactapata, such incredible architecture and very mystical surroundings. We also stopped at a small rustic style hamlet Wayllabamba, which had small houses with straw rooftops, and a small pig, which fell asleep whilst being stroked! The little shop was quite amusing, offering shoe repair services and even accepted Visa! After an 8 hour day we arrived at our campsite at The Forks, which had great views of Mt Veronica in the background. Then we received some good news 'happy hour', which consisted of hot chocolate and popcorn, followed by a two course dinner, with a delicious soup as a starter, avocado
and cheese. Feeling tired, everyone in the group went to bed early! Camping life....
08/07/07
A 5.30am wake-up call, with herbal tea, a bowl of hot water for washing, followed by pancakes for breakfast. Lots of energy required today as the hardest day, lots of uphill walking, a little nervous but determined to succeed! The first part of the day, involved a long trek up a steep continuous uphill incline, through temperate forest following the river. We happened to be stuck behind some horses and donkeys being taken in the same direction. A couple of people in another group had decided to turn back, as the incline became a bit too much for them. Then up the dreaded Dead Women's Pass to the highest point of the trek at 4198m. We watched numerous porters pass us on the steep terrain, often wearing damaged sandals or barefooted struggle upwards at enormous speed, carrying huge loads. One porter even carrying a full-sized cooker on his back, this spurred us on, as we watched their amazing achievements in awe.
Nick and I suddenly seemed to gain some additional energy, and started to overtake some of the other members of the
Urubamba River
Beautiful views! group, as we made our way up Dead Women's Pass. Perhaps it was the stunning views that awaited us in anticipation! We could see the silhouette of the dead women. The entire group managed to complete Dead Women's Pass within 3 hours, instead of the estimated 4 hours, a great achievement! The views of the surrounding mountains from the top were magnificent with dotted clouds, well worth the effort. We met a couple of women heading back in the opposite direction along the trail, as they felt they could not make it up Dead Women's Pass, renowned for its trekking difficulty. This was shortly followed by a very steep descent down towards the Pacasmayo river valley, on the way we spotted a Hummingbird sucking nectar from one of the exotic plants. It is worth taking your time on this stretch, to enjoy the views, examine the unusual vegetation, & occasionally look back to ensure you are not missing out on any views!
We had another delicious lunch at Pacaymayo, more soup, tortillas and sweet potato. In the afternoon, we enjoyed views of Runkuracay Stone just past two alpine lakes. After more uphill and downhill walking through cloud forest, and
across bridges to Sayacmarka. This is an Inca site where sacrifices of llamas and alpacas took place at the alter. We also saw the Sungate, store and watchtower. We did not stay too long here as the mist came down and rain fell, so we wore our ponchos and continued along the slippery steps to our campsite.
At 5pm happy hour, time for more hot chocolate and popcorn! Relieved as the hardest day, a mere 10 hours had been accomplished - must be getting fit! Our porters already at the site, with the tents set up, applauded us on our arrival. We promptly applauded them for all their hard efforts! Another high quality meal, followed by hot South American style punch, to warm us up, the coldest night yet! Some rain and thunder overnight & quite foggy. Shivering as we fell asleep, wrapped up in many layers!
09/07/07
Awoke to fantastic views of snow-capped Cordillera Vilcabamba. Today our last pass, 6am wake-up call, a little later than normal! Delicious omelette for breakfast, lots of beautiful glaciers visible from the campsite, amazing awe-inspiring views. A lot of downhill, crossed a tributary of the Rio Aobauba. Then through the
Inca causeway, through cloud forest and an Inca tunnel to reach the last pass, a slightly easier day, a 5 hour trek in total. We arrived at the Phuyupatamarka ruins, consisting of ceremonial baths with water running through them. Many, many steps….more downhill than uphill. We got a glimpse of Machu Picchu flag on top of the mountain in the distance - our target goal! Lots of Hummingbirds, orchids, ferns and temperate vegetation visible along the way. As we reached the top of one of the mountains, we had to leave a stone each & make a wish, a tradition apparently!
We saw a beautiful waterfall set against misty mountains, as we headed downwards towards the ruins. Later we arrived at Winay Wayna at 11.30am, where we had a quick tour of the ruins here, and spectacular ancient terracing. Misty mountains and lush waterfalls surrounded the site. Almost like a preview of tomorrow's expectations! We were then rewarded by lunch, unfortunately the shower towels had all been hired, so our group remained unclean for a third day! In the afternoon, it began to rain a little, so we decided to rest in our tents and make the most of
the fantastic views around us steeped in history. The views from our tent were magnificent...a tent with a view.
Happy hour at 6pm, then pizza & beer for dinner! After dinner we had a presentation for our porters, for the 7 of us taking part in the trek, we had approximately 16 porters in total! These guys are heroes, so they were tipped generously for all their hard work. Without our porters, the trek would have been arduous and difficult, a big thank you for their amazing abilities and kindness. That evening we learnt the Machu Picchu had just been awarded one of the New Seven Wonders of the World titles. Such a privilege to be part of the celebrations, and to be actually taking part in the Inca trail, during this historic victory! Apparently celebrations already taking place in Cusco…
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