Blogs from Ancash, Peru, South America - page 4


Atsikeliu 5.30, pasitikrinu kuprines ar viską pasiėmiau, papusryčiauju ir laukiu kol atvažiuos autobusiukas manes paimti. Netrukus su langais papypsina atvažiaves mikriukas, tad išbėgu į lauką. Pasirodo šis ne pas mane. Didžiąją kuprinę pasidedu į saugojimo kambariuką ir netrukus sulaukiu savojo autobusiuko. Kompanija idomi, 6 izraeliečiai, 2 britai, australas ir mergina iš naujosios zelandijos. Iš ryto visi nelabai kalbūs, gal tik išskyrus izrealiečius. Važiuojam apie valandą iki kito miestelio. Čia kas nori gali papusryčiaut kavinėj ar nusipirkti užkandžių parduotuvėj. Čia praleidžiam dar valandą ir važiuojam iki kaimelio iš kurio pradedam savo žygį. Čia mūsų jau laukia 4 asilai ant kurių sukraunami visi daigtai... palapinės, miegmaišiai, maistas. Čia nacionalinis parkas, tad prie įėjimo dar tenka papildomai susimokėti. Netrukus įlendam ... read more

South America » Peru » Ancash » Huaraz May 4th 2013

Kaip ir planavom, atsikeliam 3.30, susirinkam daigtus pasigavę gatvėj taksi važiuojam į oro uostą. Atvažiuojam kaip tik laiku, labai ilgai laukti nereikia. Palydžiu Maysa iki skrydžio vartų ir atsisveikinęs važiuoju iki autobusų terminalo. Kažkaip liūdna pasidaro likus vienam, vistik mėnesį laiko kartu praleidom. Autobusų stotį randu reikiamą autobusą į Huaraz miestą. Išvykimo tenka palaukti porą valandų, o po to 8 valandų kelionė. Peru pakrantė gan nuobodi, daug smėlio, tiesiog dykuma, bet kai tik pasukam link kalnų, vaizdas greit keičiasi. Atsirandau kur kas daugiau žalumos, o netrukus tolumoje pradeda šmėžuoti baltos kalnų viršūnės. Sakoma, kad aplink Huaraz esantys kalnai patys gražiausi visoje Peru, ir vieni gražiausių visoj pietų amerikoj. Ir tai tiesa, kalnų viršūnės aštrios ir bene tobulos formos. Atvažiaves į miestą greit susira... read more

South America » Peru » Ancash » Huaraz April 3rd 2013

Into the mountains As we get set to leave Hauraz and the Cordillera Blanca, let me tell you about a place which is once again full of contradictions, and once again completely different from the other places we have been so far. The toughest part about Huaraz for both of us has been theses contradictions. To arrive in such a beautiful place only to be sick from the extreme altitude. To venture out into the streets only to be attacked by diesel fumes which made us both sick. To hike in some of the most beautiful places on earth, but deal with poorly run, companies to get you there. These are the things that make travel so difficult, yet so rewarding at the same time. One unexpected point about the city of Huaraz (most people's stopping ... read more
Our first hike
At the lake
The faces of the Cordillera Blanca

South America » Peru » Ancash » Huaraz » Huascaran National Park November 5th 2012

Leaving the coast behind we travelled from sea level to 3600 meters up in a matter of hours. Another drive on windy roads high into the mountains, after being back at 0 meters for a few days altitude kicked in again quickly. After the beauty and warm weather of the beachside it was a slight shock to arrive into Huaraz, it’s a loud, dirty looking town - seems like every other road has been dug up, including the one with our accommodation – it’s cold, rainy and dark mid-afternoon. But my reason for visiting wasn’t so much the town but the surrounding national parks. High up in the Andes Huaraz is dominated by the highest tropical mountain range in the world, The Cordillera Blanca, and Peru’s highest peak, Huascaran. After a night in the hotel it ... read more
National Park
Lake 68
Lake 68

South America » Peru » Ancash » Huaraz October 2nd 2012

You know what makes me happy?... 10hours busrides dont. Thats what it took me to Huaraz from Trujillo and another 1,5h to Caraz, where I stayed for two nights... Luckily, Johannes, whom I have met in Trujillo was by coincidence on the same bus... and by destiny: on the seat right next to me :) So we kept each other company before I fell asleep anyway :P I can sleep EVERYWHERE. Even on those uncomfortable, freezing cold and sometimes leaking nightbuses, this one wasnt that bad though :) Luckily. Caraz is such a lovely little town, there are no supermarkets, nor shopping ceters, but you will find everything you need on the market that stretches over 3 blocks. Especially when waking up at 5am -like us- the market already offers breakfasts, fruits, coffee, sandwiches. Perfect. The ... read more
Laguna de Paron
View while walking down

South America » Peru » Ancash » Cordillera Blanca August 9th 2012

There are enough lagoons, glaciers, peaks and valleys to keep us in the Cordillera Blanca for far, far longer than we have. Choosing which trails to walk is not an easy task, but choose we must. Hot off the Santa Cruz trek, we first opt for a day walk to Laguna 69, a glacial lake located at the foot of Pisco, one of the Cordillera's most climbed mountains and part of the same larger massif we circled in the Santa Cruz trek. Much of the trail is in the shadow of Huascarán, and despite being a relatively easy six-hour-or-so walk, the trip to the lagoon is one of the most gorgeous day-walks we've undertaken so far on the trip. It's sublime: frozen waterfalls, soaring mountains, water so painfully blue it wouldn't look out of place in ... read more
Beautiful Quilcayhuanca valley
Day one, walking up the Quilcayhuanca valley
Quebrada Quilcayhuanca

South America » Peru » Ancash » Cordillera Blanca August 8th 2012

Some weeks ago, we found ourselves at the 5,897 metre summit of Cotopaxi after a gruelling seven-hour climb over snow and nice. Back at the base camp, exhausted, we agreed that we probably wouldn't be repeating the experience.... Well... The Cordillera Blanca is stuffed full of peaks over 5,500 metres - while many are highly technical climbs requiring ice-climbing experience, a generous handful of others are relatively straightforward ascents. Walking among the soaring peaks of the Cordillera on the Santa Cruz trek, I'd pretty much made up my mind that I wanted to get to the top of at least one of them. Alex, the memories of Cotopaxi still vivid, didn't share my enthusiasm - but was only too happy to stay in Huaraz and enjoy its excellent selection of cafés and restaurants! Fortunately I found ... read more
Quebrada Llanca, on the approach to the base camp
Glaciated Llanca valley
Having a rest on the steep climb to base camp

South America » Peru » Ancash » Cordillera Blanca August 8th 2012

Much as the ancient archaeological wonders of Peru's northern coast - as well as its delicious cuisine - have captivated us, it's time to move on. Firstly, the coast is getting a tad depressing: mile after mile on the Panamericana rubbish-tip...I mean highway...from which there is little of natural beauty to see other than as many miles of rather featureless coastline devoid of colour or vegetation. The weather doesn't help either - it's the middle of winter on Peru's coast, and it's day after day after day of extremely low, dirty-white cloud which the sun can only very occasionally pierce. Secondly, and far more importantly, a little further south is one of the places we have come to Peru for in the first place: the mighty Cordillera Blanca. Part of South America's Andean spine, the Cordillera ... read more
Approaching the Cordillera via the amazing Cañón del Pato
Approaching the Cordillera via the amazing Cañón del Pato
Approaching the Cordillera via the amazing Cañón del Pato

South America » Peru » Ancash » Cordillera Blanca July 26th 2012

“No, I need to take the ice axe, what if we come across a Yeti!?” says James to Marco (our trusty Peruvian guide) after Marco has indicated that he doesn’t need the ice axe for the 5 minute walk around the back of the glacier to install our ice climbing top rope. Marco shrugs and starts walking, probably thinking to himself that this is another strange gringo with strange habits…James bounds after him like an excited kid – or rather like a rock climber who is ecstatic about fulfilling his dream of climbing an ice wall, and in the flipping Andes! James wants it noted that glaciers are classic yeti habitat and didn’t want to be unarmed on his first trip onto a glacier. And so, there we were, back up at 4500m , deep within ... read more
J on the steeper section
Us and our guide Marco
Laguna and Glacier

South America » Peru » Ancash » Cordillera Blanca July 22nd 2012

I was going to name this post ‘The day I had to dig deep and put my big girl panties on!’, but James didn’t think that was suitable for a post that also includes him! We did the popular Laguna 69 hike on the 4th day in Haurez, which meant that we were both pretty much acclimatized (or so we thought), and were ready for some leg stretching. It is hard to say or write Laguna 69 without inserting a winking emoticon but apparently the 69 had nothing to do with what you think – but more of a lets-just-give-it-a-number and we’ll name it later, kind of situation. We had an early pick up from our hostel and together with a bus full of other travelers, made the 3 hour trip up to the national park. ... read more
Team green and khaki
Mountain Stream
First Laguna

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