Escaping a landslide on the Quilotoa Loop

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Day 30: Tuesday 29th July - A close escape from a landslide

As part of my acclimitisation programme for climbing Cotapaxi I've been recomended to travel the Quilotoa loop as its between 3000-4000m above sea level. The ride around the loop is supposed to be through spectacular scenery. My destination today is Chugchilan which is half way around the loop. Getting there is half the problem, there is only one bus per day in either direction around the loop and it leaves around noon from Latacunga which is a 2 hour bus journey south of Quito. I make it to Latacunga in time to catch my bus, and while I'm waiting I get talking to an American guy who's heading to the same place I am.

The bus journey is certainly eventful. About 3 hours in to our journey, just after Sigchos and with around another hour to travel we are stopped in our tracks by a landslide which has blocked the road in front of us. Half of the people on the bus get off whilst the bus driver attempts to get through before getting stuck. He manages to dig himself out though before undertaking probably the best piece of driving I've ever seen............... He gets his bus through the landslide, around a tight corner and through at least a foot of mud. I can't believe he doesn't get stuck or even tip the bus. Meanwhile, those who got off the bus have to walk about 200m to get back on the bus. Being an impatient soul I just splodge striaght through the mud. The other 10 or so people have to wait in turn to pass a small area at the side of the road which isn't deep in mud. Unfortunatley while they are waiting another landslide hits. It misses them marginally, although they are showered with mud and small rocks. The American guy I've just met (Hardeep) is cut and grazed but it could have been much worse if it had happened a minute earlier.

We board the bus, shaken but alive and kicking and arrive at Chugchilan at around 4pm. The scenery over the last section of the journey is spectacular. In Chugchilan I'm staying at the Black Sheep Inn which I've heard good reports of in the UK press. Its an ecologically friendly ecolodge.....vegetarian meals, composting toilets, creates a lot of its own energy etc. After puttting our bags down head out for a walk along the ridge above the Black Sheep Inn for an hour.

Day 31: Wednesday 30th July - Lake Quilotoa

Today 4 of us staying at the BSI are going to hike back from Lake Quilotoa. We get a pick up truck to take us there to cut down the hike...it takes an hour to get there but its not a chore as the scenery is again spectacular. Lake Quilotoa doesn't disappoint, its waters are bluey-green I guess a result from volcanic minerals in the water. The lake is a volcanic crater lake and is 500m deep. We walk around the lake for an hour or so before hiking the 4 hours back to Chugchilan. The hike takes us between 3000-4000m altitude, passing through some amazing scenery and is certainly a good warm up for Cotopaxi.

The company on the evening is again good, one of the best things about my stay has been the people. I can thoroughly recommend the Black Sheep Inn - if you like hiking its in an ideal location. I spend the evening agonising about which transport option to take with regard to leaving Chugchilan. The cheapest is the bus (only bus of the day) which leaves at 4am (not appealing), the easiest is a shared truck with an Australian guy, Tim (expensive so not appealing). In the end opt for neither, a couple offer us a ride in the back of their pickup for a small amount and they aren't leaving until 9am so I will again be able to enjoy the morning view from the Black Sheep Inn, which is definitely worth missing the 4am bus for even though its the cheapest option.

I've been travelling a month now and I would say that my few days on the Quilotoa Loop have been my favourite so far. Its unexpected, but the scenery, the location and the accomodation can't be faulted.

Day 32: Thursday 31st July - Finishing the Quilotoa Loop

Riding in the back of a pick up truck to complete the Quilotoa loop is a joy. The scenery on the Southern part of the loop is even better than that on the North and riding in the back of a pick up truck for 3 hours is a lot of fun. The Australian guy from the BSI jumps in to, so the views and company are both good for the ride back to Latacunga. We stop off at Lake Quilotoa on the way back, and because its particularly sunny today the Lake is even more beautiful. I can see the Illiniza's in the distance, the Northern peak I will be climbing tomorrow.

Getting to the hostel in Cotapaxi National Park from Latacunga is a bit of a disaster. I know the hostel is just of the Panamerican highway which is the busiest road in South America, but my directions are contradictory. Get dropped off at the Southern Entrance (km 44) to Cotapaxi Park and after walking 3km uphill with my backpack realise this isn't right. Jump on a bus which I then get of at Machachi (km 21) when I realise I've gone too far. Get on another bus and this time get off at the right place near to km 34 where the hostel is a 20min walk off the highway. Chill out before the climb watching a movie.

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