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Published: November 26th 2007
El Misti
Arequipa is right over the top of this volcano. We have travelled right around it.Day 1 - Colca Canyon Tour
Thursday 15th Nov Like every tour in Peru, there is always an early start, this one wasn't too bad though, pick up was at 8.30am. We were picked up in a nice little Merc Sprinter, better than we had anticipated and there was already a few others onboard. Abel seemed very nice and his english was good so all in all a good start. Our first stop was to a small shop in Arequipa to buy some coca leaves and candies to help with the altitude. We really weren't looking forward to chewing on some leaves with some sort of volcanic rock! Secondly, he advised us to purchase some fruits to give as gifts to the local children who would be posing for tourist photos, so we bought a couple of oranges, I'm sure they would be happy with a couple of oranges than a couple of packs of oreo cookies!
As we continued our journey through the pampas and up through the mountains, our guide siad he would instruct us as to when to start chewing on the coca leaves, and unfortunately the time had come. The isntructions were as
Vicunas
These animals are dotted about all over the reserve as you drive to Chivay. follows;
Step 1: Take 10-13 leaves and place them on top of one another then place the bit of volcanic ash/chalk in the centre
Step 2: Fold the leaves over the chalk as if you were wrapping a parcel (not a very nice one)
Step 3: Put it in your mouth and chew for 30 minutes!
It was revolting!! We started to chew on the leaves and they started to break up. You were not meant to swallow any of the leaves but I really don't know how you can avoid that. Our guide had informed us that our lips and tongue would start to numb and oh my, it did just that! The chalk is used to take away some of the acidity of the leaves, I can't imagine what it would be like if we did use it. Your meant to chew the leaves for 30 minutes, however, I lasteed 15 minutes and Ross only a bit more. We couldn't wait to chuck it out the window. I think that we were the only 2 on the bus that actually used the leaves, everyone else was smart enough just to suck on the candies, we soon
Coca Tea!
To help with the altitude. Doesn't taste great but is better than chewing the leaves! followed.
After a couple of hours, we reached the National Reserve de Aguada Blanca where we saw lots of different groups of vicunas (small llamas) roaming the pampa. We were able to stop and take lots of photos. These animals are protected by the government and if a car happens to knock them down then the driver must pay $500 fine. The surrounding countryside is breathtaking and herds of alpacas roam freely across the land looking for ichu grass to munch.
A few hours pass and we reach the Patapama, regions highest pass at 4,800m above sea level. This area is marked by a landscape of stone piled towers which represent offerings to the sky gods. It is only recommended to spend 5 minutes here as breathless and dizziness is quite severe. We definitely felt it.
The road soon descends into the Colca Canyon and Chivay. Chivay is situated 163km north of Arequipa and the base for all trips into the Colca Canyon. We checked in to the Inkari Eco Lodge, our bed for the night. After some lunch of alpaca, the only choice on the menu, we were off to the hot springs. These waters are
Mary and her little Llama!
This little girl was always hugging and kissing this little Llama. Very cute! warmed by the surrounding volcanoes and the water is on average 85 degrees celcius.
The whole hot springs idea on the itinerary sounds fantastic but in reality it is just an overcrowded hot bath, one that could be found in any Scottish town. We had the choice to visit the outside or inside pools and due to the wind chill, we opted for the latter. We thought that this was a good move until only after 15 minutes in the hot water, Lynsey became overheated and was close to fainting. We took an early exit or Lynsey was going down, Ross to the rescue!!!
After the hot springs it was time to chill out and rest back at the hotel before our night of folk dancing and more peruvian dishes.
We sat down for dinner and it was either plain alpaca or alpaca with sauce! During dinner we were entertained by a local band with a PA System that could easily be used at Murrayfield. There was no talking during their set! After dinner we treated to some traditional local dances. The costumes were bright and were very detailed. We had been warned by our guide that
Inkari Eco Lodge
Our bed for the night. Looked down onto Chivay. we may do some dancing later if we wanted. Now, you know how much Ross likes dancing! Following the third dance, it became apparent that the male and female dancers were inviting members of the audience to take part. Ross tried to remain cool, calm and collected whilst he was almost under the dinner table. All of a sudden, he felt a tap on his shoulder and before he could fake injury, he was on the dance floor grooving to a Peruvian beat! Before long, he was on his back and being straddled by a young peruvian girl. This was part of the ´Last Love Dance´ and the girl was supposedly trying to revive him by wafting her skirt over his head. This didn't work, so she stood up and began to whip him instead. He was soon revived and he was able to dance some more. Ross was the star of the group, Dance X auditions next year!!
Day 2 - Colca Canyon Tour
Friday 16th Nov So it was it up early for our journey to the Cruz del Condor to see the birds in flight. We were greeted in the breakfast room by 3
The 'professional' local dancers
They performed three local dances each in different costumes. They were very impressive! smelly, greasy Germans who had slept on the couches in the lodge. The word smelly is being generous. We were then informed by our guide that they were joining our tour. The freedom we had on our bus was gone and unfortunately one of them was stuck next to Ross. He couldnt have been more unhappy with that.
We were five minutes into our journey when we stopped at a town to witness some local children dancing in the main square along with a market for us to buy bits and bobs such as hats and gloves, the usual. It was very early, 6am, and we couldnt help feel that the poor children had been dragged out of their beds for our benefit. At this stop there were local women with hand reared birds of prey. They were offering tourists the opportunity to hold them. Naturally we accepted.
We then continued along the long boulder ridden road. It was another hour before we reached our destination. It was already busy but we were given roughly 2 hours to take our positions and wait for the Condors to take flight.
It was a while before the first one
appeared and although it was a fair distance away, it looked majestic. We changed positions and our luck was in. A number of birds appeared right in front of us which were duly photographed. The birds made no noise as they floated past, just cruising on the mountain thermals.
After that it was back along the wonderful road to Chivay where a rather poor buffet was waiting. Worst meal of the trip which happened to cost the most, doh!! It was then over the great mountain pass of nearly 5,000 metres where we stopped for photos and then back to Arequipa. It was a relief to be off the bus and have the freedom of Arequipa to explore again.
The next day we were off to find a Scottish/Irish/English/any pub who would show the mighty Scots verus Italy. We searched high and low and came across an Irish pub with a good old Scotsman standing in the middle of the of the pub with his Scottish strip on, together with his pals. We thought this was a good sign and walked in. Turned out he was from Dunfermline. Scary how small the world is!! The place was jumping
with the five of us until the final whistle.
Now we are off to Cusco on the night bus to prepare for the 4 day Inca Trail. Hope we survive!
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Vic
non-member comment
Oh my.....
Yes Oh my..... that has to be the funniest thing I've seen in a long time. If Ross being straddled is'nt enough, the thought of him having to get up and dance well I just want to give him a massive round of applause. I'm so proud I would of been off like a shot x So funny....