Between Cali and the Ecuadorian border we happened to stop at two very different but equally interesting places: Caldono and Ipiales. Caldono is a pueblito midway between Cali and Popayán, about an hour into the mountains and away from the main highway, along a dirt road that was in the process of being tarmaced for the first time when we arrived. After jumping off the minivan at the turning to Caldono, we got into the back of a truck carrying locals to and from the numerous little towns, villages, and farmsteads dotting the mountains. It took an hour to travel the 15km to Caldono. The town itself is comprised of a number of residential streets shooting from the central square as well as a few small shops, restaurants, and market stalls - as well as absolutely
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