Blogs from Chachapoyas, Amazonas, Peru, South America - page 3

Chachapoyas is a little known name outside of Peru, and yet its place in the countries´ history is undeniably pivotal. We are now in the North of Peru, and the Chachapoyas culture thrived here in this fertile region - despite the modest elevation of 2300m, the forested hills are fed by the presence of cloud milked of moisture by the cooling of the ascending air stream from the Pacific some 200k´s away. In a process of brutal Darwinian selection, the million strong tribal population of aggressive discords earned their reputation for being tough enemies. The mighty Incas from the South felt expansive, and desired both the sacred coca growing regions of the Chachapoyas, and probably preferred to subdue a tough neighbour, rather than leave their expanding flank exposed. Suspending their internal issues to unite against the ... read more

After Vilcabamba we wanted to head to Chachapoyas in Peru, because we´d heard that the surrounding area had some impressively jungly ruins to explore. The main border crossing is notoriously grim and dangerous, associated with much hassling and theivary and the like. Because of this, because it´s the fastest way to get to Chacha, and because I am difficult, we decided to go to this really remote border town and do the crossing there. The other, smaller crossings have only been open a few years because aparently there has been a long running border dispute between Ecuador and Peru, including a minor war about 10 years ago, and they only very recently signed a peace treaty. There´s the sort of information I probably should have been aware of before coming here, wars and stuff. Never mind. ... read more

He is sitting on two big boulders along a soggy dirt road waiting for his bus to pass. He is roughly an hour from Chachapoyas, the nearest town, on a dead end road in the Andes and it is sprinkling. There is a makeshift café next to him under a blue tarp serving various grilled meats, potatoes and coffee. The hood of an old blue clunker of a car is acting as a table. It is getting chilly and dark and he still has two hours until he is supposed to catch his bus. The reason for this situation is that he went on a tour of pre-Inca ruins in the morning and wasn’t going to make it back to town in time to catch his 6:00 bus. This intersection is the midway point between ... read more

Note that as is with anything, words can not discribe an experience, that goes double for this blog as I try my best to remember and recollect all that I have experienced while in the Chachapoyas area. My first memory of Chachapoyas is arriving in the morning before any light and talking to the kid who walked me to my hostal about the area, and hearing for the first of many times how safe and tranquil the Chachapoyan streets are at all hours. Needless to say this is a good sign, and the fact that I stayed at the nicest hostel I have been in for half the normal price was also a perk. Of course coming in the low season also can backfire, since this means lots of rain, but what is a jungle trek ... read more

Tatatam, qui l'aurait cru lustucru? Salut tous les gens!! Et voilou je me lance à mon tour dans un blog, après moultes réflexions car ce n'est pas rien quand même!! Alors je tiens à vous prévenir que je ne suis pas sûre de tenir le coup, mais je vais essayer! C'est vrai que c'est une chouette idée, autant pour moi que pour vous, alors c'est parti! Enfin ca fait 2 mois que je suis partie déjà... Je vous évite le résumé de ce qui s'est passé jusque là hein...? Donc sur la route de l'Equateur (j'espère y arriver un jour...hi), me voilou à Chachapoyas, en pleines montagnes nord-péruviennes. Car voilà, je voulais au départ tout simplement remonter la côte jusqu'à la frontière, mais après une semaine passée à Huanchaco me saisi un besoin de nature ... read more