Sunburn and Chills


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South America » Ecuador » Centre » Quilotoa » Chugchilan
October 28th 2012
Published: October 30th 2012
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The drive to Chugchilan took us back through Banos and along the winding roads. It was slow going as the roads are dirt tracks, really only wide enough for one vehicle and tight turns that had to be navigated slowly to ensure that we didn’t go over the side…… it did mean that we got a chance to test out one of the trucks features that we couldn’t on the newer faster roads – the roof top seats.



Sitting on top of the truck, sun in your face, beer in hand is definitely the way to travel!

Passing through small rural towns on the route to Chugchilan brings a chance to stop, stretch the legs and some much needed relief to all the sitting, buying empanadas from the local bakery and a football for when we hit the beach, the locals come out to stand and stare. Ecuadorians so far have been an amazingly friendly bunch, the Spanish here is spoken slower than in the rest of South America so it’s easy to understand and practice. I’ve been trying to spend some time each day learning Spanish, its slow going but my understanding is definitely improving!



As we wind higher into the mountains the altitude starts to make itself known, everything becomes that little bit harder as your body struggles to take in enough oxygen. A quick run round the block leaves me gasping from breath with the blood pounding in my ears.

Arrived in Chugchilan around 2pm, checking into a cute little hostel where a lazy afternoon was spent catching up on some reading and hammock swinging in the afternoon sunshine. At just over 4000 feet its really warm in the sunshine – pink noses all round – but as soon as the sun sets its chilly and out come the thermals! But blankets are piled up on the beds ready for later and there’s a bar downstairs selling large beers at $1.50 a go so I’m a happy girl.

The hostel served up an amazing 3 course dinner of traditional local food, the red wine flowed and the games room was found! Many games of pool, table tennis and foosball ensure an enjoyable evening, lots of laughing and off to bed with my many blankets.

As the sun sets the cloud settles in on the valley below, it really does feel like you’re cut off from the rest of the word up here.

Morning brings the reason for the visit – trekking the Quilotoa loop.



After a hearty breakfast – the altitude doesn’t seem to be affecting my appetite! – of fruit salad, rolls, eggs and coffee its off to the Volcano.

Whilst the volcano is still active, its not erupted for 800 odd years, last time it erupted it left behind a emerald green lagoon which was the first call on the hike today. Hiking down into the crater was exhilarating, if a little hairy at times, the sun was shining, altitude isn’t an issue when walking down, the views amazing and if it wasn’t for the loose rocks and sand that caused your feet to constantly slide away from you it would have been a lovely gentle stroll. On reaching the lagoon it was time for a dip, well a paddle. The water was freezing and the base of the crater was in the shade so I wimped out and just stuck my toes in the water. The water is said to have healing properties, each year all the farmers in the area bring their flocks to drink from the lagoon to ward off any bad luck and illness. I’m hoping my paddle will have the same effect!



Unfortunately what goes down must come up…. The climb back up was steep and slow. This is where you really start to feel the altitude and every step leaves for gasping for breath, fortunately you recover quickly and with short but often breaks we gradually made it back to the top.



Sitting in the sunshine back at the top of the crater, devouring our packed lunch and feeling smug that with all the hard work we’d completed, the local guide we’d hired for the day reminded us that whilst the mornings activities were a nice side line, the reason for the visit was still to come, trekking the Quilotoa loop back to the hostel. Whilst less than 20k, it consists zig zagging back and forth over the side of the volcano and crossing a couple of valleys. So with the sun on our faces and packs on our backs we set off.



The landscape is spectacular and constantly changing, in the course of the hike we passed through lush green farm land, barren and dusty desert, coarse fields filled with bracken and even an pine forest, the floor coated in pine needles which gave the distinct feeling of wandering into the alps. Our local guide turned out to be not so much local or a particularly good guide, twice we were lost, both times realising his mistake after we’d hiked into a valley, meaning retracing our steps back up the steep paths, and adding nearly 2 hours onto the already long day. But despite the hills, the sun burn, the freezing temperatures as the sun dropped its definitely one of the best walks I’ve ever completed. We arrived back at the hostel, after hiking for 7 hours, tired, dusty and ready for a beer. After a lovey meal, some wine and a very hot and long shower it was time to hit the hay – at 9pm!

Leaving at 6am tomorrow for a long drive to Cuenca for some city time!



Peace and love xxxx


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Quilotoa is a water-filled caldera and the westernmost volcano in the Ecuadorian Andes.
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Getting ready to hike down to the lake
Clouds settle in the valley belowClouds settle in the valley below
Clouds settle in the valley below

The way home lies this way...


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