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Published: April 4th 2010
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After our sad goodbyes at El Arca and the kids’ program at Tena, we organized ourselves and our luggage, which is pretty minimal. We’re down to one backpack and one bag each. Can’t say we’d be able to dress up for a nice occasion, but we’re prepared for most other conditions. We visited the town of Misahaulli, which has a beach area, some rapids to play in, a rope swing, and lots of monkeys in the trees and around town. We declined all the offers to take a boat trip, as we knew we’d be doing that soon.
Which we did. We set out with a guide who has become our friend over the last month, and the first stage of our journey was in a motorized canoe. They are very long, and skinny wooden canoes with canopies, and can seat up to 16 people! Out on the river we went, watching for anacondas along the way. The evidence of farming started to drop away. The banana trees and cacao plants were replace with towering trees, vines, thick brush and plants on top of plants.
Then we had a unique experience. We stopped the boat to fell two balsa
trees. They’re amazing, at just 2 or 3 years old they’re 1 foot or more in diameter and 15 meters tall! This was no easy job, as the brush was thick, too thick for the trees to even fall down. Juan did most of the work with his machete, the rest of us did what we could to pull the tree down, strip the bark, chop it into 5 meter long sections and drag it to the beach to be crafted into a raft.
And then we were off, floating down the river, 6 of us. We took lots of time to swim in the warm gentle waters of the Ahuano river. We visited a museum showing various traps the locals use, had the traditional fish steamed in banana leaves, and carried on down the river to see the artist who carves figures out of balsa. We stayed at a lodge along the river that had running water, electricity and a good kitchen.
The next day was spent in the true primary jungle, where the plants and trees are like something out of Avatar. I’m sure the art work in Avatar is based on the Amazon. Every plant has use,
or an unseen property, like seeds you can paint with. Juan painted up the kids’ faces. Some trees can be scored to leak rubber, others medicinal “dragons’ blood” Everything seems to be good for the stomach or a headache. A few minutes work builds a strong basket from this certain kind of palm tree, strong enough to carry anything in. A different palm becomes emergency shelter when it’s woven, another one again is good for a roof for 10 or 12 years. Oh, and that palm we eat. We came across the tracks of a tapir, smelled the offensive odor of peccaries (bush pigs) and were warned the rain was coming by the toucan calls. The first warning was for a 10 minute downpour, but the second one was for an hour long thunderstorm of epic proportions, and the rest of the hike was spent emptying our boots, and following the river which replaced the trail. So warm, even soaking wet. We certainly found it an enchanting experience. Have to go deeper in one day to fish for piranhas!
And now we’re settled in our next town, the adventure capital of Ecuador. Banos is in a narrow steep valley
in the Andes. Just over a ridge is the towering active volcano Tungurahua. There are waterfalls and hot springs throughout the mountains. We’ve been for a lovely horseback ride that took us up to the volcano flows, but didn’t see the volcano due to cloud. The same ride included a ride in a chair seat over a gorge with an incredibly gorgeous, dangerous river below. On the other side was a quaint café, out in the middle of nowhere.
We’ve also visited the local zoo, or “animal prison” as the map calls it. It’s unique because it’s built into the complicated cliffs above a chasm, and each animal enclosure is a new design using the contours of the land. The jaguar and the condors are very impressive.
We’ve also been astounded by the events around Easter weekend. The town was overtaken one night by people, in the morning there were people walking and sleeping everywhere. Apparently there was one group that did a procession from a city 60km away, but the rest came in by bus and truck. Many of them are in felt hats, traditional blouses and skirts. Most of them are 4 foot to 4 ½ foot
tall!
There are many activities around town, and we’ve stopped into the cathedral several times to get a taste of the various services happening. And we also had a birthday celebration for Lisa, who turned 12. Tomorrow our volunteer work here starts. From 2:30 till 6:30 well be involved in the children’s activities here at the library, which includes reading, games, art work and other interactive activities. In the evening there are a wide variety of English classes that we can help with. We’re staying in an apartment above the library, and it has everything we need. The kids are thankful for the fact that we are in 3 bedrooms instead of one!
Well, we are happy and healthy, and looking forward to this next month!
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