Reconnecting with Ecuadorian Friends

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October 3rd 2010

Saved: December 5th 2014

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Sra Sare

Celebrating Shana

To commemorate the 40th anniversary of Shana's arrival in Ecuador, we had a ladies' lunch. In back, Susy & Sue, front Gitte, Annie & Shana

After nearly 2 months away, it was great to get back "home" and reconnect with friends in the mountains and on the coast. We gathered a group of expat ladies who have been in Ecuador for years and years to celebrate Shana's 40th anniversary here. A few of these gals I had known back in the 1980's when I was working at the American School in Quito. It was fun to catch up on our respective lives and compare what we'd each been doing in the intervening years.

Arriving on the coast I went to visit Freddy and his young family. This is the waiter from Mandala whom I helped out when his very pregnant wife needed a FAST drive up to the clinic in Jipijapa. As you can see from the photo, we made it in time for Frixon to be born in an emergency caesarean. I also met up with my friend Margarita who, well into her 80's, just began a new career working with kids who have learning disabilities. She has a condo 4 hrs north of me on the coast, so she and I met halfway in Manta

Meeting Margarita in Manta

This amazing woman is in her 80's and recently started a new career! We met halfway to visit the archaeological museum and have lunch.

to check out the newly renovated museum and try a new place for lunch. She is such an amazing woman - so sharp and upbeat - a real inspiration!

I caught up with my friend Beatriz and her family -- they're always inviting me to have lunch at their home -- usually whatever Papa Fernando caught that morning! Beatriz and I went to Playa de los Frailes in the National Park and hiked up to the Mirador Lookout Point. WOW! Amazing views of one of the most spectacular pieces of coastline in Ecuador. It had been cool and drizzly by me, but less than a half hour away we had a warm, sunny day. The dips and bends in the coastline and the mountains make for varied microclimates. I also visited the little school I have been helping and I had fun teaching the kids some songs and poems.

Ecuadorian friends from the Andes came down to see the ocean for the first time in their lives. Paulino is the president of the community where I work with the Engineers

Freddy, Frixon & Mercedes

Here's the family I rushed to the hospital in Jipijapa for the baby's emergency C-section arrival. As you can see, all are doing well!!

Without Borders, and his wife Elvia is our cook when we stay in the village. They left the kids with his mother and took the bus down from Quito for a delayed honeymoon! I had invited them down the last time I was up in Malingua Pamba and told them if they got themselves down to the coast, the rest was on me. I was amazed and thrilled that they actually came!! I rented one of my smaller cabanas for them, fixed them some meals at my place and took them out to nice restaurants a couple of times.

It was really fun to observe Paulino's amazement as he watched the waves roll in. When we visited the fish market in Puerto Lopez he had dozens of questions for the local fishermen. While we were watching they hauled in nearly a hundred sharks - which amazed me too! Paulino wanted to know if the waves come crashing to shore all night, if there are waves in the middle of the ocean as well, how they form, and much more! Elvia was entranced by the little crabs and snails scurrying

Machalilla National Park Overlook

A lovely picnic at Los Frailes beach with Beatriz. We climbed up to the Mirador look-out point with breathtaking views below.

at the water's edge was the tide went out. She scurried after them in fascination! Both were awed by the quantity of food that comes from the sea! They have to struggle to scratch a living out of steep fields of overworked soil in the mountains, yielding small potatoes and a few fava beans.

Alas, Paulino and Elvia's visit was all too short. I was soon back to giving English lessons in Puerto Lopez, visiting with local friends here on the coast, and sprucing up my cabana for some potential buyers who are coming to rent for a few months while they decide. (They actually arrived a couple of days ago and their computer was stolen from the bus they took up the coast...vendor kids switching out bags....great first impression....not!) I tooks some long walks along the beach, often following the same route that Chaco and I used to take thru town. As I strolled the coast, remembering how Chaco would leap and play and chase sticks, I found myself crying and mourning my sweet baby -- still more than a year after he went to doggie heaven.

Fish Market in Puerto Lopez

Both Paulino and Elvia were awed by the amount of fish brought to shore. Paulino had tons of questions for the local fishermen.

My friend Lupe came down from Quito and we took a week's driving adventure heading north up the coast. Whenever I'm in Quito, she takes me on excursions to waterfalls and hot baths that foreigners seldom hear about. Now it was my turn to share with her my favorite coastal spots, and together we discovered some new ones! We spent the first night in Bahia de Caraquez and then took the car ferry across to continue northwards. It may be the last time I cross on the Gabarra Ferry since the new bridge is set to be inaugurated later this month!

We spent the next night at Rio Muchacho Organic farm, enjoying the peaceful birdsong and the views of the river from our rustic cabana. We tried to drive upriver to the waterfall, but the road was in terrible condition and the river crossings became more and more precarious. I didn't want to risk getting stuck in the mud, so we turned back and arrived at the farm just in time for a delicious vegetarian supper with all the

On the Beach with Elvia

So much fun to share her first beach visit with Elvia! I've stayed at her home in the mountains many times, along with the volunteer engineers.

volunteers who were working there. It was great to catch up with my old friend Nicola, the owner of the farm. It was a peaceful night, until about 4 a.m. when a mama pig went into labor -- I was amazed at how strong and sturdy the newborns are - shiny pink piglets, just hours old and already scuffling and tussling to nurse.

We continued northward along the coast, stopping to meet a woodworker named Rycardo. He showed us the "crocodile" drum he'd carved from a hollowed out tree trunk and took us down to his riverside workshop where he shared with us his projects, his plans and his dreams. Again I was struck by the powerful positive force of an encounter with someone who is totally passionate about what he does! We continued onward to Coco Solo, following a stretch of road I had not yet explored. Heading out from Pedernales, Cojimies is at the tip of a spit of land that juts along the coast. Halfway up the peninsula, 20 miles from the towns on either side, is a rustic guest house that has been there for

Eating Ceviche

It was a chilly day, but we ate at a beachfront restaurant. They both loved their first taste of ceviche fish cocktail.

over 25 yrs. I had heard about it from so many friends, all of whom said I MUST go check it out before the big hotels arrived to ruin that stretch of coastline. They haven't arrived (yet) and I loved the long stretch of deserted beaches, walking for hours at sunset and sunrise, collecting some of the most amazing seashells I've seen anywhere in the world!

After checking in at Coco Solo, we continued on up the road to the sleepy fishing village of Cojimies. We went in search of some snacks to tide us over thru the evening. We ate some yummy fresh coconut ice cream. warm bread from the bakery, and locally made cheese (aka "squeaky" cheese because it's curd-like texture makes your teeth squeak). The entire town is about 4 blocks square, no paved streets - just rutted sand. The people were friendly and helpful and there were some great photo opportunities (see below). The following day we visited another fishing village, Mompiche, but weren't nearly as captivated. The international, all-inclusive DeCameron Resorts have built a 250 room hotel there. We wanted to check it out,

Shoes Off - Toes in the Surf

I finally got them to take off their sock and shoes and roll up their pants to enjoy wading in the water's edge.

just to see - but they wouldn't let us in. They fired all sorts of questions at us, and determining that (1) we weren't married (2) we didn't have kids (3) we weren't travelling with men (4) my pick-up truck is old and ratty- so deciding that we weren't prospective timeshare buyers and turned us away. I DID write to the marketing hdqtrs to complain about the way we were treated, but of course I have not heard back from them.

Continuing northward we made our way to Playa Escondida - one of my favorite places of all times. Chaco's family still lives there and it was great to cuddle with his Daddy Tiaoni and his big brother Suleiman who looks almost exactly like he did before he died. Chaco's Mommy joined him in doggie heaven last month. Lupe and I explored the beach there - caves and archways and tide pools. We stayed a few days, taking long walks, reading, and relaxing. I enjoyed reconnecting with Judith, the owner. There were no other guests, so we had plenty of time to just hang out. Alas, our week of exploring came

Whale Watching with Fernando

I was seriously seasick as I took this photo of Paulino and Alex, with Captain Fernando and Beatriz in the background. We saw a few whales in the distance.

to an end and I took Lupe back down to Manta to catch her flight to Quito. We had only taken day trips together before, and it was really great to share a longer time together. We had a good travelling rhythm - both of us are early risers, share a similar love of adventure. Who knows, we may explore more of South America together at some point.

Now I am back at Mandala, working as manager for just over a week to fill in until the full-time manager arrives from Argentina. The people are wonderful but the work is just as exhausting as I remember it. I really feel my age (and weight) as I spend all day on my feet, running up and down stairs, multi-tasking, fielding questinos and dealing with problems. I spent a few days helping take care of my friend's dalmation (damnation!!) What a high-strung breed that is! The four Mandala dogs are so "chill" by comparison....even 10 month old Carbon who is big as a pony! So, what's next for Jill? That remains to be seen. In a week I head up to the mountains

Lupe at Saiananda

Part botanical garden, part zoo - Saiananda is a guest house which espouses the philosophies of Sai Baba.

and will be house-sitting and pet-sitting in Banos until the end of the year. AFter that, I'll see how my life unfolds. Thanks for reading!!

P.S.
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