September 2, 2009 At dawn, we awake to the sound of rustling, grab some coffee and get in our SCUBA gear. We climb into the Ponga boat and set off toward Darwin’s Arch. We roll off the ponga backward, hit the water and once the bubbles clear, 70 to 100 ft visibility opens before our eyes. Schools of tropical fish are weaving in and out of the rugged volcanic rocks that have deep crevasses, perfect for the long, sharp toothed moray eels who watch closely as we settle down onto the reef. We drop down to the next shelf, 60 feet deep and we look out into the deep blue ocean. Then they begin to take form. First one, than another, Hammerhead Sharks gliding gracefully, deep in the water. Two turn and start moving upward over
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