Piñan Lakes


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South America » Ecuador » North » Ibarra
August 1st 2008
Published: August 1st 2008
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Ok, I thought for a while whether I should post this or not. I know now all of you will think I am even more crazy than you already thought I am. But first read and then think about it and then maybe you don't find it that crazy any more.

I had been wanting to do that trek for a few months now and already in April had met the prospective guide, a national park ranger, who had been recommended by Patricio. However, in April he said the páramo was still too wet and suggested I call him again in June. We subsequently spoke a number of times, but the weather was always bad, or he did not have time. Since I was running out of time now, though, I finally decided to go by myself. Surely it is in general not ideal to go trekking alone. But then, I am convinced it is more dangerous travelling in a big city or on buses, then hiking in the paramo. Also, I was told there was mobil phone connection along the hike and in addition there are always other trekkers around. It also was an experience I wanted to make, to see whether I could cope myself with carrying all the stuff, with the logistics, with being by myself for a few days. And it worked.

I headed off from the tiny village of Iruguincho near Ibarra. The first day was really easy, as it was a very clear track to Laguna Yanacocha. I camped about half an hour before the Laguna. The only problem was that I could not find a river to take water from. Anyway, I still had enough water with me. The next morning I headed to the Laguna and met a group of a German couple and their 3 guides/cook. Apparently they had camped very near me, but we had not seen each other. We spent some good time together and they walked half way up with me to Yanaurcu de Piñan (4535m). They then decided to go back to their camp while I continued up to the summit. It was not that easy to find the way, as it was quite foggy. Unfortunately there also wasn't a good view from the top.

The next day I went up again, as I was trying to find a better way, as the day before there had not really been a proper path. And indeed after a long search I did find the proper path. I was also hoping for better weather, as it is supposed to be one of the best views of Ecuador from the top. And it did clear up slightly, but was very cold and windy up there.

The next day I went to Laguna Burrococha wich is nearby and was then following a description to hike out of the area. However, the description basically just said to head south, but that did not make any sense as there was lots of hills and canyons in between and no path at all. So I had to find my way through the thick paramo grass and swamps. It was not that easy, but I was rewarded by the overwhelming beauty of the landscape and the incredible vastness of the land. I did not see a soul for 3 days. Instead a number of condors, loads of bulls, a deer and skeletons of cows with vultures eating from them...

I finally went on a small road as I could not find any of the paths described in the hiking book. It was hours more on the road until I finally came across a house. And it turned out it was the office of the Ministerio del Ambiente (ministry of the environment) and I met my park ranger and his companero there. I chatted with them for a few hours and then they took me back to Iruguincho on their motorbikes (which saved me a couple of hours more trudging down the road)....


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2nd August 2008

nice pix of lakes and deer
SH Nice, very nice. I wanna pet a deer, too. Were you very cold there? Maybe I should unpack some shorts and T shirts and replace them with sweaters and earmuffs.
20th November 2008

Pretty
Hi, Thanks for your comment. Yes, it was pretty cold and rainy/foggy up there. I did not walk much in T-shirt, but more with thick fleece and jacket (good quality rain-proof jacket advisable). I have a very good sleeping bag, so I was never cold at night. Cheers Sonja

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